Are. my flooded batteries dying

[Videocrafters]

I have a 2020 19 with 2 flooded batteries and 1 solar panel. It seems that the batteries are not holding a charge very well any more. They charge up to 12.9 during the day in the sun but by the middle of the night they are down to 12.3. We are in northern Michigan.
We are not large consumers of power. The frig is on gas. Few lights and a moderate amount of water pump.
It used to be the batteries would hold a charge of around 2.5.at night.
Do I need to replace the batteries. It seems like they should last longer.

 

[BravoDeltaRomeo]

How are your water levels?

We have a 2021 with 2 x 6v batteries, 1 x 190w solar and can easily do a week of camping with fridge on Propane.

The batteries had low water levels when we bought it and they weren't holding a charge in driveway during some testing. After I topped them off, they held charge and got to 100% power easily.

 

[wackyburggeezer]

I presume from your post that you are not on 120 volts AC. If your solar panel only charges the batteries to 12.9 during the day, either you have a significant load on the system, or your panel may be blocked for some hours during the day. Assuming that you are not currently camping, try disconnecting the battery switch in the late afternoon, and looking at the battery voltage in the morning. Please let us know what the morning battery voltage reading is after separating the batteries electrically from the possible loads.

 

[HABBERDABBER]

You're in the ballpark of lifespan

Your batteries may be a bit older than the year of your Escape. 4-6 years is a typical lifespan for FLA batteries. Hot climates are a bit tougher on them. Lifespan also depends on their duty cycle. Deep discharges are tougher, and reduces the lifespan, depending on how deep and how often and for how long they are deeply discharged.

You can have them load tested by some battery outfit, and DO check the water level, but sooner or later, you'll need to replace them.

You can chase shadows in the dark with issues in your electrical system, but my thoughts are "nothing is forever, and nothing lasts". 'Tis true, especially, with batteries.

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

with full sun on your solar panels, and a mostly charged battery, and no loads, you should be seeing around 13.6-13.8V. 12.7V or so is the 'at rest' voltage for a flooded lead acid without an active charger.

 

[Videocrafters]

Water levels are full.

 

[Videocrafters]

Camping until 9/21. Will do when we return

 

[HABBERDABBER]

Unclear

Camping until 9/21. Will do when we return

Do what?

 

[Ron in BC]

Do what?

Probably load tested?

That would seem to be the thing to do at this point. Unless he has a multi-meter and goes exploring.

Ron

 

[Randy in Maine]

When you get back to 120 volts, try running a "smart battery charger" on repair or "desulfate" to see if the lead acid batteries can be returned to serviceable for a few more years.

I have one of these that has worked well for a few lead acid batteries. I think it was about $40 on Amazon.

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

When you get back to 120 volts, try running a "smart battery charger" on repair or "desulfate" to see if the lead acid batteries can be returned to serviceable for a few more years.

I have one of these that has worked well for a few lead acid batteries. I think it was about $40 on Amazon.

I already don't trust that charger, the "AGM" indicator is labeled LiFePO4, those are *completely* different things, with rather different optimal charge strategies.

I have a NOCO Genius 10 smart charger, its been quite reliable, can be left on a lead acid batt indefinitely as a battery tender, etc etc. Key feature of a battery tender is when power is interrupted, then comes back on, it stays in battery tender mode without user intervention.

 

[Randy in Maine]

It allows me to select LiPO4 if I need it. I don't think AGM batteries ever sulfate the lead plates either. It really does a number of things including small batteries (like motorcycle or generator batteries).

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

yeah, never use a desulfating cycle on a AGM (or a Lithium). and if you do use desulfating on flooded lead acid batteries, either disconnect them from the trailer, or at least ensure everything DC is switched off and use the battery disconnect switch as the higher than normal voltage used can fry some delicate things like Maxxfans.

 

[Randy in Maine]

yeah, never use a desulfating cycle on a AGM (or a Lithium). and if you do use desulfating on flooded lead acid batteries, either disconnect them from the trailer, or at least ensure everything DC is switched off and use the battery disconnect switch as the higher than normal voltage used can fry some delicate things like Maxxfans.

I unhook both terminals on the battery when in desulfide mode. I have only used it on my wife's 7 year old car battery that now charges up like it should and actually holds a charge. I ran it through about 4 sulfide "repair" modes that each take about 8 or 10 hours. I use it as my trickle charger for the 2 Escape flooded batteries in the winter on my shop bench.

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

you only need to disconnect one terminal, either + or ground to isolate the battery from the trailer, but it doesn't hurt to disconnect both... Obviously(?) with golf cart 6V batts, you leave the 'bonding' wire connected that ties the two 6V in series for 12V.

 

[dscottsmith]

Flooded Batteries

Way to complicated responses unless you are going to change from flooded. Just replace as they only last 4 to 5 years anyway. I did that in my 2019 last year and it immediately started holding the charge longer.