Tire pressure

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Sounds good John . Since I had to handle both tires taking off and installing . Also picking up my D’s what a difference . Had my first flat on Carlisle’s in about 6 mo . Pat

ah, I only replaced our original Carlisles last year because they were 6 years old, and starting to look a little crispy.

[MyronL]

This is about a different kind of tire pressure.

What about changing a tow vehicle tire? This I think wouldn't happen to the trailer tires but, what if you get a flat on your tow vehicle when you’re out there in nowhere land?

In my yard yesterday my truck tire developed a slow leak. I ran over a construction screw in the driveway. Had to remove the tire and put on the spare. That’s when another problem developed. It’s not the first time. I unscrewed all lug nuts, jacked tire off the ground, but couldn’t get the tire off. Had this problem once before so I knew what had to be done. But still, don’t get why this happens. What is it after you remove all the lug nuts that makes a tire rim stick so outrageously firm to the truck disk housing that you must whale, truly whale, on that tire with a sledge hammer, to break that bond?

Is it some magnetic chemical stress adhesive that magically seals the metals together? Whatever it is believe me without applying some very serious prejudicial hammering, after 40 thousand miles, that tire will not be changed.

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by MyronL

This is about a different kind of tire pressure.

What about changing a tow vehicle tire? This I think wouldn't happen to the trailer tires but, what if you get a flat on your tow vehicle when you’re out there in nowhere land?

In my yard yesterday my truck tire developed a slow leak. I ran over a construction screw in the driveway. Had to remove the tire and put on the spare. That’s when another problem developed. It’s not the first time. I unscrewed all lug nuts, jacked tire off the ground, but couldn’t get the tire off. Had this problem once before so I knew what had to be done. But still, don’t get why this happens. What is it after you remove all the lug nuts that makes a tire rim stick so outrageously firm to the truck disk housing that you must whale, truly whale, on that tire with a sledge hammer, to break that bond?

Is it some magnetic chemical stress adhesive that magically seals the metals together? Whatever it is believe me without applying some very serious prejudicial hammering, after 40 thousand miles, that tire will not be changed.

Hi Myron
I’ve had wheels stuck on hub centric mounts a few times. The last one was on my Dakota at 6AM, out in the country at -6degrees F. But I knew what might and did work. I had it Jacked up and the lug nuts off, left rear wheel. I put the lug nuts back on and tightened them down as tight as I could with gloved hands. Lowered the jack and got it out of the way. Got in and started the truck and put it in reverse and then forward about three times. Got back out looked and could see the wheel center had broken loose. Jacked back up, loosened lug nuts and wheel came right off. I didn’t have my BFM with me so that was an option. In many years of driving I’ve done this a handful of times. Helped a couple other folks I came upon who had the problem too. Something I learned from my Dad.
Iowa Dave

[Jim Bennett]

Based on advice from my cousin, who was a Kal Tire service manager, and also from my current tire shop manager, I have always run ST tires at near maximum pressure, and have never had an issue with that.

Most charts from manufacturers giving pressures for various tire loads are a minimum you should run them at. ST tires are designed for stability using a pressure that keeps the sidewalls stiff. Too low of pressure will result in tire instability.

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Hi Myron
I’ve had wheels stuck on hub centric mounts a few times. The last one was on my Dakota at 6AM, out in the country at -6degrees F. But I knew what might and did work. I had it Jacked up and the lug nuts off, left rear wheel. I put the lug nuts back on and tightened them down as tight as I could with gloved hands. Lowered the jack and got it out of the way. Got in and started the truck and put it in reverse and then forward about three times. Got back out looked and could see the wheel center had broken loose. Jacked back up, loosened lug nuts and wheel came right off. I didn’t have my BFM with me so that was an option. In many years of driving I’ve done this a handful of times. Helped a couple other folks I came upon who had the problem too. Something I learned from my Dad.
Iowa Dave

When I added the Roadmaster Active Suspension to my F150 this spring I broke the passenger side wheel loose with much effort, but no amount of coaching would break the driver's side. I tightened those lug nuts finger tight and drove quite erratically for about a block before the wheel broke loose. If it happens again I will try the reverse - forward gear technique. I added an Anti-Seize Lubricant to the hub, hopefully they will be easier to remove when I rotate (or have a flat).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by tractors1

Biggest problem I see - curious what percentage of trailer owners actually bother to take their trailer, fully loaded for travel, to a scale and actually weigh it. I'd guess less than 10% can make the time to do it right.................

That is certainly an issue. The main reason for the common recommendation to run the maximum allowed inflation pressure is a set of assumptions that:

• trailers will be supplied with the smallest (because it's cheapest) tire adequate for the rated load,
• owners/operators will not manage or monitor the weight of the trailer, and
• owners/operators will not maintain the tire pressure

... so the safest approach is to just put as much air in as allowed on those rare occasions when pressure is checked. Even then, the trailer could easily be loaded over the GVWR and the GAWR, causing even a tire at sidewall maximum pressure to be overloaded.

