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Old 06-28-2014, 04:45 PM   #1
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Wheel nut removal

Has anyone ever removed a tire themselves off their Escape. I tried and could not budge my wheel nuts. I hope I never ever have to remove them myself!!
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Old 06-28-2014, 04:55 PM   #2
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I'm planning to carry penetrating oil and a tire iron should the need arise to remove a reluctant trailer wheel, and a torque wrench to get it back on and properly tightened. Does this sound like the right strategy?
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Old 06-28-2014, 04:58 PM   #3
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What kind of tool were you using ? A four way tire iron will not give you much leverage. To tighten you should have a torque wrench and a 13/16 socket. 95 ft lbs for steel wheels. Lug nut torque spec is shown on the label attached to the trailer. Having tools that work would be a good idea when traveling.
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:03 PM   #4
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If you have those fancy aluminum wheels (especially), they need to be torqued properly so they don't distort. Has anyone checked with ETI to find out the foot pounds?
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:10 PM   #5
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You should expect to need to apply about 100 lb-ft of torque (or more), so if you are using a wrench only one foot long, you're going to need to seriously lean on it. I have carried a flex handle twice that long and a corresponding socket.

I use a torque wrench to tighten wheel nuts at home, but have never traveled with one; I'm confident I can achieve a reasonable tightening torque if required.
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:18 PM   #6
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ETI uses Dexter axles. Dexter says in their FAQ that the torque must be appropriate for the fastener (stud and nut) and the wheel. It would be interesting to hear what the wheel manufacturer recommends.
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:27 PM   #7
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Complete dexter axles are supplied with wheel studs installed.
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:28 PM   #8
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If you carry a length of steel pipe a couple feet long that will fit over the wrench you are using, you can extend it and employ the lever principle. Might even be able to use the pipe for the WDH, depending on your lug wrench.
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catchlight View Post
I'm planning to carry penetrating oil and a tire iron should the need arise to remove a reluctant trailer wheel...
What do you mean by a "tire iron"? This meant a lever used to take a tire off a wheel, or put one on, but a modern trailer owner is unlikely to carry one of these (and you usually need two, anyway). If you mean a wrench intended for wheel nuts, the most effective type is the x-shaped design (or "cross wrench" or "cross style lug wrench" or "spider type lug wrench"); the classic one-piece wrench is too short and to hard to hold effectively.
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:35 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
What do you mean by a "tire iron"? This meant a lever used to take a tire off a wheel, or put one on, but a modern trailer owner is unlikely to carry one of these (and you usually need two, anyway). If you mean a wrench intended for wheel nuts, the most effective type is the x-shaped design (or "cross wrench" or "cross style lug wrench" or "spider type lug wrench"); the classic one-piece wrench is too short and to hard to hold effectively.
Umm 4 Way is what I have heard it called for ever perhaps there is a disconnect due to nomenclature :} Lug Nut Wrenches, Tire Changing Tools, Lug Nut Removers, 4 Way Wrenches, Lug Nut Removal Tools
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:40 PM   #11
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If you carry a length of steel pipe a couple feet long that will fit over the wrench you are using, you can extend it and employ the lever principle.
True, but I think a wrench handle of proper length is safer than a makeshift snipe... and not expensive.
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:46 PM   #12
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Cheater bars are standard in hot rod tool boxes. I've got a piece of water pipe about 1-1/2 feet long. It's one of things that you may not need often, but when you need it... you NEED it.
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:49 PM   #13
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I use a 24" breaker bar and socket on the road, at home its an 1/2" impact and re-torque to 110LBS.
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:51 PM   #14
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I think tire irons are the devices used to remove the tire from the rim. A pry bar.
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:56 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I think tire irons are the devices used to remove the tire from the rim. A pry bar.
This is what I have always know as a tire iron. One end for lug nuts the other for removing hub caps or popping the bead of the rim.
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGDriver View Post
This is what I have always know as a tire iron. One end for lug nuts the other for removing hub caps or popping the bead of the rim.
and for self defense if needed…..
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:09 PM   #17
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I use a telescoping half-inch drive ratchet from Harbor Freight for my Andersen WDH and lug nuts. It collapses enough to fit in a small toolbox and extends an additional six inches for enough leverage to loosen everything (so far, at least). Inexpensive too.
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:10 PM   #18
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That L-shape is the type of wrench that can be extended with a length of pipe for more leverage. Should check to see if the WDH pry lever would fit over the end of the handle.
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:11 PM   #19
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Everyone can make their own choices, but I choose to use the right tool to do the job safely and effectively... for only a few dollars.: 1/2 in. dr x 25 in. Breaker Bar My guess would be that it even weighs less than the bits of scrap that it would take to work around not having the right $15 tool.
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:12 PM   #20
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Here's Wiki definition:
A tire iron (also tire lever or tyre lever) is a specialized metal tool used in working with tires.
Tire irons have not been in common use for automobile tires since the shift to the use of tubeless tires in the late 1950s. The term is occasionally mistakenly used to refer to a lug wrench (esp. US),[citation needed] which is included along with a spare tire and jack on most new cars.

Tire irons usually come in pairs, or threes, and are used to pry the edge of a tire away from the rim of the wheel it has been mounted on. After one iron has pried a portion of the tire from its wheel, it is held in position while a second iron is applied further along the tire to pry more of the tire away from the wheel. This allows enough of the tire to be separated so that the first iron can be removed, and used again on the far side of the other iron. Alternating in this way, a person can work his way all the way around the tire to fully remove it from the wheel, in order to reach the tube that sits inside.
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