Tongue Jack handle

[dannyh]

I ended up using a 3/4" head bolt and threaded a 3/4" nut up tight to the top, this gave me enough depth to hold the handle well. I Lined up both the bolt and nut and cut the thread just under the nut. Then did a tack weld to keep them both lined up together and then welded them to the top of the jack.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by dannyh

I ended up using a 3/4" head bolt and threaded a 3/4" nut up tight to the top, this gave me enough depth to hold the handle well. I Lined up both the bolt and nut and cut the thread just under the nut. Then did a tack weld to keep them both lined up together and then welded them to the top of the jack.

pictures please....

[Jubal]

My Cousin has owned and towed two 21' models of the Bigfoot TT. The first model did not have the storage box. The current model has the storage box and the tongue was extended 2' to accomodate it. He fells that both trailers towed the same. The only difference he notice was backing up the trailer into a short campsite.
Jubal

[dpiano]

Hi,
Here is the hitch handle fitting I made. Not pretty but it sure works great. The fitting is a standard 3/4" coupler with a short bolt screwed into the top end, and secured with jb weld. I drilled out the bottom end to go over the stub that the handle was attached to. I think I had to grind off the rivet that held the handle to the stub. I drilled a hole through the side of the coupler to match the hole in the stub, and ran a short bolt through it to secure the fitting to the stub. The coupler is easy to find in a hardware store.

[cpaharley2008]

Finally found a jack with a removable handle @ Etrailer, arrived today and with the handle off, my tailgate can now be opened.

[dpiano]

Here is what I like to do, which solves several problems:
I pop off the top of the jack, remove the spring clip, drive out the lock pin. I get a 5"x1/2" bolt, saw off the 1" of threads. I match the length of the crank relative to the lock pin hole, drill a hole in the 1/2" bolt to match. I install the bolt in place of the crank,nsert the lock pin, install the spring clip. I use a Ryobi 18V drill with a 3/4" socket, which fits both the bolt head and the stabilizer jacks. The jack has plenty of power to raise/lower the tongue and set the stabilizers. I keep a Ryobi 12V charger in the camper to keep the drill charged up. Works great!

[Eggscape]

Good if you need that little extra room to lower the tailgate and a bit more secure.

[cpaharley2008]

also a theft preventative, somewhat

[lostpond]

Good Morning,
I have a 17B on order.
Can anyone tell me the distance from the center of the ball hitch on the A frame to the front of the tongue jack"
I have a manual tongue jack, concerned about the tailgate having enough clearance to full open when hitched to camper.
Thanks Gary

[cpaharley2008]

You can always get a longer ball mount if it is close.

[lostpond]

I'm aware of that Thanks.
Would prefer to have the correct length before I pick up trailer.
Ya know.. peace of mind.

[TZBrown]

This is what I finally went to.
Able to clear the electric jack on a 21, 3/4 ton GMC PU
I don't use an equalizer

https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts...tch/80232.html

[cpaharley2008]

there is also JackEUp, I have one for my trailers https://jack-e-up.com

[lostpond]

Thanks for the replies.
I have a Tacoma and have been pulling a 17' Casita with no issues.
The length of the shaft from center point of pin to center point of ball is a little more than 10".
That leaves me with about 3 1/2" from tailgate (when down) to the front of the tongue jack.
Hope I'll have the same with the Escape.
Gary

[dpiano]

One way to eliminate the jack handle is to replace it with a 5” x 1/2 hex bolt. I use an 18V battery drill fitted with a 5/8” socket, which works on the hex bolt and stabilizers, eliminating the tedious hand cranking. I keep a 12V battery charger in the camper to keep the drill topped up.
Replacing the crank is simple:
Pop the top off the jack,
pry off the retaining spring
drive out the lock pin
slide the crank out, leaving the cog in place
cut threads off the hex bolt
drill hole in bolt for the lock pin
Insert the bolt and reassemble
Voila! you have an automatic tongue jack.

[lostpond]

Thanks for the reply.
Gary

[dkirk]

I replaced my draw bar with one two inches longer than stock. Not only does the tailgate open now, but the chance of the trailer storage box hitting the truck rear lights on sharp turns is reduced (don't ask). No change to the way the trailer feels under tow. Extended tow bar is rated 6000# tow and 600# pin weight. Safe enough for a 19.

[cpaharley2008]

Just be careful with extended draw bars, they do have a reduced capacity rating the longer they become.

[lostpond]

dkirk,
The bar I'm using is 10+" from center of pin hole to center of 2" ball.
Don't know what is considered "standard" length.
Has been perfect for my 17' Casita.
Plenty of room when tailgate is down.
NO problems when towing. (whipping/fish
tailing etc.)

[cpaharley2008]

According to this article 11" is standard, from pin to ball
Hitch Extension Length vs. Capacity

Receivers are rated using a standard ball mount length (approximately 11 inches)
An increase in extension length results in a REDUCTION in capacity
Exceeding the reduced capacity limits can result in bending the extension, failure of the receiver mounts due to increased torque and may cause the trailer to be disconnected from the truck causing a significant risk to yourself, your family and the general public.
Note: Does not apply to Torklift Superhitch or Reese Titan receivers.
Offered for information only. Always refer to OEM recommendations, specifications and limits.
Here is the source
Extended Hitch Calc