Winterizing question and unknown hose hookup

[cpaharley2008]

I managed to raise the mattress and keep it supported today while I removed the plywood over the pump on the Escape 19'. My intention was to install a winterizing hose but upon inspection of the tight fitting pump area, wires and tubing of unknown diameter I decided to use Tammy's method #2 and merely drain the system without adding antifreeze. This will allow some limited winter use. I also planned on installing an accumulator tank on the output from the pump.
However I noticed the pump exit hose line terminates at a brass fitting coming up from the floor that appears to be attached to the PEX lines but also it goes down into the floor and what?
Isn't my fresh tank located under there and why would the pump be pumping water back into the tank? The fitting is in the floor right where the flexible from the pump attaches to the PEX supply to rest of trailer? Can anyone explain where the other part of this brass T fitting goes to or is coming from? thanx

[dave macrae]

Jim, I installed a fresh water bypass line into my 19 ft recently. the clear water line going into the drivers side of the pump is the inlet and due to the tight space I had to cut this line and get brass barb fittings from the homedepot that threaded onto the valve for the bypass hose. Then I clamped the hose onto the barb fittings with worn gear clamps. This is only drawing water from the tank so it is not pressurized so I felt the worn gear clamps would be fine.

[PGDriver]

Hi Jim

There is always this option, its a pump that pumps the antifreeze in through the city water connection, can't get much easier then that.
Its called the Aqua Pro Pump Kit:- http://www.go-rv.com/coast/do/catalo...62&pageNum=-60
Hope this helps
Doug

[hippo]

One line I think goes out of the pump is the low point drain. Under the trailer it is located by the water tank.
Chuck

[Jim Bennett]

All I ever do is to use the low point drain (the line indicated by Chuck). Works great. Can't see any reason to do anything else.

Just before our last trip I did the sound dampening output line (including additional foam padding under the pump), changed out the pump intake line to a reinforced one, and added an accumulator tank.

The pump is quite a bit quieter, and we get at least two evening flushes with the pump off due to the accumulator tank.

A fairly easy job to do.

Please excuse the crappy cell phone shots.





BTW, because the hose kit came with two hoses, and only one is needed, I have an extra flex hose I will send out to the first person who PM's me there address.

[cpaharley2008]

So you removed the pump off the refer wall, installed your accumulator there and put the pump on the floor? Seem's easy enough. My plumbing is a little different but I'm talking about that piece that disappears thru the floor, is that the low point drain? Is there another one for the hot water lines? I guess it is time to start crawling underneath.

[Jim Bennett]

Yeah, that is what I did. And yes, that line that goes through the floor is the low point drain. Hot and cold both will drain back with the water heater bypassed, you just have to drain the water heater separately as you would with any winterizing method.

[cpaharley2008]

Okay, just returned from outside, I have my fresh tank valve and one pipe with a screw on, I assume this is the low point drain. I have the foam package so everything is covered underneath except for the tank valve and this one pipe with a screw on cap. This is my low point drain? Is this for both hot and cold or is there another one underneath the foam some where?

[cpaharley2008]

Okay, this is all now making sense, one low point drain for the entire trailer, hot/cold and one drain for fresh tank. Gotcha, thanks

[fudge_brownie]

On my winterizing list I have some additional steps, perhaps you are already doing these:

- Remove the hot water anode rod, inspect, drain, flush with hose and reinsert with teflon tape.
- Run pump for 30 seconds with low point drain open.

I do not beleive the hot water tank will drain without removing the anode rod.

I have attached my complete instructions in .pdf, the source is Reace and the instructions describe the second of two methods.

[cpaharley2008]

Thanks, Paul, I saved it.
I guess it would help to make the trailer higher in the front while draining.

[cpaharley2008]

Jim,
If you turn on the pump during the winterizing process will it pump the water from your accumulator also? There may be some residual in that tank, is that possible?

[Jim Bennett]

I too do what Paul does, drain the water heater, but I only run the pump for a few seconds, as that is all I find it takes to clear the water out of it.

have not yet winterized my trailer, as I just got back from a long trip yesterday, but the accumulator tank really does not hold much for water with no pressure on the system, and I installed it so the water will just drain right out anyway.

I did once try to blow out the lines as well, after I did the draining, but found I only got a wee spit of water anyway, not near enough to hurt the water lines when freezing.

[fudge_brownie]

Jim,
I think a level trailer would be best. My understanding is Reace designed all the lines to make this process easier, looking at the fresh water tank (about the only thing one can visually see water) it seems to be designed to drain best when level.

[escape artist]

Hi: cpaharley2008... Don't forget to release the one way valve behind the sediment screen in the city water hose hookup. Take out the screen then look up the connection for a little white plunger. Push it in with your finger and water will surely come out and down your arm!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[thoer]

Originally Posted by Paul Braun

On my winterizing list I have some additional steps, perhaps you are already doing these:

- Remove the hot water anode rod, inspect, drain, flush with hose and reinsert with teflon tape.
- Run pump for 30 seconds with low point drain open.

I do not beleive the hot water tank will drain without removing the anode rod.

I have attached my complete instructions in .pdf, the source is Reace and the instructions describe the second of two methods.

Thanks for that Paul

One step I would add would be to flush out the hot water heater. Each year I have done that has washed out a significant amount of what i assume is precipitated calcium. I just stick the 1/2" clear plastic tube with a hose adapter on it (that I use on the end of my hose to fill the fresh water tank) into the tank after removing the anode rod and blast it out.

Speaking of the anode rod, I am attaching a couple of pictures of how mine looks like this year. With the steel inner rod still intact I assume it is safe to keep using? Any thoughts on that?

[gbaglo]

My anode looks like that. I took it to my local RV shop to see if I should replace it ( after four years with the trailer ) and was told it had plenty of life left.

baglo

[thoer]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

My anode looks like that. I took it to my local RV shop to see if I should replace it ( after four years with the trailer ) and was told it had plenty of life left.

baglo

Thanks Glenn - I assumed that would be the case as the steel inner wire seems strong still and there is a lot of sacrificial material left on it.

Eric

[thoer]

One other change I forgot the mention, that I make to Paul's excellent checklist is with the RV antifreeze, since it needs to be in the drains and toilet anyway. After doing all the draining etc., I pour 1.5 US gal of antifreeze into the fresh water tank; close off the flow to the hot water heater; then use the pump to put the antifreeze into the toilet and sink drains. That way I don't worry that any water is trapped anywhere, especially in the pump.

[Devil Dog]

Oh, and don't forget to winterize the generator with some fuel treatment.
Then run if for about 10 min.