what the heck???

[J Mac]

I just parked my rig at a storage facility. I removed the single, 12 volt battery on my my Escape 17, so I could keep it on a 'trickle charge' at home, because I won't be using my trailer for an unknown period of time. When I gave the interior a "one last look over before I lock the door" I noticed that the solar panel's read out, on the wall above the sink, read that a charge was present. The roof top panel was receiving full sun and there was 3+ amps coming in. I turned on the fan and it worked, led lights worked too. BUT there was no battery on board!!!
What the heck

[Jim Bennett]

That there would be what in the solar industry is called ghost charging. This does not necessarily mean that you have ghosts in your trailer, but if you did they could use all the facilities of it with no problem.

Your panel and charge controller are still putting out a charge, just as your converter would if plugged in without a battery. I do wonder at the 3+A draw though, maybe this is just the potential current rate available?

[Jim Bennett]

Speaking of which, if you have a solar panel and charge controller, why the desire to pull the battery out? It will be kept charged in place, no problem.

[Brian B-P]

With a current indication and no battery, I only see three possiblities:

1. incorrect reading (but 3 amps a big error)
2. the controller itself is using power (obviously it's using some, or there would be no display, but it shouldn't be 36+ watts)
3. stuff in the trailer is on (which could include detectors, but should not be even close to 36+ watts)

I assume the answer is some combination of these.

[J Mac]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Speaking of which, if you have a solar panel and charge controller, why the desire to pull the battery out? It will be kept charged in place, no problem.

I don't want to 'loose' it.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by J Mac

I don't want to 'loose' it.

Or 'lose' it either. I forgot they were easily assessable on the bumper on the 17.

[J Mac]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Or 'lose' it either. I forgot they were easily assessable on the bumper on the 17.

And accessible.

[gbaglo]

Gotta love that Tapawalk.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by J Mac

And accessible.

LOL.... Touche! Darn swype typing.

[J Mac]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

With a current indication and no battery, I only see three possiblities:

1. incorrect reading (but 3 amps a big error)
2. the controller itself is using power (obviously it's using some, or there would be no display, but it shouldn't be 36+ watts)
3. stuff in the trailer is on (which could include detectors, but should not be even close to 36+ watts)

I assume the answer is some combination of these.

I don't think I understand explanation 2 or 3 because I can't understand where the power could be coming from. Rule out number 1 as well. I read 3 amps incoming.

[rbryan4]

The only time I've heard of things being able to run when the battery is disconnected is when the solar panel is powering the devices directly, provided the items are within the voltage limits of the panel. To my knowledge Escapes are not wired that way, so it is puzzling.

[War Eagle]

Interesting that there is a whole other thread going now about how you are supposed to disconnect solar input to the controller before removing the battery.
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...rys-10939.html
If one does that, then the solar shouldn't be able to power anything once disconnected from the controller. Isn't that right? Also, someone posted on that threat that disconnecting the solar is just to help keep one from being shocked by the solar power coming into the controller while messing with the battery(ies). Is that right?

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

Interesting that there is a whole other thread going now about how you are supposed to disconnect solar input to the controller before removing the battery.
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...rys-10939.html
If one does that, then the solar shouldn't be able to power anything once disconnected from the controller. Isn't that right? Also, someone posted on that threat that disconnecting the solar is just to help keep one from being shocked by the solar power coming into the controller while messing with the battery(ies). Is that right?

My solar is connected to my batteries out of the solar controller, which also connects to the DC distribution. With the batteries removed, my solar will power the DC circuits with no problem, up to the amount of the charge current, which is usually 4-8A dependant upon solar gain, lower with poor sky or shade.

This is the same as with the trailer plugged into the grid, where the converter provides the 12V power, and will operate devices in the trailer even without a battery.

Disconnecting under load can carry a risk of personal harm, but one can be careful there to avoid it. What it will always do especially if the load is high, is to cause arcing at the moment of connection or disconnection, cause corrosion and wear on that connection. A proper disconnect will avoid all these issues. Personally, I believe the amount of wear to be very minimal, but if easily avoided....... Think of putting battery cables from a running vehicle onto the depleted battery of another vehicle, and the arcing that can occur there, same kinda thing.

[J Mac]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

My solar is connected to my batteries out of the solar controller, which also connects to the DC distribution. With the batteries removed, my solar will power the DC circuits with no problem, up to the amount of the charge current, which is usually 4-8A dependant upon solar gain, lower with poor sky or shade.

This is the same as with the trailer plugged into the grid, where the converter provides the 12V power, and will operate devices in the trailer even without a battery.

Disconnecting under load can carry a risk of personal harm, but one can be careful there to avoid it. What it will always do especially if the load is high, is to cause arcing at the moment of connection or disconnection, cause corrosion and wear on that connection. A proper disconnect will avoid all these issues. Personally, I believe the amount of wear to be very minimal, but if easily avoided....... Think of putting battery cables from a running vehicle onto the depleted battery of another vehicle, and the arcing that can occur there, same kinda thing.

Remove negative terminal first...correct?

[War Eagle]

I might just toss a painter's heavy duty cotton drop cloth over our solar collector if/when I need to disconnect our battery to minimize the risk of arcing.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by J Mac

Remove negative terminal first...correct?

Yes, this is because it is connected to ground, and if a tool disconnecting it hits anything grounded there is no problem, but if you remove the positive first if the tool contacts ground, you will short circuit the battery.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

I might just toss a painter's heavy duty cotton drop cloth over our solar collector if/when I need to disconnect our battery to minimize the risk of arcing.

Without sun there is no charging current, and very minimal (if any) risk.

[goalie39]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Without sun there is no charging current, and very minimal (if any) risk.

If there are any capacitors in the system, they can hold charge for quite awhile -- so best to assume there is always some potential for a shock.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by J Mac

I don't think I understand explanation 2 or 3 because I can't understand where the power could be coming from. Rule out number 1 as well. I read 3 amps incoming.

From the panel. Only the battery is disconnected, right?

Originally Posted by J Mac

Rule out number 1 as well. I read 3 amps incoming.

If a display says 3 amps, and the actual current is zero amps, the display is wrong... that's all I meant. Are you measuring current with a separate meter, or only reading the display of the solar charge controller?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

The only time I've heard of things being able to run when the battery is disconnected is when the solar panel is powering the devices directly, provided the items are within the voltage limits of the panel. To my knowledge Escapes are not wired that way, so it is puzzling.

As long as the Escape's battery disconnect switch is on, there is a path from the solar panel through the solar charge controller to the distribution panel and the various DC loads. Since the fan etc. work, that switch must be on (or the solar output is wired to the load side of the switch, rather than the battery side).

The battery has been removed; I didn't see any comment on the switch position.