Top/Bottom halves seal

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Well, I'd be SOL then. The red does look nice.

Robert ! Really does pop ! Very nice ! Pat

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Robert ! Really does pop ! Very nice ! Pat

The color match was a happy accident Pat. We went with "dark red" graphics when we had the trailer built instead of the stock red. Turns out the red vinyl replacement band was almost spot on.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

The color match was a happy accident Pat. We went with "dark red" graphics when we had the trailer built instead of the stock red. Turns out the red vinyl replacement band was almost spot on.

Robert ,Linda said , your trailer looks rich looking ! The 2 choices for graphics were the Dark Red and Real Teal for us . We did go with the Real Teal but your trailer shows the Dark Red really would of been great too. Pat

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Understand the gap thing at the corners, however want to know more about bad rivets. From reading the comments from those who have spoken with ETI we should be hearing something from them soon.

Yeah, well, I was told about that on May 4th.

[nathanj04011]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

I've never really understood riveting on a belly band holder. It's a seamless shell after they glass the two halves together, so why drill holes all the way around and introduce the potential for leaks? I would prefer some sort of trim (like they use on automobiles) adhered with VHB. No holes, no chance of leaks, and a tight fit against the curves. I'm nitpicking of course, but still...

I was thinking the same thing. Obviously, Oliver saw no need to use the band when they first starting building their trailers, which to me is more appealing. The band does have a vintage feel about it, but the fit and finish seem to suffer because of it.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by nathanj04011

I was thinking the same thing. Obviously, Oliver saw no need to use the band when they first starting building their trailers, which to me is more appealing. The band does have a vintage feel about it, but the fit and finish seem to suffer because of it.

I like the finish, particularly since I "pioneered" the colored belly band insert. But fit wise, you're right. Why introduce a potential problem where none exists?

[War Eagle]

Not sure what ETI (or their supplier) would charge, but it would be relatively quick and easy to swap out that rubber belly band component for whatever color the manufacture is willing to make. Pull out old, slip in new, done.... (Murphy's Law, not withstanding.)

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

Not sure what ETI (or their supplier) would charge, but it would be relatively quick and easy to swap out that rubber belly band component for whatever color the manufacture is willing to make. Pull out old, slip in new, done.... (Murphy's Law, not withstanding.)

Well yeah, that's what I did. There are several threads on it but here's the first.

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8061

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Well yeah, that's what I did. There are several threads on it but here's the first.

Thanks for the link. Totally missed that discussion. Back during that time, we were more worried about selecting the big three "F's" (fabric, formica and flooring). We're perfectly happy with the standard black belly band, but since we chose silver graphics, it might be interesting in the future to see how a silver belly band would look.

[rbryan4]

Yep, I mentioned silver back when I swapped it out. Haven't seen any supplier who offers silver yet, but I think it would look super with silver graphics.

EDIT: I'll take that back! Here's one!

https://www.ebay.com/i/350944064657?...D1254004343898

[Lin]

We believe our camper was probably the origin of the rivet concern that has been mentioned in different strings. We may have been the only 2017 camper that had a rivet problem.
The good news is: the issue has been found and repaired on our camper, and ETI is checking rivets going forward.

Our 2017- 19 was completed the first week in January and shipped to us in April. It did sit outside at ETI for quite a few very wet months. When the camper was delivered it looked great, no signs of any moisture or leak issues. The second night we had the camper sitting in our driveway we had a huge rain storm with high wind. The next morning when I went to bring some items to the camper, the floor was flooded. There was also some water in the bathroom and water under the passenger side dinette window which was closed tight.

We had waited so long, and now our brand new camper was a soggy mess.

I was on the phone with Tammy ASAP. She was extremely supportive.
This was the same point in time that ETI was focused on a leak issue from the new refrigerator. So, that was the primary focus for the water on the floor.
I probably left the bathroom window slightly open, so that was (and still is) the working theory on the water in the bathroom.
The water issue under the dinette window was put aside while we focused on the leak(s) soaking the floor.

We did several water tests which indicated that we probably had 2 places the water was coming in on the driver side.
Reace was working diligently on figuring out a solution for the refrigerator leak. We followed his instructions for sealing the refrigerator screws. Water testing the refrigerator vent at that point indicated one of the leaks had stopped.

We designed our water tests to check every area the fiberglass had been cut in manufacturing (vents, refrigerator, furnace, windows...etc.). Lots of plastic, tape and water tests later it appeared our second leak was coming from the belly band on the DS about midway down the side. The water came in within seconds of turning the hose on that spot. Reace talked us through how to pull the black part of the belly band and test the rivets. He was very surprised. He had never experienced a leak like this. We can't explain why it had never leaked at ETI? One can only surmise the volume of rain and the direction of the wind played a role.
Sure enough, 2 rivets, exactly where we were getting a leak, had failed. We also had 1 failed rivet near the door (which did not leak at all when tested with the hose). We filled all 3 with silicone (yes we know we will need to check these seals going forward). After filling the failed rivets, the camper did not leak when tested with water on the driver's side.

