19' Front Window Reset Help

[NorCal Ellen]

We have an older edition, 2009, E19 that we’re currently making updates on. One issue is when in heavy rain, or driving in rain, our front window (with the rock guard) leaks on the inside of the trailer. It just drips down at the base of the window right past the table and onto the floor.
We’d, I mean dear husband Bret, would like to pull the window and reset it. Does anybody have any tips, videos, proven suggestions, tools/etc, that they could offer up before we proceed?
Many thanks, Ellen & Bret

 

[HABBERDABBER]

First, check to see if there are drain holes at the exterior bottom edge.....slits in the window frame. Blow or clean out any debris. The seal to the trailer body may be a foam gasket or something else.
On a Casita I had, I resealed by removing the frames and replacing old foam gaskets with buytl rubber tape.
Others may have direct knowledge of this vintage E19 construction and advice.

 

[NorCal Ellen]

First, check to see if there are drain holes at the exterior bottom edge.....slits in the window frame. Blow or clean out any debris. The seal to the trailer body may be a foam gasket or something else.
On a Casita I had, I resealed by removing the frames and replacing old foam gaskets with buytl rubber tape.
Others may have direct knowledge of this vintage E19 construction and advice.

Many thanks, I’ll mention that to Bret.

 

[occer]

Here is a thread that might be worth reading.

2ng generation front window sealant

My trailer has the frameless thermal awning windows, but on the front window which is conventional, there is no butyl tape around the window. There is some sealant across the top, but the sides and bottom are unsealed or have no sealant showing? I found a puddle of water inside, under the front...

www.escapeforum.org

 

[NorCal Ellen]

First, check to see if there are drain holes at the exterior bottom edge.....slits in the window frame. Blow or clean out any debris. The seal to the trailer body may be a foam gasket or something else.
On a Casita I had, I resealed by removing the frames and replacing old foam gaskets with buytl rubber tape.
Others may have direct knowledge of this vintage E19 construction and advice.

Bret just checked the vent holes, but there aren’t any on our ‘09. Hmm, now what to do? I did read the thread that occer added in his reply, but found nothing that seemed to fit our situation.

Hoping others will weigh in….

 

[Ron in BC]

There's two approaches. One is face sealing. That would be running a bead of sealant around the edge of the window frame. It might stop the leak but I'd only view it as a temporary fix.

The joint between the window frame and the f.g. is a compression seal if a gasket was used. You could very carefully snug up on the interior screws and see if any move much. But you have to be very careful with them. Over tightening them could strip them leading to a new problem.

The new type bathroom window that I just installed didn't come with a gasket and I installed it the same way that I've installed windows in boats for many years and never had a leak. I used thin butyl tape. I run an external bead of sealant across the top as ETI does.

Ron

 

[HABBERDABBER]

Ron's observations and advice are "spot on". And I have stripped mounting screws on my old Casita, over tightening them, as the frames are soft aluminum, and thin stock.
With butyl tape, you seat the window, tighten some, come back in a day or 2, lightly tighten a teensy bit more and trim away excess and squeezed out butyl tape.
Search for a U-tube video on butyl tape application. Cleaning both surfaces is always important.

 

[Fender]

I run an external bead of sealant across the top as ETI does.

Ron

Ron, my 2022 Escape doesn't have any external sealant on the windows which is different from any RV I've ever owned. These all had a bead of sealant across the top and part way down the sides.
I had questioned this on the forum in the past and others believed that the external bead is not necessary. I've been sceptical of that and thought of doing it if only for peace of mind!

 

[Ron in BC]

I've installed lots of these types of windows over the years and never added an external bead of sealant. Just butyl tape, one and done.

Both my Escapes came with the top bead of sealant but I don't believe that it's really necessary. Doesn't hurt but I've never had a leak without it. I only did it on my recent install because I had it and it matches the other windows, not that anyone besides me would ever notice.

Ron

 

[NorCal Ellen]

Thank you Ron in BC. My husband, Bret, climbed up on a ladder to inspect the window yesterday and said that there was a bead of sealant around the top/sides of the window, but it was missing on the passenger side by a couple inches. He said there was a definite gap, so that’s where we’re going to begin our efforts. I’m going to see how deep it is, clean it well, and then apply a sealant (silicone?) to that section. Then let it dry and test with a hose. It seems to only leak during a heavy/driivng rain or when driving in rain.
Thoughts on our plan?
We’re really hoping to not have to remove and reset the whole dual pane window. It long ago lost its seal and is foggy, but we hope to address that perhaps next year, and several of our windows have lost their seals as well. Like I mentioned, it’s an ‘09 so I guess that’s not a big surprise, but is a big chunk of change.

 

[SRS]

DON'T use silicone, DonaD will be very upset. I use Proflex RV (link below) which is what ETI recommended to me. Silicone can create big problems and is a bear to remove.

Amazon.com

 

[HABBERDABBER]

It's not advised by many to use silicone. It contaminates surfaces such that other films do not bond in those areas.
Off hand, I'd suggest a urethane based sealant. There are RV sealants geared towards your needs.

 

[Ron in BC]

ETI now only runs the sealant over the top and down the sides a bit. I don't know if they were running it all around when your trailer was built.

Certainly using a very thin probe and finding out if it goes in more than an 1/8" or 1/4" might tell you if the original sealant has a gap.

DonnaD is very sensitive when it comes to the word "silicone". And for good reason, there's far better sealants available now.

Ron

 

[Donna D.]

I’m going to see how deep it is, clean it well, and then apply a sealant (silicone?) to that section.

Accccck no, no, no! No silicone, EVER on the exterior of your trailer!

 

[occer]

Plus (what is it 5 or 6)
No silicone.

Maybe it should be a sticky never silicone!

 

[NorCal Ellen]

Yes mam, Donna, no silicone, promise. Could be I spoke out of turn, but will make sure we don’t use the wrong thing. Going to buy the correct stuff now.

Picture me bowing and walking out of the room in shame.

 

[HABBERDABBER]

Tisk....tisk. No silicone caulk on Escapes.....never, ever.
I've had silicone spray, transferred from a vacuum wand brush onto a piece, a wood front storage box I'd built. The varnish would bubble at the infected areas, just about no matter what I tried to clean with. A spray of fast drying shellac in those areas covered them, and then I could varnish.

 

[Ron in BC]

Yes mam, Donna, no silicone, promise. Could be I spoke out of turn, but will make sure we don’t use the wrong thing. Going to buy the correct stuff now.

Picture me bowing and walking out of the room in shame.

Tisk....tisk. No silicone caulk on Escapes.....never, ever.
I've had silicone spray, transferred from a vacuum wand brush onto a piece, a wood front storage box I'd built. The varnish would bubble at the infected areas, just about no matter what I tried to clean with. A spray of fast drying shellac in those areas covered them, and then I could varnish.

I use this for all situations where silicone may have contaminated a surface.

Ron

 

[iamunique127]

I use this for all situations where silicone may have contaminated a surface.

Ron

Excellent info, thanks.

 

[BobG-ESC]

It's not advised by many to use silicone. It contaminates surfaces such that other films do not bond in those areas.
Off hand, I'd suggest a urethane based sealant. There are RV sealants geared towards your needs.

Urethane is adhesive, not a sealant. I'm assuming a sealant is like a caulk, intended to seal a space? A urethane adhesive like 3M 5200 would also seal the joint but the joint would be very difficult to take apart, it would have to be cut apart. Since the window is put together with mechanical connections, I would use a caulk or butyl tape or whatever is recommended by Escape. An adhesive is not necessary.