Adding Air Conditioning Q’s….

[Suregrip391]

Hello group,

Asking all of these in reference to an Escape 19

Did they always come pre wired for AC if not factory ordered (all years going back say 2015-present)?

Seems everyone likes the Houghton model for being quiet. Would a 19 be better off with a 9500 BTU or 13,500 BTU, I see they have different weights (80-100 pounds respectively) so will either matter? I never see posts where weight is a concern in regards to AC, maybe I missed those….

Would you get the heat pump as a backup to the Dometic furnace? For redundancy? Is any thing special or extra needed done for an install with a unit using a heat pump?

My understanding is you would just use the factory thermostat for the existing furnace and the new Houghton uses a wireless thermostat to turn it on/off AND it has controls right on the unit to use for AC and the heat pump. No special wiring.

Those that installed there own in a trailer that was ordered without AC, how hard was the install? Was the pre wired wires long enough, any issues? Which model did you buy? Bonus for posting a link to the unit in the event there are choices…

Ohh, do you need the thick roof kit they have an an option?

 

[Rockhead]

Yes they do

 

[yeungfeng]

I have a 19 and had a Houghton 3400 heat pump installed, so I can't help much with installation information. But yes wiring is there. Install is drop in, connect electricity. There are a few step in between;D

The unit comes with a remote and also control from the unit it self I believe, and those control the unit forth AC or heat. If you are staying where there is electricity why use your propane when the electricity is included. the unit requires shore power for either AC or heat, unless you have the lithium batteries and large solar array.

There is an installation that was done by someone here that has a 5.0 with pictures and description of the process. Search for Houghton and you can find it.

 

[sofmerc]

Go with the 9500 model. I believe that model is now available with the heat pump option now too.

 

[vermilye]

My first time experience with a Houghton 9500:

My test was in Washington DC - 104°F when we arrived with an inside temperature of 97°F. From my notes the first day: 3:00 97°F, 3:20 90°F, 3:30 85°F, 4:15 78°F. 4:30 77°F. By 5:30 it reached the set temperature of 72°F with an outside temperature of 99°F. At 8:00 it is still 97°F outside.

I didn't track the humidity, but the outside is 74% and in the trailer it is 40%. The inside temperature is still dropping at the opposite ends of the trailer - 74°F at the head of the bed. The AC is running on automatic - the fan runs in high continuously & the compressor the same until it gets close to the set temperature. By dark it slowed down to low on the fan speed with the compressor running for 3-4 minutes every 10 minutes or so.

 

[Suregrip391]

I started watching some install vids on YouTube and one RV mechanic says she never uses sealant on the gasket to roof and others I’ve watched do. All were installs of the Houghton units. The ones that did use sealant, used self leveling Dicor.

Those that did the install….thoughts on sealant?

 

[Rockhead]

We didn’t use any sealant when we switched out the dometic to a 9500 houghton. Towed thru several rain storms n been in several while setup with no leaks to this date. We’ve had the houghton for 3 1/2 yrs now

 

[Bobbie54]

They did not all come AC ready from the beginning so you need to ask about your particular year, and if not, about the original build sheet as AC-ready was probably an option. My 2011 was not AC-ready. I asked Reece.

 

[Suregrip391]

We didn’t use any sealant when we switched out the dometic to a 9500 houghton. Towed thru several rain storms n been in several while setup with no leaks to this date. We’ve had the houghton for 3 1/2 yrs now

Good to know, thanks!

 

[Donna D.]

They did not all come AC ready from the beginning so you need to ask about your particular year, and if not, about the original build sheet as AC-ready was probably an option. My 2011 was not AC-ready. I asked Reece.

Even later than that, my 2014 didn't either. It cost me $75 to make it A/C ready. I'm guessing not every buyer paid for that option.

 

[Jeremy Kessenich]

I started watching some install vids on YouTube and one RV mechanic says she never uses sealant on the gasket to roof and others I’ve watched do. All were installs of the Houghton units. The ones that did use sealant, used self leveling Dicor.

Those that did the install….thoughts on sealant?

Here is the manual for the install of the 3400:

https://www.recpro.com/content/RP-AC3400 Low Profile 13.5k AC Heat Pump.pdf

On page 10 it describes where to use and what kind of sealant to use. The roof flange is a fairly rigid piece of plastic. The sealant goes between the flange and the roof. The AC unit has a gasket that seals the unit to the flange.