None of these assumptions are correct for an Escape (which has more than adequate tires) owned by a forum member in this discussion (who is paying attention to pressures and loads).

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

I’m not especially aware of different kinds of commerce or weighing opportunities outside of the Midwest but the CAT scale system that’s available at truck stops in the Midwest and other scales “for pay” that are available at other truck stops throughout the country are one way to get things weighed. In addition in our area we can often get free weighing at rock quarries, grain elevators, and landfills.

In Alberta, British Columbia, and some other areas, the government-run highways scales used for commercial vehicle load limit enforcement are free to use for anyone who wants. I only use them when they are "closed" - meaning unattended and trucks are not required to stop - because they're not busy (I don't want to delay a trucker) and the scales are deliberately left on for people to use. I confirmed with the commercial vehicle enforcement branch that this was permitted, and it is welcome; they want everyone to be safe and legal.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

in the ST205/75R15 size our Escapes take, load range C tires are rated for 50 PSI max, D tires at 65, and E tires at 80 (I think). but our trailers only need range C weights, so even if you're running a D tire, you run it at the range C pressure as that corresponds with the max rated actual loads on the trailer.

if you look at the tire inflation charts, you'll see that at the range C weights, the D and E tires spec the same optimal pressure, they are range D because they *can* go heavier at 65 PSI.

Its the same thing with LT truck tires...

Where's the "Like" button?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Nindy

I thought about rotating a new Endurance spare. Maybe I will do that. Would I just keep moving them in a circle, driver to passenger to spare? Or do you keep them on their respective sides and rotate alternately with the spare??

If the wear is not even between the tires on the left and right sides, I would rotate them side-to-side. If it is even, it doesn't matter.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MyronL

I unscrewed all lug nuts, jacked tire off the ground, but couldn’t get the tire off. Had this problem once before so I knew what had to be done. But still, don’t get why this happens. What is it after you remove all the lug nuts that makes a tire rim stick so outrageously firm to the truck disk housing that you must whale, truly whale, on that tire with a sledge hammer, to break that bond?

This is most commonly a problem with aluminum alloy wheels on steel hubs. It's a corrosion issue.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Most charts from manufacturers giving pressures for various tire loads are a minimum you should run them at.

That's what all the load-inflation charts mean - ST or otherwise, from any tire manufacturer. The same thing exists for car and truck tires, but they are not widely published because the vehicle manufacturer publishes (and posts right on the vehicle) recommended (not minimum) pressures for each tire size available from factory... so people don't have to figure it out for themselves and don't need load-inflation tables.

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

ST tires are designed for stability using a pressure that keeps the sidewalls stiff. Too low of pressure will result in tire instability.

ST tires are no different from other tires - they are all stiffer with more pressure. If the pressure is high enough for the load, the tire is not unstable.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Bill and Earline

We still don't know what tires HARLEYRK has on the new 21. Hopefully we'll hear something before the 75 PSI beats his trailer to death.

Maybe somebody else with a new trailer can tell us about these new mystery tires.

I doubt we'll ever hear anything more from harleyrk... he started this thread 5 day ago and hasn't participated since.

As already suggested, 75 PSI is probably a misreading of the tire sidewall, since that's not a normal maximum inflation pressure for any load range or size of ST tire, and Escape would only likely provide ST tires.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I doubt we'll ever hear anything more from harleyrk... he started this thread 5 day ago and hasn't participated since.

Busy looking for the jacking point.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

That's what all the load-inflation charts mean - ST or otherwise, from any tire manufacturer. The same thing exists for car and truck tires, but they are not widely published because the vehicle manufacturer publishes (and posts right on the vehicle) recommended (not minimum) pressures for each tire size available from factory... so people don't have to figure it out for themselves and don't need load-inflation tables.


ST tires are no different from other tires - they are all stiffer with more pressure. If the pressure is high enough for the load, the tire is not unstable.

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Where's the "Like" button?

Yes. Where is the like button?

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

i run the tires 5 years without any rotations, then the best tire goes on the spare.

X2." Don't need no gobble de gook tire rotation!" Said the Grumpy Old Man- https://youtu.be/vYmA0zPiVHY

[Iowa Dave]

Sorry if my description was indecipherable. Seemed understandable to me and answered the question posed by the queen of the Torque Wrench. And a real nice person I’m proud to say I’ve camped with. ( I know, preposition at the end of a sentence gets a ruler across the knuckles)
Iowa (Words and Ideas by Guth) Dave

[Nindy]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Sorry if my description was indecipherable. Seemed understandable to me and answered the question posed by the queen of the Torque Wrench. And a real nice person I’m proud to say I’ve camped with. ( I know, preposition at the end of a sentence gets a ruler across the knuckles)
Iowa (Words and Ideas by Guth) Dave

Thanks, Iowa Dave, for all your information and the nice compliment! And I failed miserably in the last lug nut competition but I'll gladly retain that recognition as the first Royalty of Torque! Hope to camp with you someday soon.

Thank you, Brian, for your information as well. I always appreciate your knowledge. I appreciate everyone else too who contributes to our trailering well-being.