This was also the time that there were some 2017 window leaks discussions showing up on the forum. Which brings us back to the water under the passenger side dinette window. So, we did more water testing to see if that was a 3rd leak issue. Yes, we also had the failed seals on several of our windows. Reace had the replacement windows and supplies shipped out. The repairs were made recently at our local RV center. We have not had a chance to do a final water test yet, but we are optimistic that our water issues have been resolved.

There certainly are learning curves with new models. We knew that going into our purchase and accepted the risks. ETI has worked through the issues and learned with us.

This is how we checked the rivets:
First, make a small metal "thingy" (as NWCat has called it). We used a large paper clip that we straightened out. It should be several inches long.
Pull out a couple of feet of the black band. It is pretty easy to do with your fingers. The metal belly band, that holds the black band in place, has pre-drilled holes in it. Not all of these holes have rivets. Using the metal "thingy", tap the holes that have rivets in them. The metal makes it easy to hear a distinctive metallic tap when you poke into the center that has a rivet properly in place. A failed rivet is fairly easy to detect. There is no metal sound when tapping and the paper clip goes deeper indicating the rivet isn't present. If this happens, you can also potentially feel the insulation on the inside of the camper wall. When you have finished checking that section, replace the rubber part by pushing it back into place. Then move onto a new section. It was suggested that working a few feet at a a time makes it easier to put the black band in place without bumps. If you have some masking tape on hand, you can use it to remember where you are working and mark any failed rivets.
From our experience:
-Not all failed rivets will leak.
-It might take a specific circumstances, to cause a leak through a failed rivet.
-A failed rivet in the belly band is not a structural concern
-A leak is definitely a problem.
-A dry camper beats a soggy camper any day

Happy camping.
Linda

[Kountrykamper]

Linda, Nice write up and explanation of the rivet issue.

Thanks!

[gocamp]

It begs the curious question, Did your pop-up trailer ever leak Lin? Appreciate all your info you shared and taking the time to type it up.

[Iowa Dave]

When I stopped at ETI after the appreciation rally so they could install a power bathroom fan and vent, they removed the vinyl belly strip, checked the rivets, reinstalled the strip. No leaks before, no bad rivets including the ones I replaced after a magpie committed suicide in a most unsavory way at 67 miles an hour. And no leaks now. No charge and a free left over T Shirt, now how you gonna beat that? Hey, pass me the Kool Aid.
Dave

[Lin]

Originally Posted by gocamp

It begs the curious question, Did your pop-up trailer ever leak Lin? Appreciate all your info you shared and taking the time to type it up.

We had 12 years with our Fleetwood Tacoma, and 5 years with a Coleman Santa Fe pop-up with 0 leaks along the way!
Ironically, we were drawn to a fiberglass camper because they are so water tight!
Assuming we are dry going forward, we love our 19.

[nathanj04011]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Hey, pass me the Kool Aid.
Dave

You've already drunk it!

[Bobbito]

I appreciate that it is possible to have leaks in an Escape, but I thought it far less likely and less devastating if it occurs. A stick built's stress points, where walls meet floor and roof, are common problem areas. All the leaks in our Nash occurred at these joints.
I also think that a leak in an Escape is much easier to detect. Very slow leaks wet the insulation in the walls of our Nash and of course the double wall construction trapped it, resulting in the wood rotting. The end result was our trailer lasted only 12 years before being destroyed by leaks.
Am I correct in believing my Escape will not be destroyed by leaks should they occur? Also has anyone had a leak that went undetected long enough to cause serious damage?
Bob K

BTW ETI checked our trailer for missing rivets last month during a stop there and we were okay.




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[gocamp]

"has anyone had a leak that went undetected long enough to cause serious damage?"

many molded fiberglass examples at FGRV forum, scamp bellyband leak (Yes behind the fiberglassed belly seam), Behind the wall insulation (unseen) down to the wood floor ETC. Glad to hear your rivets were ok.

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by Lin

We believe our camper was probably the origin of the rivet concern that has been mentioned in different strings. We may have been the only 2017 camper that had a rivet problem.

Thanks for posting, Linda, about your trailer. I do remember Nigel telling me there was a trailer that had leaking problems, so they were checking all trailers that came in to the factory for problems with rivets. He did say they would be sending out an email about this.

Am I the only one thinking that ETI should have emailed and/or mailed owners after they discovered the problem with Linda's trailer? That way owners could take it to ETI for checking if possible or do it themselves? Not every owner is on this forum. And even if they were, it's quite easy to miss important information if you're not reading every single thread every single day. I know some of you do, but not everyone does. Not should they be expected to.

Originally Posted by Bobbito

Am I correct in believing my Escape will not be destroyed by leaks should they occur? Also has anyone had a leak that went undetected long enough to cause serious damage?

I don't know about destroyed, but I can imagine there would be problems with mold later on. Warped floors. Warped walls. All sorts of problems. Yet another reason ETI should have notified owners of a potential source of leakage once they knew about it.

[Bobbito]

How would moisture cause the fiberglass walls to warp?


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