Water heater anode

[skinnyp]

Good Day all... My Escape has been in storage for almost 2 years due to Covid. As I had done previously, I had removed the anode. Well... the threads on the heater were severely corroded and despite all my efforts, wire brushing / rust remover etc., I was unable to thread in the anode. Not have a tap that big,. I used an old anode and cut two groves through the threads and used this as a tap. This worked perfectly and I was able to insert a new anode with plumbers tape on the threads.
I am wondering what is the best solution too prevent this corrosion form happening again. Perhaps just apply a liberal amount of grease on the threads?
You have a great day and thanks for any suggestions.

[BobG]

The anode needs to have electrical continuity with what it is protecting. If you use something to lubricate the threads, it should be able to conduct electricity.

[DanandDaphne]

Don't leave the anode rod out. After draining the tank put new teflon tape on the threads and put it back in.

[DT6]

I wish I had a direct answer to your question and hopefully someone with a chemistry background can give you a better alternative. For me, I just remove it twice a year, use teflon tape and replace it with a new one if needed.

So far, twice a year seems to be "moving" it enough so that the rust does not take hold too hard. The environment in your area or areas where you use the trailer may be different (better/worse). For me, getting the thing screwed back in is always the hard part. Good luck!

[Dcboyd]

Originally Posted by DT6

I wish I had a direct answer to your question and hopefully someone with a chemistry background can give you a better alternative. For me, I just remove it twice a year, use teflon tape and replace it with a new one if needed.

So far, twice a year seems to be "moving" it enough so that the rust does not take hold too hard. The environment in your area or areas where you use the trailer may be different (better/worse). For me, getting the thing screwed back in is always the hard part. Good luck!

This is what I do. Remove and replace twice a year.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by skinnyp

Not have a tap that big,. I used an old anode and cut two groves through the threads and used this as a tap. This worked perfectly and I was able to insert a new anode with plumbers tape on the threads.

Good thinking.

Ron

[BobG]

I responded earlier to the skinnyp with a bad answer to the question of applying grease to the anode threads to make it easier to remove and replace the anode in the hot water tank. I suggested that if grease is used then make sure it was electrically conductive to maintain continuity with the tank. This was not a good answer.

When I saw other responses saying they use Teflon tape I started wondering how that maintains continuity. The manufacturer, Suburban, recommends Teflon tape. They also say it is ok to use a lubricant such as mineral oil. Further research indicates to me that teflon tape splits apart and allows the electrical connection between the anode threads and the tank threads.

[John in Santa Cruz]

its a NPT thread, btw, if you do choose to get a tap to chase it. I believe its 3/4" NPT (which is quite a bit larger than 3/4", its the thread for a 3/4" ID steel pipe). NPT is National Pipe, Tapered

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by BobG

I responded earlier to the skinnyp with a bad answer to the question of applying grease to the anode threads to make it easier to remove and replace the anode in the hot water tank. I suggested that if grease is used then make sure it was electrically conductive to maintain continuity with the tank. This was not a good answer.

When I saw other responses saying they use Teflon tape I started wondering how that maintains continuity. The manufacturer, Suburban, recommends Teflon tape. They also say it is ok to use a lubricant such as mineral oil. Further research indicates to me that teflon tape splits apart and allows the electrical connection between the anode threads and the tank threads.

The sacrificial anode in the tank is there to be just that ....sacrificial...the continuity is in the water not in the tank itself. The anode's electrical connection is needed with the water not the tank itself. The anode has a greater affinity to attracting an electrical charge that causes oxidation of the metal(the anode corrodes and dissolves). This is caused when dissimilar metals are put together and create galvanic corrosion similar to how a battery works. These dissimilar metals are in the water in the form of what is usually referred to as hardness. The sacrificial anode is made of a metal that has the ability to react and corrode electrically before the metal of the tank does thus protecting the tank itself from corroding.

