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Old 03-16-2020, 11:31 AM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Graysville, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 19'
Posts: 79
Water heater not working on gas

I went off grid this weekend. I found out that the heater uses a lot of battery. I also found that my water heater does not work on gas. It attempts to light but no spark and if you light it with a lighter it will burn but then shut off when the valve shuts. I followed the ignitor line up and found of course a computer board. Why is there always a computer board?? Any suggestions?
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Old 03-16-2020, 01:12 PM   #2
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: White Bird, Idaho
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19, "Zen Purple", 2017 4X4 Chevy Colorado/Duramax
Posts: 405
I have this problem as well with my 19. The water heater has been glitchy since we brought it home. Sometimes it fires right up and stays lit, but more often it takes many attempts. The gas builds up, there is a POW when the igniter lights, it runs for maybe 20 seconds, then flames out. Thinking the line was clogged with dead bugs or something like that, I tried to blow it out, and that did seem to help. You might try it before taking anything apart. At this point, I can usually get it to stay lit after multiple attempts, but it does take multiple attempts most of the time. I'm planning a trip to Chilliwack this summer before it goes off warranty and will ask them to check it out. In the meantime if anyone has any suggestions, I'd be interested in hearing about them too. Thanks!
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Old 03-19-2020, 09:55 AM   #3
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Trailer: 2017 19'
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After seeing a few other posts, I have ordered a new board for the water heater. Everyone says to go with Dinosaur parts since Suburban is made so cheap. They also have a three year warranty on their parts.
https://www.amazon.com/Dinosaur-Elec...1&sr=8-1-fkmr0
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Old 03-26-2020, 02:43 PM   #4
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Graysville, Tennessee
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That was the problem. Put new board in and it started right up. Make sure order the new cover and you will have to cut the delay that they show you on the directions.
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Old 04-05-2020, 01:20 PM   #5
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Location: Redwood City, California
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19
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Thanks for following up with the resolution. That set of problems can be either the igniter board or the igniter/sensor itself, but the igniter/sensor is a fairly simple and robust hunk of metal. Generally if it's broken it's visibly damaged, or at the very least a multimeter will show a clear problem with continuity.

Is there visible damage on your board? Mine had a "crispy spot" on the back where it had heated up enough to melt and partially carbonize the foam pad that was used to attach it, which probably then caused a full short. I'm wondering if that's a common failure point. I definitely prefer the mounting plate/case on the Dinosaur boards, even if it's a bit pricey.
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Old 04-06-2020, 10:30 AM   #6
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Yes, a small discolored area.
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