Tank Levels Show Empty

[75thRanger]

I've had 4 Holiday Ramblers in the past 50 years and not one of the tank monitors was accurate. My Escape is no different. I think the fresh may be accurate.

I ignore monitors and empty the tank when full.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by 75thRanger

I've had 4 Holiday Ramblers in the past 50 years and not one of the tank monitors was accurate. My Escape is no different. I think the fresh may be accurate.

I ignore monitors and empty the tank when full.

The monitors on our Escape have been all over the map / erratic since day one ,so like many other piece of equipment on our Escape , I just ignore them like they’re not even there .No sense getting irritated, better to accept reality and go camping .

[75thRanger]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

The monitors on our Escape have been all over the map / erratic since day one ,so like many other piece of equipment on our Escape , I just ignore them like they’re not even there .No sense getting irritated, better to accept reality and go camping .

Here! Here!, or maybe Bravo?

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

...
If you can get the board it is an easy fix (5 minutes). If not, there will be a lot of splicing in a very tight area.

Carl,
I have a replacement board in my hands but don't see an obvious way to access the innards. The black plastic bezel seems to be firmly attached, however the front panel with the led labels appears to be loose - perhaps just needing a good pull?

Any suggestions would be helpful. The monitor is located above the fridge and access to the back-side looks to be near impossible.

--
Alan

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

Carl,
I have a replacement board in my hands but don't see an obvious way to access the innards. The black plastic bezel seems to be firmly attached, however the front panel with the led labels appears to be loose - perhaps just needing a good pull?

Any suggestions would be helpful. The monitor is located above the fridge and access to the back-side looks to be near impossible.

--
Alan

If you lift the top of the bezel gently (upward finger pressure), the front panel comes out with the circuit board. Might have to pry out with a jewelers screwdriver or the tip of a toothpick. I think I worked a fingernail or a tiny screwdriver behind the face which is attached by plastic prongs to the board. The key is to gently displace/deform the outer bezel. Unplug the board, separate the board from the front panel, attach the new board, put the plug back in the board, then hit the button to test and make sure it is fixed. Then gently snap the assembly back in.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

If you lift the top of the bezel gently (upward finger pressure), the front panel comes out with the circuit board. Might have to pry out with a jewelers screwdriver or the tip of a toothpick. I think I worked a fingernail or a tiny screwdriver behind the face which is attached by plastic prongs to the board. The key is to gently displace/deform the outer bezel. Unplug the board, separate the board from the front panel, attach the new board, put the plug back in the board, then hit the button to test and make sure it is fixed. Then gently snap the assembly back in.

Got it working!!! A new circuit board was "all" it took. Didn't need to spend a half day on my belly installing new Horst sensors after all. Oh well.

I've attached a photo of the front face with its single tab. As you said, push up on the black outer bezel and push down on the tab with a small screwdriver. It popped out and the circuit board is attached to the rear of the face plate with a couple of thumb tabs. Took about 30 seconds to replace.

Thanks,
Alan