2014 Classic 5.0 TA Door Handle Question

[sleepy]

Hi,

I have a 2014 Classic 5.0 TA- with the curved body. I am the original owner.

I'm looking for some thoughts and suggestions. I would like to install a '

Stromberg Carlson AM-800 Black Lend-A-Hand Foam Grip'​

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003YJNY9I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&th=1

Basically an exterior handle to make it easier to get into the trailer.

I think it'd best to mount it slightly to the left of the door. And probably below the belt line- though I haven't worked that out.

The interior part of the mounting would go into the fiberglass pillar- between the door frame and the kitchen counter- the pillar looks to be about 4" deep and 3" wide.

Do you know if the pillar is hollow ? or has a wood backer or filler? The construction photos I have don't show that area.

If it's hollow then I have the challenge of accessing the inside-

I have the idea of adding an additional RV light switch on the pillar. Cutting the hole for that switch would give me access to the inside of the pillar. Then I'd use backing plates, and suitable lock nuts.

If the pillar is solid, then I think a combination suitable coarse threaded screws would work.

Additionally because of the curve of the classic trailer, I'd need to make a suitable filet/backing plate for the mounting blocks of the handle.

I look forward to your thoughts.

Many thanks

Sleepy

 

[Ron in BC]

I can tell you for sure that the pillar is hollow, not solid.

The only caution would be to drill with care, there may be wires running up to your porch light.

The bases for the grab bar have mounting holes offset from center. That's good because if gives more side-to-side rigidity to them. I think that metal drywall anchors, the kind that have "legs" that expand when the bolt is tightened would be adequate. 4 of them would provide quite a bit of strength.

Ron

 

[iamunique127]

Some ppl here have changed their grab handles and have posted how-to's. They may be within other threads. Sorry, I don't have any of them Bookmarked. Have you used the forum Search function for the topic?

 

[Centex]

Some ppl here have changed their grab handles and have posted how-to's. They may be within other threads.

This post might be one of those you are recalling, but it's on a 'flat-side' 2021 Escape, the door pillar looks very different from the one pictured above so is likely of little or no value for the OP's situation.

I could be wrong but I don't recall reading of anyone swapping the grab-handle on a curved-side Escape. Good Luck with the search for pertinent info!

 

[sleepy]

I can tell you for sure that the pillar is hollow, not solid.

The only caution would be to drill with care, there may be wires running up to your porch light.

The bases for the grab bar have mounting holes offset from center. That's good because if gives more side-to-side rigidity to them. I think that metal drywall anchors, the kind that have "legs" that expand when the bolt is tightened would be adequate. 4 of them would provide quite a bit of strength.

Ron

Thanks Ron. I'll try and use a endoscope to view the inside of the pillar before I drill holes from the outside.

Some ppl here have changed their grab handles and have posted how-to's. They may be within other threads. Sorry, I don't have any of them Bookmarked. Have you used the forum Search function for the topic?

Thanks iamunique127 for the suggestion. I did search and couldn't find any.

This post might be one of those you are recalling, but it's on a 'flat-side' 2021 Escape, the door pillar looks very different from the one pictured above so is likely of little or no value for the OP's situation.

I could be wrong but I don't recall reading of anyone swapping the grab-handle on a curved-side Escape. Good Luck with the search for pertinent info!

Thanks Centex for comments. I reviewed your posts too. Including falling down the rabbit hole looking at SS handles on marine sites. So many possibilities.

 

[Ron in BC]

This post might be one of those you are recalling, but it's on a 'flat-side' 2021 Escape, the door pillar looks very different from the one pictured above so is likely of little or no value for the OP's situation.on

I've owned both a Gen1 and a Gen2 Escape. The door pillar is substantially similar in construction in that it's a vertical hollow space. I'm not sure that the slightly curved surface of a Gen1 is enough to affect anything. The handle could be purchased, held up in place and the suitability established before any work is done. Worst case, it gets returned.

Ron

 

[Centex]

The door pillar is substantially similar in construction in that it's a vertical hollow space.

That I don't doubt, but the particular techniques I used to invisibly access that hollow space for through-bolting look likely non-applicable.

Were I the OP, I'd be looking at how to remove that (plastic / FG?) interior trim to gain access to the pillar / hollow-space from inside for inspection, and go from there.

The object of the exercise would be to allow installation of through-bolts with washers / nuts, or, ensure that any 'blind screws' installed from the outside do indeed catch solidly in a wood framing member, not too near an edge.

