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10-14-2021, 09:17 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Trailer: 2021 Escape E5.0; 2021 F150 PowerBoost
Posts: 1,192
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Water heater not working
We arrived for camping in the Colorado national monument earlier this evening. We have the water heater (propane) on. There is propane as the cooktop and furnace are working but the water is not.
Any troubleshooting advice would be highly appreciated.
PS: Very nice park and excellent camping in the Saddlehorn campground. Quite cold (will be below freezing but hopefully for just a few hours.
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10-14-2021, 09:31 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19
Posts: 2,720
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So is it will not lite or is it that you have no hot water at the tap?
If it is just the water is cold maybe the two bypass valves are not letting the hot water come out.
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10-14-2021, 09:43 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Trailer: 2021 Escape E5.0; 2021 F150 PowerBoost
Posts: 1,192
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Thank you! We seem to have resolved the issue. We turned it off and turned it back on. It seemed to have ignited the heater. The water is now lukewarm and getting warmer.
When I get back, I will try to educate myself on this.
PS: we are at some elevation (don’t know the exact elevation number). I don’t know if this was a factor.
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10-14-2021, 10:19 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Trailer: 2015 E'21 - 'Velocity'. Tow: Toyota Tacoma V6, 4X4, manual.
Posts: 1,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavm
...
PS: we are at some elevation (don’t know the exact elevation number). I don’t know if this was a factor.
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Roughly 5600 feet.
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10-14-2021, 11:47 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Kent, Ohio
Trailer: 2017 21c Sold, 2023 Bigfoot 25RQ
Posts: 1,393
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Ive had mine not light the first time a few times, what you did resolved it. I did, however, replace the control board under warranty the second year I owned the trailer.
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10-15-2021, 09:27 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Trailer: 2021 Escape E5.0; 2021 F150 PowerBoost
Posts: 1,192
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Thank you for sharing the elevation, Alanmalk!
Oldwave, this is the first time it happened for us. How / where does one see/hear that it is lighting?.
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10-15-2021, 06:38 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Austin, Texas
Trailer: 2019 5.0TA "Junior", 2019 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi
Posts: 1,600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavm
Thank you for sharing the elevation, Alanmalk!
Oldwave, this is the first time it happened for us. How / where does one see/hear that it is lighting?.
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When you turn on the water heater switch on the inside panel the small "FLT" (fault) LED will come on for several seconds as it attempts to light. If it lights, the LED will go out. If the LED stays on it indicates that the burner did not light.
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10-15-2021, 06:51 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmurphy02
When you turn on the water heater switch on the inside panel the small "FLT" (fault) LED will come on for several seconds as it attempts to light. If it lights, the LED will go out. If the LED stays on it indicates that the burner did not light.
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To expand on this a bit the system will try 3 times to light. If it faults on the third try the FLT light stays on (or in the case of the older trailers with the separate switch it is the reset light). You need to toggle the power switch to OFF for five seconds then back ON to reset the water heater and make it fire again. This can happen if there was some air in the line and doesn’t necessarily mean there is a problem with the water heater.
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10-15-2021, 07:51 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Cold Spring, Kentucky
Trailer: 2022 21C + 2021 F-150 PowerBoost 4x4
Posts: 567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
To expand on this a bit the system will try 3 times to light. If it faults on the third try the FLT light stays on (or in the case of the older trailers with the separate switch it is the reset light). You need to toggle the power switch to OFF for five seconds then back ON to reset the water heater and make it fire again. This can happen if there was some air in the line and doesn’t necessarily mean there is a problem with the water heater.
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Very good intel to have. Noticed the attachment was from Oliver Travel Trailers. Does Escape provide this too?
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10-15-2021, 09:14 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Kent, Ohio
Trailer: 2017 21c Sold, 2023 Bigfoot 25RQ
Posts: 1,393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavm
Thank you for sharing the elevation, Alanmalk!
Oldwave, this is the first time it happened for us. How / where does one see/hear that it is lighting?.
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The light on the control panel should go out and you should hear the water heater starting.
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10-16-2021, 09:14 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Trailer: 2021 Escape E5.0; 2021 F150 PowerBoost
Posts: 1,192
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Thank you very much for all the insights! Typing this on the phone, so will keep it short. Definitely consider the Colorado National Monument andSaddlehorn campground in your plans.
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10-16-2021, 12:00 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Kent, Ohio
Trailer: 2017 21c Sold, 2023 Bigfoot 25RQ
Posts: 1,393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavm
Thank you very much for all the insights! Typing this on the phone, so will keep it short. Definitely consider the Colorado National Monument andSaddlehorn campground in your plans.
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We loved Colorado National Monument
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07-23-2022, 07:35 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Nanaimo, British Columbia
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19
Posts: 64
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I'm having a curious failure with the water heater in my 2017 19. I don't know if they use the same heater in all models and all years, so I'll specify that it's the Suburban SW6DE.
On the last day of our recent camp, the water from the heater was cold. I checked and found that it would not ignite.
When we got home and settled I started looking into it.
