It is interesting that Q3 appears to be fried on yours. I had a circuit board trace close to it that was burnt open. I did try soldering a jumper over the burnt area but it did not bring the board back to life. I gave the old one to a friend who repairs old discrete circuit boards. He said it was not worth trying to fix. I'll have to ask him what had failed that took out the circuit board.
It is interesting that Q3 appears to be fried on yours. I had a circuit board trace close to it that was burnt open. I did try soldering a jumper over the burnt area but it did not bring the board back to life. I gave the old one to a friend who repairs old discrete circuit boards. He said it was not worth trying to fix. I'll have to ask him what had failed that took out the circuit board.
When ETI agreed to send me a new board, they asked that I send the bad, original board back to them. They said a Suburban is trying to find the common problem among all the failures so they could identify the cause. If you or your friend know the cause, call Jeff in their parts department; he’d love to hear from you.
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Rich & Mary "Everything in moderation, including moderation."
- Oscar Wilde
When ETI agreed to send me a new board, they asked that I send the bad, original board back to them. They said a Suburban is trying to find the common problem among all the failures so they could identify the cause. If you or your friend know the cause, call Jeff in their parts department; he’d love to hear from you.
I gave him a call and he said if he remembers right as that was a while ago it was the coil for the relay that took it out.
Since he is not sure I'd forget about passing that on.
Our DSI FLT came on after the propane ran out and wouldn't go off, even when the propane was restarted. Went through cleaning the chamber as suggested, still no ignition. But after trying the suggestion of turning all power off (including battery), along with the propane supply and waiting for a few minutes, the problem seems to have been solved. Not unlike rebooting a computer, I suppose.
New board arrived yesterday from ETI. Swapped it out and it fired right up. Old board shown in pics.
Looks almost identical to the failure on mine. I wonder if the problem is that the foam pad just gets too hot and carbonizes, which then shorts out the connection.
I replaced it with a board from Dinosaur, complete with their enclosure.
I realize this is an old post. However, it was very helpful to me today -- thank you! We just bought a 2018 Bullet Crossfire 2200BH. I'm new to all this.
I had my first hot water heater mishap this weekend. Hooked up to shore power and tried to turn on from inside and got the fault light. No ignition. I then cleaned out the burn chamber. I turned on the propane and tried to fire it up from the outside switch. No ignition. But, when I leave the propane on at the tank (and outside switch off) it turned on using the inside electric switch. I could here the propane being used. When I turned the propane off at the tank it shut down and would not restart. It fires up from the inside switch on propane, not electric. Must be a bad circuit board?
I had my first hot water heater mishap this weekend. Hooked up to shore power and tried to turn on from inside and got the fault light. No ignition. I then cleaned out the burn chamber. I turned on the propane and tried to fire it up from the outside switch. No ignition. But, when I leave the propane on at the tank (and outside switch off) it turned on using the inside electric switch. I could here the propane being used. When I turned the propane off at the tank it shut down and would not restart. It fires up from the inside switch on propane, not electric. Must be a bad circuit board?
If I'm following you what you are describing sounds like the correct operation. The inside switch is for propane. The outside switch is for operation on 120V electric. Ignore the reference to the switch on the monitor panel. I'm not sure when they changed but many of us with the original Gen1 trailers have the separate switch. You will see the switch in the attached picture is lit up. That is because I did a mod that leaves the switch lit when the water heater is on.
I thought the inside switch was for electric and the outside switch, on the heater itself was for propane? I am feeling pretty stupid.....but not the first time.
I thought the inside switch was for electric and the outside switch, on the heater itself was for propane? I am feeling pretty stupid.....but not the first time.
No big deal. We've all been there. Look back at my edited post and you will see the picture of the older separate Suburban switch which should be the same as yours. Since that picture I took a label maker and put "GAS" on the top of the switch plate just above the word heater.
Thanks again for the advice. I will make sure the breaker is off when in storage with power. I wouldn't want to have that switch turned on when the tank is empty. Is that switch mod you noted strictly a plug and play?
Is that switch mod you noted strictly a plug and play?
Not exactly but it's not difficult to wire. The switch I show has three terminals while the existing has two. If you wire to the Power and ACC terminals on the new switch that will function just like the existing switch. To get the switch to illuminate when ON you need to wire the ground terminal to a suitable ground. If I'm not mistaken I wired it to the ground terminal on the adjacent fault light. I'm pretty sure I just cut off the existing spade connector and crimped a new one on with both wires.
Linear Mode
