Warranty Service

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Uh, what is that glop on the grey tank connection? That's not how it should be attached - should be a spin weld threaded socket.
https://www.icondirect.com/spin-weld-fittings/

Yes, a spin-welded fitting seems suitable, but are you saying that Escape didn't use the glop, or only that Escape shouldn't have used the glop? In part due to the glop, it's not clear to me what fitting configuration has been used; it may already have a spin-welded fitting.

[gbaglo]

I developed a leak where the pipe enters the grey tank. I asked Reace what "glop" to use and he said none. The repair would have to be made properly ( I presume a spin-weld ).
So, I doubt that "glop" originated with ETI. Looks more like something I would do, if I hadn't talked to Reace.

[Upfisk]

Don't take us wrong about the customer service and have any hesitation to buy an Escape. This is and has been a great trailer. Most of our few items that needed repair were addressed quickly and efficiently by Escape or the component supplier.

The screws not being backed by something to hold them in is so petty, in construction. We can repair this with through bolts and a big frigging hole. It just will be such an eyesore in an otherwise beautiful cabinet.

In the past Dave in customer service has been a delight to work with. Dustin, not so much. The difference in attitude is mind boggling.

[cpaharley2008]

I think part of the issue is that basically a lot of the staff is off premises at an alternate worksite and messages do not always get through. Emails I think are better now as they staff stay connect via computers.

[felix2]

Screws loosen on trailers. Lots of vibration. I replaced all my screws in my Burro 13 with ss through-machine screws and locknuts, except for the flange that holds the refrig in place, and I have to tighten those up every couple of months. But all the locknuts are staying in place. If you have had a cabinet door come loose once, it's likely to keep doing it until you arrive at a better solution for anchoring it.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Upfisk

Except that little new backer board would be enclosed in fairly nice cabinetry. Sure, we could make a big frigging hole inside the cabinet, install a block of wood and through bolt it or use a long screw. But now we would have a fairly unsightly hole.

Molly bolts, I do not think they are available as small as these screws. Size 8 about? We have certainly considered this, these screws only are attached to a very thin piece of "wood" paneling.

Gary just a suggestion. To give you a little bit of new solid wood . I would get a small piece of wood dowel . Drill out the hole already there , now glue the dowel in the hole you drilled . After the glued has dried , drill into the wood dowel just smaller then the screw you need to put back .
I even used this method on our trailer body for one of our door hinge screws that keep striping , that held our door . That was a couple years ago , still holding . We have the Classic design trailer that has a fiberglass door .
Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Gary just a suggestion. To give you a little bit of new solid wood . I would get a small piece of wood dowel . Drill out the hole already there , now glue the dowel in the hole you drilled . After the glued has dried , drill into the wood dowel just smaller then the screw you need to put back .
I even used this method on our trailer body for one of our door hinge screws that keep striping , that held our door . That was a couple years ago , still holding . We have the Classic design trailer that has a fiberglass door .
Pat

And definetly if where the door is attached add a wood if missing . Maybe I am not understanding but there should be framing there behind the ply . Pat

[Upfisk]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

And definetly if where the door is attached add a wood if missing . Maybe I am not understanding but there should be framing there behind the ply . Pat

That is the problem Pat. There is no framing for the screw to attach to behind the plywood.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Upfisk

That is the problem Pat. There is no framing for the screw to attach to behind the plywood.

Morning Gary . Could you take a pic to show what you are dealing with ? Pat
Glue on a piece of framing wood behind the ply will give you a solid surface to screw in . Maybe a little longer screw also . Be careful not to use larger diameter screw , just need more solid wood to attach to. Really disappointing and not how framing especially for doors should be done in my humble opinion but it can be fixed . Pat

[Greg A]

Some of my cabinets have no backers. I’ve been trying to add 1/2x1 around the openings when I have something to do there.
Recently had to replace the propane detector and they had it screwed into that 1/8 stuff and it was not going to hold. Put the 1/2x on each end where the screws go in and it is rock solid now.
Another problem area is the solar controller on ours where they screwed in the same material. Replacing solar controller soon and that will get done there as well.
I’d recommend you pursue that as it’s a permanent fix. Warranty repair won’t do that if you can get it done and you’ll be revisiting the issue. I’m in Anthem, not that far, if you want to pursue further offline.

