Baffle for 4.3 and 6.7 fridges

[hotfishtacos]

Thanks Jon! I reviewed the instructions and the only thing I would change is adding fiberglass insulation sandwiched between the fiberglass body and the vertical baffle panel. Thanks again!

 

[rbryan4]

This isn't something a novice might want to take on. Glad I don't have to do it.

 

[Jubal]

What is the procedure for the 4.3 frig ?

 

[Kountrykamper]

What is the procedure for the 4.3 frig ?

The same just less insulation because of the cabinets above.

Here is a picture of our fridge (4.3) area before the fridge was installed.

 

[cpaharley2008]

I'm not sure I'm comfortable with doing this, I might have to wait until next year and stop in the factory before going to Osoyoos. We do not have that much hot weather left, I hope and there should not be that much hot weather before the rally, so that is my plan.

 

[Jim Bennett]

I assume this is not applicable to the 5cf fridges? I have not had an issue though, even in hot climates.

Seems like a simple mod with just a few supplies. I would be tempted though, to use a rigid insulation.

 

[hotfishtacos]

Jim, I on the other hand can't wait to get started... One aspect of Reace's design that I don't like is that he hasn't insulated the boxed-in area behind the fridge. He designed the baffle to promote the proper air flow through the coils but that baffle box will still get really hot when it is hot outside with the sun shining on that fiberglass surface. When I do my baffle I plan to use tapered PolyISO insulation board that is designed for commercial roofs. 3.5" of that stuff has R value over 20. I figure that a solid (tapered to fit the curved wall area) baffle made from PolyISO board of the same overall shape proposed by Reace will keep the back of the refrigerator much cooler and result in better overall cooling performance. I will probably also add some high volume cooling fans (my stock fans are noisy) switched inside the trailer and maybe 4 thermocouples with a digital temp display inside so I can measure the temps everywhere in that area. I plan to record all of my work so I can share it later.

I'll be camping for the next few weeks and then get started on this..

Steve

 

[cpaharley2008]

I like the extra 120v outlet back there, I'd be tempted to purchase some 120v fans. install a switch on that outlet and make your own texas fan option while the refer is out.

 

[hotfishtacos]

I like the extra 120v outlet back there, I'd be tempted to purchase some 120v fans. install a switch on that outlet and make your own texas fan option while the refer is out.

But they won't work when boondocking. Some really good 12 volt fans will only draw .1 amps and can run all day...and small 12 volts fans are lower cost and more plentiful because of the PC and electronics business

 

[Kountrykamper]

Keep in mind when doing this mod that if you modify anything on the fridge itself that Dometic will probably be more than happy to void your 2 year warranty should you have a problem with the fridge.

 

[Jubal]

The same just less insulation because of the cabinets above.

Here is a picture of our fridge (4.3) area before the fridge was installed.

The insulation needs to be applied clear to the top vent. If I am going to take up the challenge of doing this mod, the top vent will also be removed to make a complete thermal chimney and add fans just under the top vent. The top vent does not offer much open space in the lovers for air displacement. I am glad that we purchased the 4.3 frig and do not have to deal with the larger option.
May be challenged to convince the beloved wife to help. She believes in the KISS principle which in this case is a well insulated cooler.

 

[Ron in BC]

Jon, thanks for posting the link.

Ditto other comments about taking the opportunity to insulate the exterior side of the cavity.

Re: modifying the fridge and voiding your 2 year warranty. I don't like the weasel warranty provided with these fridges. "2 year warranty" if, big if, you take it to a service center and have it serviced. Otherwise, good luck on getting warranty work in the 2nd year. Don't like warranties like this, to me, it's not a 2 year warranty if you have to spend probably a 100 bucks to keep a warranty valid for the second year. OK, rant over

Ron

 

[hotfishtacos]

Jon, thanks for posting the link.

Ditto other comments about taking the opportunity to insulate the exterior side of the cavity.

Re: modifying the fridge and voiding your 2 year warranty. I don't like the weasel warranty provided with these fridges. "2 year warranty" if, big if, you take it to a service center and have it serviced. Otherwise, good luck on getting warranty work in the 2nd year. Don't like warranties like this, to me, it's not a 2 year warranty if you have to spend probably a 100 bucks to keep a warranty valid for the second year. OK, rant over

Ron

I'm with you Ron. If the actual refrigerator just quits working I will save the refrig box and probably gut the entire cooling system and replace it with the exceptional aftermarket units available or go with a really quiet, efficient 12 volt compressor upgrade. I don't need no stinkin warranty when I'm already closing in on two years... This is really simple stuff compared to the radical performance work I've done on my twin cam.

 

[Kountrykamper]

For a some people this is going to be a major undertaking. I will probably do it this winter so I have a nice indoor project in a warm garage this winter. It's to late in the season to worry about it now and prime camping weather is coming over the next few months that will be cooler and it really won't matter.

 

[Jubal]

Ok. The wife brought to my attention that if Reace is not satisfied with the results (see post 20) , should I put forth the effort ?

 

[Zardoz-ESC]

Jim, I on the other hand can't wait to get started... One aspect of Reace's design that I don't like is ...

Is this Reace's design or Dometic's recommendations? Either way, I agree that the additional insulation and fans would be a great idea.

 

[hotfishtacos]

Jim, I on the other hand can't wait to get started... One aspect of Reace's design that I don't like is ...

Is this Reace's design or Dometic's recommendations? Either way, I agree that the additional insulation and fans would be a great idea.

I have some of Dometic's installation specs and they ask for a 1" gap behind the unit so that air flows through the coils when the heat rises. My 19' trailer has several inches of space instead of the 1" that Dometic called for. Reace is addressing that with his baffle design. I suspect that Reace may be getting marginal improvement because of the heating I mentioned. By insulating that space I'm hoping to finish the job. We'll see. I have nothing to lose but possibly a lot to gain.

 

[Kountrykamper]

I would agree with insulating the Chimney part but I am still looking at the pictures and trying to figure out what adding insulation to the sides of the fridge which are inside the trailer will accomplish. Not a big deal adding it (except I hate touching the stuff) just don't see what will be gained. Maybe it will make more sense when the fridge is pulled.

 

[hotfishtacos]

Another simple way to cool the new baffle design is to just stuff it with loose fiberglass insulation from the bottom before attaching the bottom cover. Everything else in his instructions would be the same. That would also be easy to do to any unts modified with that current baffle design to cool them down a bit.

Steve

 

[hotfishtacos]

I would agree with insulating the Chimney part but I am still looking at the pictures and trying to figure out what adding insulation to the sides of the fridge which are inside the trailer will accomplish. Not a big deal adding it just don't see what will be gained.

I agree that it would be marginal but it may help those with no AC when it's hot in the trailer also. That extra insulation would just make the Refrigerator better insulated.