Use frame for jack tire change?

[Dream]

I have read and understand the jack points (axle mounting brackets) for a tandem axle Escape. My question is can you jack both wheels by placing the jack on the frame? It would be logical that the frame is strong enough to support the trailer, but not sure. Assume the trailer is hitched while you do the tire change and jack stands used if both wheels are removed. Any thoughts or pictures? Thanks

[cpaharley2008]

Why raise both wheels, you only have one spare?

[dstreight]

I would, unless no other choice, lift from the axle per Escape. When we did the leaf spring conversion on our 15A, we used a fork lift to lift the entire back end of the frame (via frame legs ahead of the bumper...) to get the whole trailer frame onto tall jack stands, and I was shocked how 'noodley'/flexy the frame is front to back.

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Why raise both wheels, you only have one spare?

well it is possible to run over something and blow both tires. Jack up the frame to put one on and limp to a garage ?

[johnnyv]

need to purchase jack for dual axle. What type ?

[davidmurphy02]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9K8pRtEGkk&t=523s

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by davidmurphy02

Nice
Thanks

[Dcboyd]

Changed out my new Carlisles and replaced with Endurance. Put floor Jack with 12” long 3” square tube underneath frame between axles. Jacked up both tires , removed and took to Discount. In meantime I undercoated frame behind tires, put never seize on lug threads. Reinstalled tires, Repeated on other side.

[johnnyv]

Thx David , I knew these gals would come in handy.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Dcboyd

Changed out my new Carlisles and replaced with Endurance. Put floor Jack with 12” long 3” square tube underneath frame between axles. Jacked up both tires , removed and took to Discount. In meantime I undercoated frame behind tires, put never seize on lug threads. Reinstalled tires, Repeated on other side.

I would do the same, but would use a section of 2 x 4 to distribute any “stress” on the frame.

What I would not do is put anti-sieze or any other lubricant on on lug threads. It is a no-no. Torque values are set for “dry” threads and anti-sieze or oil on lugs leads to over-torquing. If you don’t believe this, Google it.

[RangerMan]

Google is fine if you know enough about the subject to separate the bad info from the good. Tons of both.

You can find info to confirm your opinion or trash it.

[Dcboyd]

I am 74 and have been using never seize for bolts , lug nut and parts for over 55 years. Never had a problem on vehicles with mags or travel trailers. I have had a problem removing lug nuts and have broken 2 wrenches removing frozen lugs.
I appreciate the information about Google, but I have learned that a given torque on some bolts is not enough. Especially on scope rings, and lugs. Put 90# of torque on a wheel the go back and snug up wi5h a cross bar lug wrench. The “good and tighten method”. No wonder so many wheels are on the side of the roads. Lol Discount torques to 130-140 ft.lbs.

[WanderBred]

For dual axle trailers check out (trailer aid).

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Dcboyd

.... I have learned that a given torque on some bolts is not enough. Especially on ... lugs.
.... The “good and tighten method”.

Originally Posted by Dcboyd

.... I have had a problem removing lug nuts and have broken 2 wrenches removing frozen lugs.

Ever consider there just might be a correlation?

edit - It's an honest question, no condescension intended, just wondered if one had considered that tightening lugs beyond mfr recommended torque might contribute to removal difficulties.

(whatever, carry on)

edit - simply acknowledgement that old habits aren't likely to change

edited in response to

Originally Posted by Dcboyd

Is that suppose to be a condescending statement? Sure appears to be.

with apology if offense taken

[Jim Bennett]

I too use a lubricant on wheel lugs, something my cousin, a shop manager of a large tire company now passed, insisted on using. I have dealt with removing too many lug nuts where they were seized onto the bolts and a real pain to remove. With lubricant they still hold well and can also be removed fairly easily.

[Dcboyd]

Is that suppose to be a condescending statement? Sure appears to be.

[Brian B-P]

A significant advantage of jacking on the axle brackets is that the jack is probably (depending on the jack pad design) less likely to slip on those brackets than to slip on the frame rail. The bracket welded to the frame rail is also a thick plate of steel, so it is unlikely that a jack will damage it.

Originally Posted by dstreight

When we did the leaf spring conversion on our 15A, we used a fork lift to lift the entire back end of the frame (via frame legs ahead of the bumper...) to get the whole trailer frame onto tall jack stands, and I was shocked how 'noodley'/flexy the frame is front to back.

That's a good reason to not lift from the back end, but I would guess that the idea is to jack on the frame between the axles, which wouldn't be a concern.

You can just jack on the trailing (rearward) axle bracket, and lift high enough to get both tires off of the ground - it's slightly ahead of the rear axle line, and not far from the midpoint of the axles.

[GregandTeresa]

We carry the trailer aid product. While we fortunately have never had to use it, our neighbor did use it on his much larger dual axle camper and it worked very well.

https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/camc...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Fox hunt]

i use the trailer aid too. we had to change a tire on a 6 horse trailer once we used it and so easy quick!!!1

[MyronL]

John, I put my faith in a 2x8 and a nice hydraulic jack. Of course, a 12 ton might be overkill.