2014 5.0TA bought used

shlm2umac

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Nooksack
Hello, I just bought my first Escape. It’s a pre-owned 2014 5.0 TA, I’m quite pleased with it and am looking to add some new features such as tires, air conditioning and a cover. I really want the cover from Escape but they seem not to have any. I hope I can get one soon. Also, tires here in the US are crazy expensive. Would like to purchase from an RV tire store in Abbotsford which is 20 minutes from where I live, If anyone knows of a good RV tire store I’d love to know. I have found a guy in Ferndale to put the air conditioner in. He suggested a 15,000 btu because we’re taking our Escape to Austin, Texas. I was wanting a 13,500 Coleman Mach that Escape is now using. Mainly because it seems like a 15,000 would use up all my power pretty quickly, but I really don’t know anything so I’m open for advice on this too. I probably should be posting this stuff elsewhere since this is for introductions,
.

It’s my husband and I. He’s got Cancer. But we plan on taking that ride down to Texas at a snails pace to enjoy the country we’ve lived in all our lives.
Barry & Marjorie
 
Check out the Houghton AC units from Recpro. I have the 13,500 with optional heat Pump in my 5.0 , but I live in the deep south. A 9500 unit may work well for you .Quieter than the Coleman or Dometic units. No interior thermostat installation need, they come with remote and also can be operated by controls on the unit inside.

I'm assuming your unit,being older is prewired for AC like newer versions? If so, simple installation
 
The 9500 will work great we live in Texas and it keeps our 21 very cool on a 104 degree day keeps our 21 at 74 to 76 in the sun. We replaced the dometic with the 9500. Very quite
 
Hello, I just bought my first Escape. It’s a pre-owned 2014 5.0 TA, I’m quite pleased with it and am looking to add some new features such as tires, air conditioning and a cover. I really want the cover from Escape but they seem not to have any. I hope I can get one soon. Also, tires here in the US are crazy expensive. Would like to purchase from an RV tire store in Abbotsford which is 20 minutes from where I live, If anyone knows of a good RV tire store I’d love to know. I have found a guy in Ferndale to put the air conditioner in. He suggested a 15,000 btu because we’re taking our Escape to Austin, Texas. I was wanting a 13,500 Coleman Mach that Escape is now using. Mainly because it seems like a 15,000 would use up all my power pretty quickly, but I really don’t know anything so I’m open for advice on this too. I probably should be posting this stuff elsewhere since this is for introductions,
.

It’s my husband and I. He’s got Cancer. But we plan on taking that ride down to Texas at a snails pace to enjoy the country we’ve lived in all our lives.
Barry & Marjorie

Unless you have a very large battery bank with extensive solar recharging capability, it is unlikely that you will be able to use your air conditioner unless the trailer is plugged into a campground AC power source, so the BTU's of your air conditioner should not be of concern relative to power consumption.
 
How about a generator? Or what battery size would be better. I think this one had just the basic. I have to have an AC, and can’t always count on plugging in. Thank you for your insights.
 
What year is yours. I don’t want to make the mistake of putting one in that’s too big. From another post, it looks like I’m going to have to purchase better batteries to even run when we’re not connected.
 
How about a generator? Or what battery size would be better. I think this one had just the basic. I have to have an AC, and can’t always count on plugging in. Thank you for your insights.
Just some general comments upon reading this thread:

It takes a very substantial amount of battery storage, along with an equally substantial solar charging array/controller, plus a DC>AC inverter of adequate capacity in order to support 'round-the-clock' operation of an air conditioner having ~9~10k BTU rating absent shore power or a generator. The sizing of the various components will depend on the total load (the particular AC unit plus other loads you may want to concurrently support). None of the various battery / solar / inverter options offered by ETI in the past or present are scaled to meet this demand.

While this can perhaps be accomplished the effort and expense is significant, it is far from a simple undertaking IMO. A few folks have undertaken the challenge of the required modifications on an Escape trailer, but it is not at all common. Most folks lack a necessity for air conditioning absent shore-power and find the effort and expense is not worthwhile for the 'convenience' of that 'luxury'. I understand that in your case 'round-the-clock air conditioning' may indeed fall in the category of a 'necessity'.

IMO based on your posts it strikes me that your likely most practical solution for 'round-the-clock' AC absent shore-power hookup would be an appropriate external generator. Again, the needed generator size / capacity rating will depend on the specific AC and other loads you impose but there are several threads here addressing that topic. You might get by with a generator as small as ~2200 Watts nominal rating or might need larger.

A generator cannot be installed within the Escape 5.0 itself, it would need to be either carried in your tow vehicle or perhaps, again with modification effort, might be carried on the trailer's rear bumper (bumper modification may be needed to do that). A propane-fueled (as opposed to gasoline-fueled) generator might be an option with its own set of pros-and-cons.

Other considerations when anticipating 'round-the-clock' operation of a generator include its fuel-tank run-time, the need to carry additional fuel, and the fact that some / many camping locations may limit generator operation to specified hours (in consideration of providing 'quiet hours' for others in the campground). There's also the weight of the generator itself to consider, both from the standpoint of vehicle loading and handling the generator at camping locations.

If you want to pursue this you may benefit from starting a new thread specific to the topic of supporting your 'round-the-clock' air conditioning needs with a generator.

All just one person's thoughts for your consideration. I wish you the best in your endeavors.
 
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One other option if you don't have your tow vehicle already is the onboard power that is an option on the Ford F150 hybrid model. It offers 7,000 watts and would be much less conspicuous or obnoxious than a portable generator anywhere generators are prohibited after a certain hour at night, or anywhere it just wouldn't be ok to run a generator.

