2021 pricing and options

Obviously a mfg would not refer to their product by another's name.
Not when they're competing products, but - for instance - lots of companies say that their products include "teflon" when they don't actually use the Teflon brand of PTFE. Dow has a similar struggle with misuse (by companies, not just individuals) of "Styrofoam".

I was at my favorite RV dealer in Corpus Christi last month with my old Holiday Rambler and saw a wdh setup I hadn't seen before. Pro something or other but to him it was an equalizer wdh.

"Makes my front load equal to my back load". I didn't pursue that with him.

Edit. It was a ProPride and a really neat looking setup. He said it was $1800.00 or so.
That idiocy of thinking that axle loads should be made equal by a WDH is indeed the origin of the "Equal-i-zer" name... and probably not worth explaining to that guy. :rolleyes:

The ProPride and their "3P" is the "other" brand of a hitch using Jim Hensley's converging-link design; the "original" brand is by Hensley Mfg. (a company named after the inventor of the product even though he was never the owner or founder of the company), who sells variants as the "Arrow" and "Cub". The WD feature is a small part of this enormous pile of hardware, but critical because the hitch moves the effective lateral axis pivot point substantially rearward, making adverse load transfer even worse. I have seen posts in other forums (about the Andersen No-Sway when it was new and controversial) by ProPride's (Sean Woodruff), who is apparently both technically incompetent and a real jerk... but it's just the latest of Jim Hensley's hitch designs, so if you like that it's probably a good hitch.
 
i would go for the fancy oven they are really nice- wish i had one. Maybe they will put one in after market? As to the batteries i will upgrade when my batteries fail. All seem like nice options i too would like cherry but most seem to like the grey colors now...

Are you assuming the oven will be the Dickinson? We were planning on putting the standard oven in our 21C (working on build sheet) but what about that oven makes it $1200 better? We’ve had the RV ovens before and know they aren’t that great. Is it more like a home oven?

Thanks, Jimmy
 
@rubicon327 I am considering ordering a 21 without the ac and will try and install a mini split like you did. I was curious what kind of generator size was needed to run your ac unit? I am living in central texas where its in the 100's for months during the summer. Enjoyed your thread on installing the unit. Looking forward to hearing how you resolved the intermittent loss of refrigerant through the hoses and connections over the long term. My main driver for going mini split was less about noise and more about the possibility of running it off solar eventually via larger battery bank and multiple solar panels.

Simeon: The Fujitsu 9RL2 mini-split is 9,000 BTUH and has a starting current of only 7.5A so easily runs on a Honda EU2000i. Even though the spec sheet says 13A max operating current I have never seen it. The variable speed compressor only works as hard as needed to meet the load. Regarding the loss of refrigerant I put some R-410A in at the 1 year mark (summer 2017) and then again about 2 years later (summer 2019). No problems for the last year since. If it happens again I am going to take the time to go over the system very closely with sniffer, dye, etc. but it’s not really a big deal. The system only holds 1lb 7oz of refrigerant. My guess is a VERY slow leak at the outdoor connections.
 
I just did some looking. The Senville 9k btu, 19 SEER mini split has a large number of good reviews on Amazon. That's a bit more efficient than the Fujitsu.
 
I just did some looking. The Senville 9k btu, 19 SEER mini split has a large number of good reviews on Amazon. That's a bit more efficient than the Fujitsu.

Mike: True that it is a bit more efficient. Same with Pioneer. Trouble is the front profile of the inside unit is different regarding air supply. Joel who followed my lead with a Pioneer had to notch his cabinet and could only recess 3.5”. I’ve recessed both of my installs a full 5” with only a few inches protruding from cabinet face. I’m completely in the cabinet with no rear mounting plate used. Looks cleaner in my opinion. The outdoor units on the higher SEER get bigger and heavier. Also I wanted a name brand unit. I’m comfortable with the quality of Fujitsu from their use in commercial setting. Lots to consider...
 

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I'm confused, I thought that all the current owners of the 11,500 but a/c felt it was too loud....as well as too large for a small trailer. Why increase the cooling capacity to 13,500??
 
I'm confused, I thought that all the current owners of the 11,500 but a/c felt it was too loud....as well as too large for a small trailer. Why increase the cooling capacity to 13,500??