The electrode (P/N 232258) would arc and the flame would start briefly and go out. It went through its three cycles and stopped. It did this for a few tests, and then eventually degraded to a situation where it wouldn't light at all. Sitting outside beside the open door of the heater I could hear the fuel solenoid open, and I could hear a faint ticking rather than the normal sound of the igniter arcing.
I used a lighter to confirm that the fuel solenoid was delivering propane properly and the burner lit quickly and burned cleanly, but went out after a couple of seconds.
I checked the electrode and found it to be quite clean and undamaged. I checked resistance through the two rods of the electrode and they were both excellent. Very low resistance.
I crawled in under the bed and accessed the brains of the operation, the module (P/N520814). There was no visible sign of damage and the igniter wire was cleanly and tightly connected.
I checked resistance through the igniter wire, which measured the same as if I put the two probes together. Perfect.
While attempting a start again, I got down next to the module and listened. I could hear it making a sound similar to what a photography flash makes the it's charging up, then it gets interrupted when it tried to create an arc at the electrode.
SO... I thought maybe if there was a ground problem for the electrode it may not want to throw an arc, so I took the burner tube out with the electrode and found that the path to ground was all quite rusty/oxidized. I took a fine wire brush to the mating surfaces and put it back together. To make sure there is no doubt of a good ground, I ran a wire from the screw that holds the electrode in, over to a screw on the fuel solenoid that already has a ground wire attached.
Lo and behold, it started lighting again, but wouldn't stay lit.
So so far from all of this, I thought I'd share that a poor ground can prevent a good arc at the electrode!
As discussed previously in this thread, the electrode acts as the eyes of the control module to let it know that there is a flame or not. If there is no message telling the module there is flame, it shuts off the propane.
Because I can have a new electrode inexpensively in a couple of days, I've ordered one. If that isn't the solution then it will be the module and I'll have a spare electrode on the shelf for the future.
Crossing my fingers it's the cheap fix, but I've got a bad feeling about this Chewie.
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07-24-2022, 06:47 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Brockville (Near Ottawa), Ontario
Trailer: 2010 Prolite Mini
Posts: 303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavm
Thank you for sharing the elevation, Alanmalk!
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Just a note that the iPhone compass app shows your latitude, longitude and elevation.
Another campsite added to my list!
.
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07-24-2022, 08:24 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,260
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Hello Brett
Thanks for the extensive write up on what you have done so far. I don’t think you noted whether or not you checked the pressure coming out of the propane regulator and ascertained that the propane tank was full and fully open? And whether or not you might have gotten into some polluted propane. Which of course you could check with your propane stove. Otherwise I believe you’ve checked all the boxes some of which I did not know existed as I’ve not had any problems with our same model heater in the 2013 21. Good luck in solving your mystery.
Iowa Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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07-24-2022, 09:24 AM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Nanaimo, British Columbia
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19
Posts: 64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave
Hello Brett
Thanks for the extensive write up on what you have done so far. I don’t think you noted whether or not you checked the pressure coming out of the propane regulator and ascertained that the propane tank was full and fully open? And whether or not you might have gotten into some polluted propane. Which of course you could check with your propane stove. Otherwise I believe you’ve checked all the boxes some of which I did not know existed as I’ve not had any problems with our same model heater in the 2013 21. Good luck in solving your mystery.
Iowa Dave
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Dave, absolutely right I'm not geared up to measure pressure on the downstream side of the regulator. The mother of all screw-ups is assumption, and because I saw such a robust blue flame when it did ignite, I assumed that pressure and quality is good.
The valves on the cylinders are wide open though, and I recently replaced the hoses with new ones that have gauges on them and they are at least 80% full.
I was about to say that all other appliances have been working as per design but I stopped myself.... I've been fighting with the furnace (which many of us do). That's a whole other thread. that's an intermittent issue and when it works properly it works flawlessly.
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07-24-2022, 09:47 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,260
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A friend of mine with a 2016 21 had problems this spring. He believed his problem was the brain and though I don’t know much about it, I thought he was right. I did advise him that several people have been happy with a replacement circuit board made by Dinosaur. He bought one from them, it came in a couple days, was easy to install and solved his problem which was similar to yours. I hadn’t thought of that when I responded the first time to your post. Again,
Good luck.
https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm
Iowa Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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07-28-2022, 10:15 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Nanaimo, British Columbia
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19
Posts: 64
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The electrode came in. I installed it tonight, and we have a functioning heater!
I wasn't very optimistic... I figured that with the nice arc the old electrode gave when the ground was good, it wasn't likely that was the problem.
I guess it wasn't good enough to give the control module the message that it was flame on.
I guess I can spend the money I was willing to dish out for the module on something else!
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07-28-2022, 10:48 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,260
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Glad you got your water heater going.. repairs that work when you just have to add a new part are the best. Hope you have a great rest of the camping season and plenty of hot water.
Iowa Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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07-28-2022, 10:55 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brookfielder
I figured that with the nice arc the old electrode gave when the ground was good, it wasn't likely that was the problem. I guess it wasn't good enough to give the control module the message that it was flame on.
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Nice work getting it going again! The electrode is a 2 prong design to also sense flame. My guess is similar to yours. The old electrode was fine but you had a bad thermocouple so it failed to tell the board you had flame.
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