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Old 04-17-2021, 10:00 PM   #1
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Wheel Lug Nut Torque ?

I have a 2014 5.0 TA with the Dexter ezlube hubs.

The suspension is the leaf style.

I have looked through the forum but have been able to find recommended torque specs for the wheel lug nuts.

I have reviewed the Dexter site and I think it's 100-120

Please can someone tell me what the wheel nuts should be torqued to ?
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Old 04-18-2021, 01:31 AM   #2
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We have a 2019 21C and in our owners manual it says to torque to 95-115 ft-lbs in the last stage. See attached. Best, -Bea
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Old 04-18-2021, 07:01 AM   #3
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The sticker, located on the driver’s side of my 2015 leaf-sprinted 5.0TA between the two wheels states that wheel lugs should be torqued to 90-95 ft-lbs. At 95 ft-lbs, I have never had a lug nut loosen. Incidentally, over-torquing can deform components and can result in broken wheel studs.
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Old 04-18-2021, 08:36 AM   #4
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Beer nuts!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepy View Post
I have a 2014 5.0 TA with the Dexter ezlube hubs.

The suspension is the leaf style.

I have looked through the forum but have been able to find recommended torque specs for the wheel lug nuts.

I have reviewed the Dexter site and I think it's 100-120

Please can someone tell me what the wheel nuts should be torqued to ?
Hi: sleepy... We have a 2014 5.0TA as well. Torque all wheel nuts to 95 '#s and you'll be good to go. Now what else did you forget to pack? My torque wrench travels in the trailer and if I get really bored at a campground I might check the nuts!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 04-18-2021, 11:31 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Bea View Post
We have a 2019 21C and in our owners manual it says to torque to 95-115 ft-lbs in the last stage. See attached. Best, -Bea
Thank you for checking- I couldn't or rather can't find it in my Owner's Manual. I don't think it's in there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
The sticker, located on the driverís side of my 2015 leaf-sprinted 5.0TA between the two wheels states that wheel lugs should be torqued to 90-95 ft-lbs. At 95 ft-lbs, I have never had a lug nut loosen. Incidentally, over-torquing can deform components and can result in broken wheel studs.
C&G- Thanks for pointing to the sticker- I looked everywhere but the obvious- Because yes I have that sticker, too. I didn't look up- if i has it would have bit me in the face. Oh well.

Quote:
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Hi: sleepy... We have a 2014 5.0TA as well. Torque all wheel nuts to 95 '#s and you'll be good to go. Now what else did you forget to pack? My torque wrench travels in the trailer and if I get really bored at a campground I might check the nuts!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
I won't know what I forgot until I am 2 hours from home and at least an hour from a store that closes in 30 minutes.
I bring too much stuff as it is.

95 pounds seems to be the right number for this vintage of 5.0 TA

Thanks to you all, for helping me out.
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Old 04-18-2021, 05:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepy View Post
I have a 2014 5.0 TA with the Dexter ezlube hubs.

The suspension is the leaf style...
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepy View Post
95 pounds seems to be the right number for this vintage of 5.0 TA.
Fortunately, none of the model, vintage, suspension type (e.g. leaf springs), or hub lubrication gimmick (E-Z lube) make any difference to the wheel nut torque requirement. The studs and hubs are the same regardless of all of these factors; the studs, the hubs, and the wheels are the only components relevant to the torque.
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:59 AM   #7
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Thanks Brian B-P.
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Old 04-19-2021, 03:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepy View Post
I have a 2014 5.0 TA with the Dexter ezlube hubs.

The suspension is the leaf style.

I have looked through the forum but have been able to find recommended torque specs for the wheel lug nuts.

I have reviewed the Dexter site and I think it's 100-120

Please can someone tell me what the wheel nuts should be torqued to ?