But that's me, YMMV, no worries!

 

[dfandrews]

Here's where ours is. When we picked up our 2015 E17, we asked for an additional handle on the inside, and a few minutes later, here's where one of the workers installed it, with wood screws. They appeared to know exactly where they would hit solid backing.

 

[sameo416]

We installed a stainless sailboat handle on the exterior of our 2021 5.0 in place of the plastic handle. Johnny Hung on Facebook iirc did a post on how he did this.

The pillar is hollow, and backed on the trailer interior by plywood covered with the glued liner. There are a few wires running up inside. One set is large enough AWG to be a power line of some type.

After removing the door frame trim we gently peeling off the liner. I used a hole saw to cautiously cut through the chipboard in the two spots where the top and bottom attachments for the handle would be placed. That gave two portals just large enough to work through.

Fitted the handle, marked the holes and drilled the fiberglass. Chamfered the holes to destress. Installed the handle using machine screws (1/4-20 x 1" stainless), with a large washer on the inside of each to spread the load. Needed some careful finger work through the two portals, but managed not to drop and washers in the void.

I bundled the wires with ties to minimize movement.

Loctite on the bolt/nut interface to ensure it wouldn't back off. Could have used a castellated nut and a cotter pin (or lockwire) but couldn't easily source those.

Reinstalled the cut-out circles and glued in place. Then used spray adhesive to reattach the liner.

 

[Ron in BC]

A very useful and informative post. It'll be a help for others.

Ron

 

[Shadious]

We installed a stainless sailboat handle on the exterior of our 2021 5.0 in place of the plastic handle. Johnny Hung on Facebook iirc did a post on how he did this.

The pillar is hollow, and backed on the trailer interior by plywood covered with the glued liner. There are a few wires running up inside. One set is large enough AWG to be a power line of some type. View attachment 870302View attachment 870303

After removing the door frame trim we gently peeling off the liner. I used a hole saw to cautiously cut through the chipboard in the two spots where the top and bottom attachments for the handle would be placed. That gave two portals just large enough to work through.

Fitted the handle, marked the holes and drilled the fiberglass. Chamfered the holes to destress. Installed the handle using machine screws (1/4-20 x 1" stainless), with a large washer on the inside of each to spread the load. Needed some careful finger work through the two portals, but managed not to drop and washers in the void.

I bundled the wires with ties to minimize movement.
View attachment 870304
Loctite on the bolt/nut interface to ensure it wouldn't back off. Could have used a castellated nut and a cotter pin (or lockwire) but couldn't easily source those.

Reinstalled the cut-out circles and glued in place. Then used spray adhesive to reattach the liner.View attachment 870305

Wow that handle makes such a big difference both visually and functionally! A modification that I did not know I needed until now. I need to stay off these forums

 

[Centex]

We installed a stainless sailboat handle on the exterior of our 2021 5.0 in place of the plastic handle. Johnny Hung on Facebook iirc did a post on how he did this.

That all looks very familiar, here's an example using a handle with a stud to avoid the exposed screw head on the exterior ....

 

[sleepy]

2014 5.0 TA Handles

Thank you for all the suggestions.

Here is the installed outside grab handle, and another pull handle installed on the inside of the door.

The hollow pillar is made of fiberglass. Inside the pillar is a plumbing vent stack (I think the grey water), and some wiring. An endoscopy was used to scope the pillar before the access holes were cut. The scope was put thru the top light switch hole. The cuts were done with a multi tool.

The first three photos show the outside grab handle.
#1 Handle 'extended'. The access to bottom bolts was made thru the light switch shown- on the inside of the hollow pillar.
#2 Then the handle folded flat.

#3 The kitchen photo shows an access hole with cover plate- that was cut to mount a backing plate and nuts for the top of the grab handle.

The last photo shows the inside of the door- this SS handle was purchased at a ship chandlery. To mount the backing nuts, the lockset was removed, and a backing plate and nylocs were used.

Additionally three of the previous handle mounting holes were filled with white epoxy.
When the weather gets warmer, the grab handle wall mounts will get caulked.
The curve of the body doesn't seem to effect the operation of the handle.
Both handles seem very solid.

 

[iamunique127]

Good figuring. Nice clean work.

 

[Ron in BC]

The interior handle will definitely help on doors without friction hinges. On my Gen1 I don't know how many times I had to tenuously and quickly grab the little door latch to avoid the wind from whipping the door wide open.

Ron