I'll look for the directions when I installed my unit last year. I believe the directions were different for the type of sealant they were recommending.

The roof flange did not cover all the holes from the flange of the roof vent (the flange was smaller than what it was replacing). I can't imagine not putting sealant under the new flange and around the edge of the flange to seal the holes that the new flange didn't cover. YMMV

 

[BritCanuck]

Something to note with the 9500 is to make sure the temperature sensor probe is outside of the internal plenum. I installed a 9500 on our 5.0. Only used it a couple of times but it was cycling on and off a lot, like every few minutes. This is not the desired operation. You have to cut the tie wraps that hold the temp sensor wire inside the plenum and route it out so it's measuring the trailer air temp (and not the inside of the plenum).

 

[Ron in BC]

Even later than that, my 2014 didn't either. It cost me $75 to make it A/C ready. I'm guessing not every buyer paid for that option.

Strange, my 2014 came A/C ready and I didn't pay for it. I do remember some talk around that time that ETI was just making A/C ready a standard item.

Easy to tell for anyone wanting to retrofit a unit. Pull off the panel cover and if you see this, AC Ready, you're good to go. If you pull off the vent trim you'll see the other end.

Ron

 

[Suregrip391]

Those with the houghton heat pump on their AC unit, how well does it work for heating your camper? Is is redundancy for the furnace if the sail switch fails?

 

[CharlesinGA]

Something to note with the 9500 is to make sure the temperature sensor probe is outside of the internal plenum. I installed a 9500 on our 5.0. Only used it a couple of times but it was cycling on and off a lot, like every few minutes. This is not the desired operation. You have to cut the tie wraps that hold the temp sensor wire inside the plenum and route it out so it's measuring the trailer air temp (and not the inside of the plenum).

View attachment 75851

The unit is sucking in the room air, so what difference does it make? Measure the temp of the air just outside the grill or inside it?

I recently installed one and nothing was mentioned about the temp sensor in the instructions. I'm not going to take it back apart unless I see some issue with the operation. I have not had an opportunity to take it out and run it all day however.

Please note, I have a SOB (Some Other Brand) of trailer, see my signature.

As far as the installation, I used a layer of inch wide butyl tape on the bottom of the mounting frame. I didn't care for their suggestion of "self leveling sealant". I then clamped the frame down to the roof with four strong spring clamps and the next day I removed the clamps and masked around the frame leaving about a 3/8 inch wide boundary around it and put a thick filet of GeoCel Pro Seal around the frame and used a tongue depressor to smooth it.

My roof is sunken somewhat from the weight of the Dometic Penguin and I must have got the seal right because it forms a lake when its running but no leaks.

Charles

 

[Jeremy Kessenich]

I have the 3400 and it heats very well. I usually don't have shore power but if I do I'd run the heat pump rather than furnace, unless it's blow freezing. I can't recall what the cut off number is but it's around there. I'm sure someone will chime in. Many people carry a small ceramic heater to use when on shore power. Same idea, why use propane if on shore power?

 

[Ron in BC]

Many people carry a small ceramic heater to use when on shore power.

Not me, gave up tripping over cords and heaters on the floor and installed a built-in heater. Much more civilized especially with an independent accurate thermostat.

Ron

 

[brroberts]

I have a Coleman with the heat strip. If I have an electrical hookup, I use it at least down to 10F. Coleman calls it supplemental heat, but it warms the 19 just fine.

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

we have shore power so rarely that I stopped carrying the ceramic fan heater, and just got used to running the propane furnace. haven't had a sail switch problem since the first few months we got this 2014 E21 (Dec. 2017). I had to pull the furnace twice in those first few months to clean out insulation lint, 2nd time I vacuumed out the whole area under the fridge, furnace, and streetside dinette bench, no problems since. I never replaced the sail switch, just removed the lint from it.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Something to note with the 9500 is to make sure the temperature sensor probe is outside of the internal plenum. I installed a 9500 on our 5.0. Only used it a couple of times but it was cycling on and off a lot, like every few minutes. This is not the desired operation. You have to cut the tie wraps that hold the temp sensor wire inside the plenum and route it out so it's measuring the trailer air temp (and not the inside of the plenum).

View attachment 75851

Ah, slid the filters out tonight and peered thru the slots with a flashlight and spotted the temp probe. It is ty-wrapped to a lug that appears to be especially for it. I'll leave it alone and see how it works over time.

Charles