I just removed my lug nuts a couple of days ago getting ready to do bearing repacks and get new Goodyear Endurance tires (!). They had not been off or on for about 20 months, and really were not in a very coming off sort of mood - there's nothing quite like a 6' length of 2" metal conduit over a 18" breaker bar to get things moving again. I've been (final) torquing them to 85 ft lbs, with occasional (un-needed) checking / tightening while on the road. Think I'll try to loosen and re-tighten them every 6 months or so while in storage from now on.
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Old 04-19-2021, 03:49 PM   #9
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You cannot beat a good 18 volt impact wrench. Even set on the light setting my Milwaukee will back the lugs nuts off with no real effort. They do not get hot. You are on the right track when you take them on and off I think. I get that action when I rotate the tires, and grease bearings or check the brakes once a year. There, are you happy now Alf?
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Old 04-19-2021, 04:39 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
You cannot beat a good 18 volt impact wrench. Even set on the light setting my Milwaukee will back the lugs nuts off with no real effort. They do not get hot. You are on the right track when you take them on and off I think. I get that action when I rotate the tires, and grease or check the brakes once a year.
Iowa Dave
Hi: Iowa Dave... I oil the brakes as often as I can!!! Alf
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Old 04-19-2021, 05:05 PM   #11
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Ok ok I got in a hurry. Reminded me though of the grade school joke
“What were Tarzan’s last words?”
“Who greased the grapevine?”
Painting word pictures I am
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Old 04-19-2021, 05:46 PM   #12
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Sorry for the dumb question but what is a bearing repack and how often does it need to be done on a 5.0?
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Old 04-19-2021, 06:22 PM   #13
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Sorry for the dumb question but what is a bearing repack and how often does it need to be done on a 5.0?
You will receive an owners manual with your new Escape and it will explain when it is needed. I do it every other year when getting my annual inspection.
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Old 04-19-2021, 07:10 PM   #14
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You will receive an owners manual with your new Escape and it will explain when it is needed. I do it every other year when getting my annual inspection.
Thanks a lot, Jim! That helps!
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Old 04-19-2021, 07:22 PM   #15
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Depending upon your desire, free time, tool availability and willingness to learn if you don’t know, there are quite a few routine maintenance practices that can be performed by owners at a monetary savings. However this is not a consideration for many. Then it becomes the doable task of locating a reasonably priced shop with a competent mechanic, experienced in the task at hand. Jobs on the trailer running gear such as brakes and brake adjustment , wheel bearing service, running lights, tires rotation can be done by trailer shops not just RV dealers. When you’re ready I would suggest a post requesting recommendations for such a shop in your area. Often you will get a response that is seconded or reinforced by other owners in your area. Don’t let these tasks worry you, just follow the service intervals recommended and keep up with routine checks. Tire pressure, tire inspection for even wear, checking your lights and brakes before an outing are easily performed and will give you peace of mind as you own your Escape. There are no dumb questions, sincerely.
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Old 04-19-2021, 10:22 PM   #16
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Thank you for your advice, Dave! New to this game, so on the steep end of the learning curve and, with our pickup date approaching (less than 6 weeks), a bit anxious as well... So, reading up and trying to absorb.

I will do as you suggest. Thank you!
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Old 04-20-2021, 12:54 PM   #17
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You cannot beat a good 18 volt impact wrench. Even set on the light setting my Milwaukee will back the lugs nuts off with no real effort. They do not get hot. You are on the right track when you take them on and off I think. I get that action when I rotate the tires, and grease bearings or check the brakes once a year. There, are you happy now Alf?
Iowa Dave
Dave, What is the proper rotation pattern when rotating the tires; front to back, side to side, diagonal?
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Old 04-20-2021, 04:20 PM   #18
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I do not know if there is a legitimate pattern on non directional tread trailer tires. When I bought tires last time I bought four new ones. I ran them 8,000 miles. Then I bought another new tire, mounting it on the used spare rim. I then put the new no miles on it tire and wheel on the right rear. Moved the right rear to the right front. The right front went to the left front . The left front went to the left rear and the left rear went on the spare tire mount. I continued to do this each 8,000 or so miles until now. The least worn tire has 6/32 tread left. Two have 5/32 two have 4/32. The one with the least tread is in the left
Rear and as I check the brake linings and wheel bearings later this week, Iíll put it on the spare tire mount. Iím not sure of our complete plans this summer but do plan to run some miles. That said, I will run the tires about a thousand or so miles locally and then buy new tires. I have a good utility trailer that I use locally. I save the best three Escape tires (Goodyear Endurance), when I get new Escape tires and put those used ones on the trailer. Since they are four years old and never stored outside Iím confident they will run another two or three years on the utility trailer.
Thatís how I do it. I am happy with the wear rate, wear pattern, sidewall strength and ďbiteĒ I get when brakes are applied. I realize that others owner may have other ideas on tire practices whether it is rotation, inflation pressure, storage off the paving etc. This is mine and Iíll own it. By the way Iím running 60 lbs pressure, cold, in cool weather and 58 psi cold in hot weather. Our 21 weighs 4380 loaded for a trip with hot water tank full and 10 gallons in the fresh water tank. As always YMMV Hope this answers your questions.
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Old 04-20-2021, 06:34 PM   #19
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Thank you Dave, this was something I haven't a lot of thought to.
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Old 04-21-2021, 07:07 AM   #20
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Rotating...

Hi: Iowa Dave... I haven't rotated my spare tire in years. We just don't get out dancing any more!!! I have been known to "Grease a palm" now and then. Alf
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