[escape artist]

Hi: Greg A... I had a similar problem. I put some plastic wall plugs that fit snug into the holes. Just make sure not to overtighten the screws. They hold fine!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[cpaharley2008]

and here I thought you had a screw loose, Alf...............

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

and here I thought you had a screw loose, Alf...............

Hi: cpaharley20089... I DID... but it's fixed now!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[jumboscott]

Update--Dustin called me yesterday, YEA--He mentioned this is a first for him and will send these parts below. I could source them from Home Depot but not near one where I'm camping. Will fix when I get home.
**1 ½” ABS trap adapter
https://www.amazon.com/NIBCO-5804-Fi...2242472&sr=8-9
**1 ½” ABS pipe
https://www.amazon.com/Charlotte-Pip...242615&sr=8-23
**1 ½” Fernco Coupling
https://www.amazon.com/EVERCONNECT-4...242653&sr=8-31
**ABS glue
**Sealant
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...2242873&sr=8-1

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by jumboscott

Update--Dustin called me yesterday, YEA--He mentioned this is a first for him and will send these parts below. I could source them from Home Depot but not near one where I'm camping. Will fix when I get home.
**1 ½” ABS trap adapter
https://www.amazon.com/NIBCO-5804-Fi...2242472&sr=8-9
**1 ½” ABS pipe
https://www.amazon.com/Charlotte-Pip...242615&sr=8-23
**1 ½” Fernco Coupling
https://www.amazon.com/EVERCONNECT-4...242653&sr=8-31
**ABS glue
**Sealant
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...2242873&sr=8-1

Proflex sealant will not stick to a grey tank. Unless part of the repair that Escape said to do is to take the tank to a shop that does spin weld fittings to have that tank fitting redone, what they are asking you to do is a waste of time.

There are ONLY two ways to reliably repair a polyethylene tank - spin weld or plastic welding.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSHy6BeiVw0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNtICPFEY_8

I've never met Dustin but if that is his idea of a fix, I wouldn't want him working on anything I own.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I've never met Dustin but if that is his idea of a fix, I wouldn't want him working on anything I own.

This is actually Reace's solution which works quite well given the situation. The sealant is just that, not an adhesive.

Escape did err with the original installation.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

This is actually Reace's solution which works quite well given the situation. The sealant is just that, not an adhesive.

Escape did err with the original installation.

The OP's spin weld fitting seems to have broken off the tank - no sealant will fix that. The solution you reference was not for a broken spin weld fitting but for a leaking threaded fitting with the spin weld fitting intact. Reace's solution for that problem is the correct way to fix a leaking threaded fitting. But this is not the same thing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6k_2SgArds

Take a another look at the OP's pic - the fitting is broken off in the threaded spin fitting damaging it such that it will need to be replaced. Just adding a bunch of sealant to damaged threads is a short term fix and will fail again.

[steve dunham]

When our black tank piping leaked it was the result of Escape using the wrong sealant on the pipe threads of the male adapter that screwed into the black tank outlet hub
The spin weld tank hub was still intact
Replacing the male adapter and some piping along with using the proper sealant appears to have rectified the issue

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

When our black tank piping leaked it was the result of Escape using the wrong sealant on the pipe threads of the male adapter that screwed into the black tank outlet hub
The spin weld tank hub was still intact
Replacing the male adapter and some piping along with using the proper sealant appears to have rectified the issue

So your issue was the same as the video I linked where Reace fixes the leaking threaded black tank fitting. I agree - Reace did the repair correctly.

In the case of the OP, that fitting is obviously broken off in the spin weld fitting and has a high probability of having damaged threads either now or when someone tries to take the broken pieces of the fitting out.

The point I was trying to make is - if it was my trailer, I would want any damaged threads repaired with a new spin weld fitting. Fix it right the first time. Patches are just that - they will fail again sooner or later.

I remind you of my signature - I do live by that.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Was your fitting intact or broken off like the OP's? Using sealant on a good threaded fitting is proper - doing the same thing on damaged threads is a patch.

The tank’s spin weld hub and the ABS male adapter were both in tact
The leak was because Escape used the wrong sealant on the pipe threads
You are correct that if the fittings were bad slopping on some goop would not solve the problem
From what I see in the picture, they need to spin weld on a new hub and repair / replace the drain piping .
This needs to done professionally and sending the owner a bunch of pipe fitting and some caulk solves nothing
I’ve said enough in the past about Escape’s method of responding to warranty issues and won’t go down that path here