Torque wrench question

[John in Santa Cruz]

B&D had such a horrid reputation after selling a lot of cheap junk in the 80s, that they couldn't sell their otherwise fine 'pro' line of power tools, so they rebranded them DeWalt (who was originally strictly a maker of contractor grade radial arm saws).

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Black and decker were less expensive and great tools. Had a Black and Decker jig saw that was a workhorse and survived for many years . You wouldn’t believe what it went through . Pat

Taking a photo of the old drill reminded me of the time that I almost threw it in the garbage can.

I was fiberglassing in a center board trunk in the first sail boat I ever built. There was a long slot opening in the bottom of the hull. The next day I went out and much to my horror saw the drill laying on the ground under the hull. Resin had drained out and put a thick coating on it including running in beside the trigger.

I whacked, scraped and pried off the heavy coating of resin. Pulled the trigger and much to my surprise it ran just fine.

Ron

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Taking a photo of the old drill reminded me of the time that I almost threw it in the garbage can.

I was fiberglassing in a center board trunk in the first sail boat I ever built. There was a long slot opening in the bottom of the hull. The next day I went out and much to my horror saw the drill laying on the ground under the hull. Resin had drained out and put a thick coating on it including running in beside the trigger.

I whacked, scraped and pried off the heavy coating of resin. Pulled the trigger and much to my surprise it ran just fine.

Ron

Yup had very good luck with that tool I had too ! Pat

[C&G in FL]

First and foremost, my opinion only based on what I have been told by a recently retired tool salesman and two people responsible for the tool section at Lowe’s. Other’s take on this may be different.
Anyway, I was told to avoid DeWalt because the quality has gone downhill in recent years. I still have a Porter Cable metal bodied circular saw that belonged to my dad. He used it over the years including the construction of a camp that later became our full-time home. The camp was built in 1950, making the saw at least 70 years old. Would I buy a Porter Cable product today? No, I had a PC battery powered drill that had a hammer setting for drilling concrete. It died, and it wasn’t the battery that died. Now, if I have to replace a power tool, my first choice is Milwaukee.

[Iowa Dave]

Back in the day (before internet) I never did a lot research when buying tools. Usually “asked the man who owned one” and let guide my purchase. Also watched the use and abuse tools got where I worked and let that guide my choices. In cordless tools I’ve had good luck with Milwaukee. I have some Porter Cable corded tools, that have been good and a couple Bosch Routers. In hand tools I like SK but if I had the money I’d buy some Wright wrenches they are nice. My torque wrench is a 30-150 lb. Proto. I’m still buying things once in a while but not like I used to. Those old Craftsman sets made in USA were hard to beat. I have a few of them and keep close track on them. Everybody has their favorites and anyone can get a lemon but by and large, in my opinion, most of the stuff out there today is pretty good considering the number of hours I actually use them compared to commercial use. I never buy the extended warranty it might run out before I’ve used something over a handful of times.
YMMV

[John in Santa Cruz]

as of 2005, Milwaukee is a brand and subsidiary of Techtronic Industries, a Chinese company, along with AEG, Ryobi, Homelite, Hoover, Dirt Devil, and others.

[PleinAirCedar]

Thanks everyone for the input! I got the HF click torque wrench and extension part. With coupons (thanks for those suggestions, too!), it cost under $17. However I did mess up my breaks on the driver's side, seems like driving off pavement caused some rocks to make small dents on the metal wheel of the breaks. I don't know what its called. I was camping at the Colorado National Monument when I noticed the noise the break was making and when I stopped, I smelled a burning odor.
I took it to Centennial RV center in Grand Junction. They pulled the wheel and showed me the damage. Because I am getting an AC put in in November, they didn't charge me for fixing the brake wheel. Now no noise and no smell. Big shout out to Troy in Service for helping me out at spur of the moment.
I will torque the wheels next trip out in about 2 weeks to even a more remote location in the hinterland of Utah!

[Iowa Dave]

I have a very good long term relationship with a Milwaukee dealer in my home town. They are an authorized repair shop and any time I’ve had the slightest trouble, even when it was my fault, they took care of me. They charge me but always very reasonable. I’ve done business there since 1985. No super deals or free shipping etc, just good old fashioned service, friendly faces and a new calendar in November or so. Their flyer, regardless of the product line featured honestly reflects the price off compared to what it was before the sale. I just got done setting 18 3/8” Redheads in 22 year old concrete with my corded hammer drill. It’s a Milwaukee from about 30 years ago. The only thing I hurt were my ears, should have worn hearing protection. Last week used a couple other power tools. So it’s just good to have something that works well and if they do totally go south, I get them fixed or get a new one.
Iowa Dave

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by PleinAirCedar

... the metal wheel of the breaks. I don't know what its called.

presumably, you're talking about the brake drum, this the part that the wheel is bolted onto, and that turns, the brake itself is inside the drum... in the attached picture, the drums are on top, showing the inside of the drum, and the brakes themselves are on the bottom, as seen from the back side of the brakes...

[Brian B-P]

Stanley Black & Decker owns the Stanley, Black+Decker, DeWalt, and Porter-Cable brands (among others). DeWalt and Porter-Cable products are produced by the DeWalt division.

Sometimes brand differences are just colours and labels, sometimes they indicate real differences in design and construction (even if two brands come out of the same factory), and sometimes they really are separate. It takes a forensic study to determine which is the case for most power tools.

There is enough confusion in this industry that more than one brand (perhaps every brand) claims to have invented the portable circular saw. Does it matter any more?

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Back in the day (before internet) I never did a lot research when buying tools. Usually “asked the man who owned one” and let guide my purchase.

Unfortunately for the tool shopper, that man may own a tool of a different design and made by a different company in a different factory than the tool of the same brand that you can buy now.