If you are considering any kind of grease or lubricant on the anode threads ONLY USE FOOD GRADE and yes use Teflon tape to help seal the threads.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

its a NPT thread, btw, if you do choose to get a tap to chase it. I believe its 3/4" NPT (which is quite a bit larger than 3/4", its the thread for a 3/4" ID steel pipe). NPT is National Pipe, Tapered

So if I use a tap to chase out the threads on an NPT fitting is it still tapered? Will it leak?

[Iowa Dave]

The tap is tapered too if it’s an NPT tap. Numerous times on plumbing I have chased the threads to clean them up with a tap that I turned by hand or with a light wrench. I’ve done this on threads with a die also. It doesn’t usually take much and is different than cutting new threads in a smooth sided hole drilled or formed to the proper diameter with a tap or die on to put threads on a pipe. Using the complete die assembly.

Should not leak, I use three or four wraps of Teflon tape, always using a fine pointed pick to remove all of the old tape. The “starter” thread is the key to a smooth start on threads most times. That’s why it’s important to get the anode started straight in and not “cross thread” the first thread upon installation. Hence the loonies or quarters to get the anode properly aligned when starting it in. A socket that is worn out “rounded off” Is your enemy.

On threaded components we used in the municipal pools they were assembled for the season and disassembled for winterization. We used a “Never Seize” product on a lot of components. It helped on those 10 inch valves.
Iowa Dave

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

The tap is tapered too if it’s an NPT tap. Numerous times on plumbing I have chased the threads to clean them up with a tap that I turned by hand or with a light wrench. I’ve done this on threads with a die also. It doesn’t usually take much and is different than cutting new threads in a smooth sided hole drilled or formed to the proper diameter with a tap or die on to put threads on a pipe. Using the complete die assembly.

Should not leak, I use three or four wraps of Teflon tape, always using a fine pointed pick to remove all of the old tape. The “starter” thread is the key to a smooth start on threads most times. That’s why it’s important to get the anode started straight in and not “cross thread” the first thread upon installation. Hence the loonies or quarters to get the anode properly aligned when starting it in. A socket that is worn out “rounded off” Is your enemy.

On threaded components we used in the municipal pools they were assembled for the season and disassembled for winterization. We used a “Never Seize” product on a lot of components. It helped on those 10 inch valves.
Iowa Dave

Thanks! That is what I thought. I would avoid never seize on anything that is potable water though. Although it does work great! it only takes a little and it is everywhere!

[John in Santa Cruz]

This is the tap you need
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_T360

I would, after dressing the threads, use a RV water heater cleaning wand to flush all the debris back out.
https://www.campingworld.com/water-h...ser-49070.html
(I use one like this every time I remove the anode to flush out all the crud in the bottom of the tank, you'd be amazed how much crust and crud comes out)

[Ooshkaboo]

I’d try a less aggressive fix first, a small wire brush or a pipe brush.
You can always go hard if the brush doesn’t clear the threads enough.

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo

I’d try a less aggressive fix first, a small wire brush or a pipe brush.
You can always go hard if the brush doesn’t clear the threads enough.

A brush can often do the job. I drain my water heater after every trip, flushing is a good idea. and then I stuff a 1" wide strip of old towel into it, using a dowl or boat hanger, with 6" dangling out. That wicks the remaining water out, and after the towel strip is dried, I leave the port open. Bugs and the like are not a big issue, the rig is covered, so far so good.

YMMV

[Fender]

I wonder why ETI doesn't offer an anode-less water heater option.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by Fender

I wonder why ETI doesn't offer an anode-less water heater option.

Hi: Fender... $$$$'s and not sure if anyone makes one for RV use. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by escape artist

Hi: Fender... $$$$'s and not sure if anyone makes one for RV use. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

Atwood.

[Fender]

Originally Posted by escape artist

Hi: Fender... $$$$'s and not sure if anyone makes one for RV use. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

Our 2008 Triple E motorhome (also Made in Canada) had a water heater with no anode. Worked great!

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Fender

Our 2008 Triple E motorhome (also Made in Canada) had a water heater with no anode. Worked great!

Anode doesn't affect performance. It protects the tank from corrosion.