It's my understanding the electric load runs off the trucks hybrid battery and the truck starts periodically to keep the battery charged. The truck running at idle is much quieter than any portable generator and is something you could probably get away with.

Downside of course is the high purchase price but its just not feasible to expect to run a portable generator all night long. Campgrounds with an electrical hook up are probably your best option.
 
There’s a lot riding on your tires. More than just a slogan. So think twice about cutting corners on the cost of tires. Buy the best you can. That’s my advice for this post. Sometimes you just can’t quite do what you planned on doing. YMMV
Iowa Dave
 
... but its just not feasible to expect to run a portable generator all night long. ...
Actually it's 'mechanically feasible' IF the local etiquette allows.

I've run companion-paired Honda EU 2000i generator/inverters non-stop 24/7 for up to 5 days using and refilling an extended-run external fuel-tank setup. That to power the AC and microwave in my Casita trailer sitting in motorcycle race event paddocks where the constant sound of RV generators is normal, expected, and allowed.

I did that at 10+ race events per year for 10 years from 2006-2016 and those Honda generators are still with me running fine. ;)

But yeah, I agree, that's not the etiquette / rule at most recreational RV-ing sites. :nonono:
 
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Exactly, didn't mean you couldn't just that in real life camping situations it wouldn't work out and your neighbors would be hating on you. :thumb:
 
Exactly, didn't mean you couldn't just that in real life camping situations it wouldn't work out and your neighbors would be hating on you. :thumb:

When it is 100F in Texas, nobody cares about generator noise (the reasonable kind of gen)
 
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There’s a lot riding on your tires. More than just a slogan. So think twice about cutting corners on the cost of tires. Buy the best you can. That’s my advice for this post. Sometimes you just can’t quite do what you planned on doing. YMMV
Iowa Dave

+1 on this.

And, you don't need an "RV tire" place. You need a place that sells the trailer tires you want. Usually anywhere with "RV" in the name is just more expensive for just about anything you need for a trailer. Tires, brakes, wheel bearings, etc......any decent "trailer" place can handle all that easy, and usually cheaper (and usually better) than an "RV" place.

Got a Discount Tire around? I have had great service from them and they are nationwide.
 
A quote I got to install a Coleman 13.5 was $2200+. Is that high, given that the installation is simple. He put in 3.5 hours of labor and his costs were fair per hour. Less than other places, anyhow.

Now I'm noticing that I need to think about my power. I have dual 6 volt batteries and no solar panels. Help!
 
Now I'm noticing that I need to think about my power. I have dual 6 volt batteries and no solar panels. Help!

As Centex posted. #7 wrote. His explaination is very good.

My 2 cents
Air conditioners are large energy drains requiring 30 amps minimum running for any duration will take a lot of batteries and / or a lot of solar panels.
Using an air conditioner without shore power is probably not in the cards.
You will need a generator to run the air conditioner , most campground do not allow generators at night (quite hours).
 
Depending upon where you’re camped, the Maxfan and a second 12 volt fan like an “Endless Breeze” can be used to move a lot of air in the trailer if you don’t have shore power or a generator. Where humidity is low but it’s hot, it usually cools down pretty quickly after the sun goes down. Where it’s hot and humid, comfortable sleeping can be a challenge, that’s when shore power is really appreciated. If you have an adequately sized generator it’s usually acceptable to run them till 8 or 10 PM. We have done that, putting the AC on max to cool and dehumidify the trailer with the windows closed then shutting off rhe generator and going to bed with a cool trailer. Where we camp it’s usually pretty reasonable by 10 PM to Midnight for getting into a good sleep mode. “”No cooking in the trailer at dinner time helps too”
Iowa Dave
 
As Centex posted. #7 wrote. His explaination is very good.

My 2 cents
Air conditioners are large energy drains requiring 30 amps minimum running for any duration will take a lot of batteries and / or a lot of solar panels.
Using an air conditioner without shore power is probably not in the cards.
You will need a generator to run the air conditioner , most campground do not allow generators at night (quite hours).


Yes, on AC & batteries, not happening. Centex put it all pout there. The only way to have a AC NOT on shore power, would be to run on a Generator. (I'd really look at the Houghtons, if you need a AC unit, cost the same or less. They have a 13.5K) https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-condi...5k-quiet-ac-with-heat-pump-remote-non-ducted/) More than a few here have switched to them. A few here, me too, will be carrying the small quiet Honda EU2200e, with added easystart to the AC. I figure to just use enough to cool down the trailer in the evening. Should be OK the rest of the night. BUT, I like it warm, so depends on you. You'll need the batteries for running lights, Fan, water pump, Frig, etc. And with out solar to recharge?.............. Some solar can be added, or even the portable units, by someone who KNOWS what they are doing. On tires most everyone is running on Goodyear Endurance, can be picked up or ordered by ANY tire Place. Call a head, as many just don't carry a lot of stock now days.
 
A lot of folks have gone with the 2200 watt Honda. Others have purchased more Economical units but 2200 to 2500 watts are about the minimum for a single unit. The Micro air easy start is a device that lets the air conditioner start easier and doesn’t let the locked rotor In the AC unit trip your EMS device and lets the AC start right up. This has been the experience of (my estimate) of about 90% of Escape owners. Generators are nice to have if you need one. You’ll also need a neutral bonding plug on one outlet of your generator. It’s a low cost little plug that’s easily purchased. About $15.
YMMV
Iowa Dave
 
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