Water pump air/spitting water

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Valerie

We had that same problem when we received our E19 last April. After problem-solving with Escape on the phone to no avail, they sent us a new clear plastic cap and stainless filter, assuming it had a defect - and that did the trick. I'd go ahead and ask them to put that part it in the mail to you so when you return you can replace it.

Even better is the one Shurflo has with a dome lid . On the flat top the screen cut into the lid . Good yours is working now . Luck of the draw ! Pat

[rubicon327]

Interesting timing on this thread. Pump wouldn’t shut off on last trip after working perfectly for many years. Tried tightening pump fittings and it seemed to get better. Only tested pump using winterizing suction line and thought everything was ok. Fast forward a few months and pump wouldn’t shut off again. Since pump was over 11 years old and installed in such a way that adjustments were impossible (head facing down and close to floor) I decided to put in a new one. I installed the new Shurflo 4008 today. Couldn’t get air out of the system no matter what I did and pump would not shut off. After filling entire system from city water and some troubleshooting I realized the winterizing 3way valve was installed (by previous owner) in a section of flexible clear tubing with a Flair-it fitting. No good...they are designed for PEX. Removed the winterizing tee and all is well. It was sucking air in but not leaking water. When I installed new pump I had rotated it 90 degrees which allowed me to adjust the pump pressure and bypass setting. Working great now! Old Shurflo pump was cleaned, rebuilt and tested. Works fine. Will be kept as a spare or possibly repurposed as a water transfer pump (from containers to fresh tank when boondocking).

Bottom line: If you cannot get rid of all the air it is likely being pulled in somewhere between the fresh tank and pump. Inspect everything very closely.

[chief marv]

5.0T, 2015. When checking the pump I turn off city water, open faucets to relieve line pressure. Turn on pump and open faucet or flush toilet and check flow. (Be sure you have water in tank 🤔. I have not had any pump problem so far.

[JumpinJoe]

I had this same oroblem on my 5.0. I changed the entire stainless water filter before the pump and it resolved everything after endless hours of trouble shooting. You cant see a hairline crzck but it sure can suck air!

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by JumpinJoe

I had this same oroblem on my 5.0. I changed the entire stainless water filter before the pump and it resolved everything after endless hours of trouble shooting. You cant see a hairline crzck but it sure can suck air!

FWIW Escape must not have installed the inlet strainers on early trailers. When I replaced our pump recently there wasn't one. Pump (Shurflo 2088) has run fine for almost 12 years and still runs fine. It was very clean inside. We are careful with the quality of water that goes in the tank and we sanitize each Spring. When I replaced the pump recently with a Shurflo 4008 because I thought it was bad I did not include a strainer. I too have seen these strainers crack.

[Warmhat]

Dustin at ET replaced the filter on pump for me on 7th .. I'm only about 50 mins away .. but seams to have fixed .. thanks to ET

[HANK]

Wanted to update this thread. ETI directed me to replace the pump filter, which had no visual defects. I did this, and it solved the issue. I was pleasantly surprised by the water pressure produced from this pump.


I did adjust the pump pressure screw back to the original setting.


For those trouble shooting their pump issues, my water from my fresh tank to the pump filter would not hold pressure and would fall back into the fresh tank, after the pump turned off. This indicates it is not functioning correctly, and there is a problem.


Thanks all for the help!

[DWM3]

Originally Posted by HANK

Wanted to update this thread. ETI directed me to replace the pump filter, which had no visual defects. I did this, and it solved the issue. I was pleasantly surprised by the water pressure produced from this pump.


I did adjust the pump pressure screw back to the original setting.


For those trouble shooting their pump issues, my water from my fresh tank to the pump filter would not hold pressure and would fall back into the fresh tank, after the pump turned off. This indicates it is not functioning correctly, and there is a problem.


Thanks all for the help!

Did you replace just the upper clear cap with the metal mesh filter, or did you have to replace the entire filter body? We have exactly the same problem, so it looks like a common manufacturing defect.

[JumpinJoe]

I would recommend saving yourself a small headache and replace the entire filter for short money.

[HANK]

Originally Posted by DWM3

Did you replace just the upper clear cap with the metal mesh filter, or did you have to replace the entire filter body? We have exactly the same problem, so it looks like a common manufacturing defect.

I replaced the entire filter body.

[glsails]

We have a 21C, it's about a month old now. Before we left on our maiden voyage, which turned out to be 8 days, I attempted to de-winterize and test the water system. The pump would not shut off, air kept entering the system no matter what. I inspected the strainer cup and could see no obvious defects. Even added a little silicone grease to it's threads. Minimal change. Inspected water system from tank to all fittings and piping. No obvious leaks. The water pump would not shut off once turned on, no matter what (including adjusting the shutoff pressure and cut in pressure).

Scoured interweb threads on SF RV water pumps and decided replacing the strainer cup would be worth the $15 gamble. I was desperate not to miss our trip. Interestingly, the guy at the RV store told me that the cups are routinely damaged in winterized trailers. Freezing water gets trapped in the threads and expands causing air leakage. You cannot visibly see the damage. Solution, so that you do not have to put in a new strainer cup, is to remove the cap after winterizing.

Went home from the RV store and replaced the cap. System primed and worked properly. Our trip was on! Meanwhile, ETI returned my phone call from several days before with the advice to try replacing the strainer cap. I know they're slammed. Glad I was persistent in trying to figure the problem out though.

As a side note, I did have to re-adjust both cut off and cut in pressures using an allen key. Took about three minutes to get it perfect. I had over adjusted the cut in screw initially and that caused city water to bypass the check valve in the pump and fill the water tank, when hooked up to city water. Getting the pressure screws properly adjusted eliminated that problem.

For such a simple thing, this really caused a lot of anxiety and frustration in a brand new trailer. Not nearly as bad as the mis-routed negative battery connection that caused the negative cable to detach from one of our expensive Li batteries though. But that's another story for a different thread.

[miataone]

I had a similar issue with my new 21NE yesterday and found that the filter was the issue, just as described in the thread. It was very helpful to be able to find the information contained here so I knew right where to start looking! I contacted Escape via email this morning and they sent me an email this afternoon saying that a new filter unit had been shipped! In the meantime the pump now works fine without the filter in the line.

[Fraxescape]

Originally Posted by UncleTim

Go check the water pump itself. It has a anti freeze bypass. It is possible that little valve is open and sucking in air. In this picture, the valve is in the lower right hand corner and fully closed.

If so, close it.

Where is the hatch you are looking through - under the bed?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Fraxescape

Where is the hatch you are looking through - under the bed?

Since that is a 5.0 in that photo you are looking into the rear drivers side dinette seat where the hot water heater is located.