Jim: I probably didn’t say it very well back in post #79 but the Coleman NDQ should be a little quieter than the Dometic even though it is is higher BTU. My concern is that an oversized unit will cool the trailer too quickly and won’t dehumidify well for those in humid areas.
 
Not when they're competing products, but - for instance - lots of companies say that their products include "teflon" when they don't actually use the Teflon brand of PTFE. Dow has a similar struggle with misuse (by companies, not just individuals) of "Styrofoam".


That idiocy of thinking that axle loads should be made equal by a WDH is indeed the origin of the "Equal-i-zer" name... and probably not worth explaining to that guy. :rolleyes:

The ProPride and their "3P" is the "other" brand of a hitch using Jim Hensley's converging-link design; the "original" brand is by Hensley Mfg. (a company named after the inventor of the product even though he was never the owner or founder of the company), who sells variants as the "Arrow" and "Cub". The WD feature is a small part of this enormous pile of hardware, but critical because the hitch moves the effective lateral axis pivot point substantially rearward, making adverse load transfer even worse. I have seen posts in other forums (about the Andersen No-Sway when it was new and controversial) by ProPride's (Sean Woodruff), who is apparently both technically incompetent and a real jerk... but it's just the latest of Jim Hensley's hitch designs, so if you like that it's probably a good hitch.

I'll stick with my Equal-i-Zer's. Been using them for years. I use a 1000 on my Escape. Don't really need that much but I already had it. Feels like a very solid unit (truck and trailer) moving down the road.

They're getting heavier every day!
 
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Yes, exactly Dave. The larger units will recycle too much, on and off vs running for awhile to reach the set point. Similar to having 435hp in a small car, it will move you quicker but sometimes slower is more refreshing and enjoyable.
 
Would appreciate a link or post in this thread if/when anyone runs-across pics or final brand/model number info on the new-for-2021 flush-oven and compressor-reefer options.

Just curious, sub'd to follow, thanks! :)

(sorry, I'm not on any of the Escape 'social media' info-sources)
 
For those who might not have noticed, Escape has modified their Build Your Escape form to offer pricing for 1, 2, 3 or 4 100aH Lithium batteries (I only looked at the 5.0 form). Brand not provided.

They have now identified the Coleman A/C model family (Mach 10)

No new details yet on the flush mount oven or a compressor refrigerator for the 5.0
 
For those who might not have noticed, Escape has modified their Build Your Escape form to offer pricing for 1, 2, 3 or 4 100aH Lithium batteries (I only looked at the 5.0 form). Brand not provided.

Open the wallet! Glad to see Escape taking the initiative to figure out how to install and now offer lithium. It is currently on the build forms for all models.
 

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For those who might not have noticed, Escape has modified their Build Your Escape form to offer pricing for 1, 2, 3 or 4 100aH Lithium batteries (I only looked at the 5.0 form). Brand not provided.

I hope they come up with the details soon: charger, converter, inverter, BMS, how it works with solar, etc. Brands, models, too.
I assume 100Ah would support full load of 1500W inverter.
 
I hope they come up with the details soon
You won't want to miss the September 29th Livestream. Maybe not all the detail you'll want, but surely lots to learn in the agenda item "all the 2021 options" :)

I assume 100Ah would support full load of 1500W inverter.
That's always gonna be a function of the actual load you place on the inverter and your expectations for duration of that support (keeping in mind that a 1500W inverter can deliver a much higher rate of draw-down than most single 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries like to see for an extended period) ;)
 
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I hope they come up with the details soon: charger, converter, inverter, BMS, how it works with solar, etc. Brands, models, too.
I assume 100Ah would support full load of 1500W inverter.

It depends on the brand of battery. Some only provide a maximum of 100 amps long term draw per battery, which would require at least 2.
 
My 100AH Lithium is installed and running and except for my solar converter I do not expect any further changes need be made to any standard 2013 built systems I got. That includes the WFCO, and a 600W inverter.
 
My 100AH Lithium is installed and running and except for my solar converter I do not expect any further changes need be made to any standard 2013 built systems I got. That includes the WFCO, and a 600W inverter.

My understanding is that the stock WFCO won't charge lithium battery properly, i.e. as fast as a lithium specific charger. It would still be able to charge lead-acid batteries if needed, though.
 

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