Toilet Supply Line Replacement Help

[canyonrider]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Yes. Just make sure you get the right length. 12” might be too close. 16” probably better.

Thanks, I think I'm going to give this a try myself. Stay tuned.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by canyonrider

Thanks, I think I'm going to give this a try myself. Stay tuned.

Go for it. If you follow my steps and use the materials I linked it will not be too difficult. Post here or PM me with any questions.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Thanks Jim for posting my pics . Pat

You are welcome and I learned about the more albums available button. I posted my first E19 mods in my albums but when I purchased again I just posted in the modifications pages for ease of use and continued with Escape Blackjack, Escape Prairie Schooner and Escape DeJa View.

[canyonrider]

Thread follow-up: repair complete and pressure tested, more or less per rubicon's helpful instructions (thanks!). Photos show the spot the original tubing split open (and yes, I re-caulked the area after I took the photo of the new hose).

Note that the steel hose is not the one in the Home Depot link above. Once I removed the toilet, I found that it requires a 1/2 inch fitting. This is actually a household faucet size, not the standard 7/8 toilet size. I also went with a 20-inch line to give more flexibility on where to install the shutoff valve and to avoid unnecessary tension/pressure on the blue pex line, but in hindsight 16-inch would have been fine. Thanks again for all the help and suggestions, really appreciate it.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by canyonrider

Thread follow-up: repair complete and pressure tested, more or less per rubicon's helpful instructions (thanks!). Photos show the spot the original tubing split open (and yes, I re-caulked the area after I took the photo of the new hose).

Note that the steel hose is not the one in the Home Depot link above. Once I removed the toilet, I found that it requires a 1/2 inch fitting. This is actually a household faucet size, not the standard 7/8 toilet size. I also went with a 20-inch line to give more flexibility on where to install the shutoff valve and to avoid unnecessary tension/pressure on the blue pex line, but in hindsight 16-inch would have been fine. Thanks again for all the help and suggestions, really appreciate it.

Excellent and much more reliable ! Pat

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by canyonrider

Thread follow-up: repair complete and pressure tested, more or less per rubicon's helpful instructions (thanks!). Photos show the spot the original tubing split open (and yes, I re-caulked the area after I took the photo of the new hose).

Note that the steel hose is not the one in the Home Depot link above. Once I removed the toilet, I found that it requires a 1/2 inch fitting. This is actually a household faucet size, not the standard 7/8 toilet size. I also went with a 20-inch line to give more flexibility on where to install the shutoff valve and to avoid unnecessary tension/pressure on the blue pex line, but in hindsight 16-inch would have been fine. Thanks again for all the help and suggestions, really appreciate it.

Nice work! That was my bad on the wrong connection size. It has been a while but I do remember now that it was a faucet connection size and not a standard toilet connection. Thetford Aqua Magic V install manual confirms 1/2”. You likely used something like this....

https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Plum...20-2/310336653

[canyonrider]

Ok, slight snafu. The fix worked well for several trips, but then this weekend had a leak at the threads where the new stainless line attaches to the toilet. I pulled the toilet and realized that I appeared to have threaded on the new line a bit crooked. This happened when heating up water in the water heater, so I'm assuming the pressure increase was too much for the connection.

Instead of trying to crank down and tighten the connection further, I completely unscrewed the line, thinking I would just try and reattach it on straight. But when I went to do so I found the plastic threads of the toilet valve stripped (or perhaps I stripped them when trying to reattach?), and couldn't reattach the supply line at all (luckily the shutoff valve did its job!).

So, questions:
(1) I'm assuming I need a new toilet valve assembly, right? (i.e., can't just obtain the threaded male fitting portion?)

(2) Is there any compatibility issue with threading on the stainless line/metal nut to the plastic fitting? In other words, did my poor threading job the first time cause the issue, or is there a fundamental issue with using metal female/plastic male fittings together?

Thanks again for any advice/suggestions.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by canyonrider

Ok, slight snafu. The fix worked well for several trips, but then this weekend had a leak at the threads where the new stainless line attaches to the toilet. I pulled the toilet and realized that I appeared to have threaded on the new line a bit crooked. This happened when heating up water in the water heater, so I'm assuming the pressure increase was too much for the connection.

Instead of trying to crank down and tighten the connection further, I completely unscrewed the line, thinking I would just try and reattach it on straight. But when I went to do so I found the plastic threads of the toilet valve stripped (or perhaps I stripped them when trying to reattach?), and couldn't reattach the supply line at all (luckily the shutoff valve did its job!).

So, questions:
(1) I'm assuming I need a new toilet valve assembly, right? (i.e., can't just obtain the threaded male fitting portion?)

(2) Is there any compatibility issue with threading on the stainless line/metal nut to the plastic fitting? In other words, did my poor threading job the first time cause the issue, or is there a fundamental issue with using metal female/plastic male fittings together?

Thanks again for any advice/suggestions.

Bummer. No compatibility issues with the metal female / plastic male fittings. This is done on conventional toilets all the time in homes. It seems as though you cross-threaded it badly and will likely need a new toilet valve assembly.

Since the threaded part is likely shot anyway you could try as a last resort putting some Teflon tape on the threads and forcing the female fitting on. You may be able to rethread a bit as you go and get it tight enough. The fitting type you are using is not sealing via the threads. You just need to get it tight enough to seal the inner rubber compression ring against the bottom of the plastic fitting.

[cpaharley2008]

Typical "Gumption Trap" scenario.........