[johnnyv]

13/16 is a spark plug socket.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by johnnyv

13/16 is a spark plug socket.

heh, if find a suitable spark plug socket and my deep sockets are AWOL, I've used said spark plug sockets for lotsa jobs.

6 sided sockets are so much better than 12 when you wanna put the torque down or its a funky fastener...

[UncleTim]

Originally Posted by PleinAirCedar

Thanks everyone for the input! I got the HF click torque wrench and extension part. With coupons (thanks for those suggestions, too!), it cost under $17. However I did mess up my breaks on the driver's side, seems like driving off pavement caused some rocks to make small dents on the metal wheel of the breaks. I don't know what its called. I was camping at the Colorado National Monument when I noticed the noise the break was making and when I stopped, I smelled a burning odor.

I was in the B loop of the monument last week and I was watching all the RVs negotiate the far point of the B loop. Most trailers went deep into the rut and stayed there until the road straightened. Happened several times in the short time I was there. You could hear the sidewall of the tire scraping the ditch.

I think that campground is one of the most poorly laid out that I have seen. They will rent a 20 foot deep space to a 21 foot or bigger rig. Some of the spaces are unworkable. We had site 6 on the B loop and there were no level spots at all.

The monument rocks, the campground needs to be redesigned.

[Iowa Dave]

I attended a conference once that was sponsored by the Corps of Engineers at Rock Island Illinois. One session was focused on campground design and development. Participants were given a blank piece of paper and parameters for the camper load. About 30 people participated. They pinned up the designs after the would be designers turned them in. The Corps designer walked past them and summarily pulled the “poor ones” off the wall. “Not a camper”, “Not a camper.” “Not a Camper” he would say. As he held the “failures” up he commented on each. Reverse or perpendicular angles to back in off of one way roads was the main mistake. Others were significant. Road grades and corner turning radius constraints were common also. Then the critique of “non failures” some criticisms were valid others reflected his personal bias. Having had tent, pickup camper, tent trailer and long vehicle experience (buses) I did pretty well. My mistake, he said, was that children had to cross the road to get to the playground. I did not argue or point out that this is the case in about 90% of Corps campgrounds where I had camped.

There is design and then there is maintenance. They are tied together but basic grading, re-rocking, paving maintenance, tree maintenance etc. are basic management practices. They often reflect the general philosophy of the overarching management agency or (and not as comforting) the like or dislike of campers by the local manager, and finally, budget and equipment provided.

We used to drive 60 miles an hour on Iowa’s gravel roads. At the time more miles of improved roads than any state in the Union. Some of those old county road employees could run those CAT 12 motor patrols https://www.caterpillar.com/en/news/...torgrader.html. like they were teaching a toddler to walk. Light on the levers and long on the patience. The subtle crowning, lack of steep crossfall and elimination of washboard were
a point of pride. Today a lot of things have changed. And not all for the better.
Iowa Dave

[MyronL]

One question I have is... what torque setting do you all use?

[padlin]

Originally Posted by MyronL

One question I have is... what torque setting do you all use?

If you are talking wheel lug nuts, from the 2014 manual
1st Stage 2nd Stage 3rd Stage
(ft-lb) (ft-lb) (ft-lb)
20-25 50-60 95-115

[MyronL]

Thanks. Yes, trailer wheel lugs. Seem to have misplaced my manual.

[Iowa Dave]

Hi Myron
On the wheel lug nuts I use 35-65-95 when I’m putting a wheel on the trailer, on the aluminum wheels. I check the torque at 95 every morning along with tire pressure if I’m moving that day.
I have a 12 volt Milwaukee inflator that I can set at the desired pressure, only takes a couple minutes. I have a TPMS system but did not set it up this year. In the spring of 2021 I plan to buy new tires and have steel stems installed. I don’t like the idea of valve stem deflection so I’m going to steel stems like I have on the tow vehicle.
Hope you have a better 2021 than we did in 2020z
Iowa Dave

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Hi Myron
On the wheel lug nuts I use 35-65-95 when I’m putting a wheel on the trailer, on the aluminum wheels. I check the torque at 95 every morning along with tire pressure if I’m moving that day.
I have a 12 volt Milwaukee inflator that I can set at the desired pressure, only takes a couple minutes. I have a TPMS system but did not set it up this year. In the spring of 2021 I plan to buy new tires and have steel stems installed. I don’t like the idea of valve stem deflection so I’m going to steel stems like I have on the tow vehicle.
Hope you have a better 2021 than we did in 2020z
Iowa Dave

Dave, I use the same settings as you, 35-65-95. But after removing and replacing a wheel, I check the torque at 50 and 100 miles, but not every morning. In all of my time, I have never had a properly torqued lug nut loosen after initial torquing, even when checked at 50 or 100 miles. Perhaps it happens, but I’ve never experienced it.

[Iowa Dave]

Hi Carl
I failed to mention that I check the torques after replacing (from rotating the tires) at my first stop also. I towed a total of 900 miles on a short trip a couple weeks ago. I checked them at home before leaving and after the first 500. They were correct. Didn’t check them when I got home because I’ll have them off and back on, (maybe twice) before I go out again.

I’m usually up well before Rita and it doesn’t take me long to get ready for the day. There’s not much I can do to approve my appearance. So I’m outside boiling up and looking around enjoying the solitude and that’s when I do my walking around checking the trailer.

I get a little fidgety if I’m ready to go and have to wait for my passenger(s) but I’m ok if I can stay busy till they are ready to go so it’s a natural for me. I rarely drink coffee or tea and like my first soda about 10:00 AM.

It’s 30 degrees with a 23 mph wind gusting to 40 here today. Glad I’m not towing to Omaha today, I’d have to tow a double with a fuel wagon behind the 21.
Iowa Dave