Battleborn Lithium Battery in a 2017 E19

[Suregrip391]

Hello group!

There are many threads on this site about what to do with a battery in the winter but none that I have found seem to “cover it all” some people have a different situation or different configuration or plans for their specific camper.

Here is my question specific to this E19 I have here. It has a single Battleborn Lithium battery mounted in the front dinette area bench, drivers side. What to do with it in the winter for storage!


I’ve read to remove it, cover the solar panel mounted out back then remove. Some say to turn off the battery isolation switch to off but that does not shut off the solar to battery, some say to just take it out and wrap the ends with electrical tape (cables)….

I plan to store this camper all winter. I think I should be taking it out so it does not freeze? I currently have it plugged in to shore power (and can all winter if that’s ok?) or I can take the Battleborn battery out and unplug from shore power. How do you recommend? So I don’t hurt anything?

What’s the best thing for me to do here? And what steps? If I have to cover the solar panel, how to keep it covered all winter with wind and snow? It sits out in the elements.

Thanks group!

 

[vermilye]

Most solar controller manufacturers require disconnecting the input to the controller before disconnecting the output to the battery (and the reverse, ie connect the battery before the panels when reinstalling the batteries). Some controllers can be damaged if there is voltage coming in from the panel without the battery side connected.

Rather than covering the panel, I'd disconnect the input wiring between the panels & the controller at the controller. Insulate the wires from the panel with wire nuts or tape, and while the color code of the wires and the labeling at the controller are obvious, you might want to take a photo of the connections before disconnecting.

 

[Suregrip391]

Thanks for the tip!

 

[lostskier]

I have my Battleborn lithium mounted under the front dinette in my E19. I installed a solar disconnect switch to isolate the solar so I don't need to cover the panels. I flip that switch, turn the battery disconnect on (it turns of the power to the trailer) and remove my battery and take it inside. Less to think about and absolutely no stress about whether the cold in northern Wisconsin is going to hurt the battery.

 

[C&G in FL]

For storage, Battleborn recommends charging their batteries to 100% and the disconnecting them. Since the battery cutoff switch does not truly isolate the battery and for solar controller protection as stated by Jon Vermilye, I installed a switch/breaker on the incoming line from the solar panel (less expensive would be to disconnect and reconnect the positive input at the controller itself as necessary. I then added a disconnect at the battery positive post. That prevents current going into or coming out of the battery. Since I keep the trailer connected to shore power when stored, I keep the battery disconnect switch on, which allows me to use the lights and outlets, etc., if I need to go into the trailer to work on it or to retrieve something, while following Battleborn’s storage recommendation.

 

[Suregrip391]

Most solar controller manufacturers require disconnecting the input to the controller before disconnecting the output to the battery (and the reverse, ie connect the battery before the panels when reinstalling the batteries). Some controllers can be damaged if there is voltage coming in from the panel without the battery side connected.

Rather than covering the panel, I'd disconnect the input wiring between the panels & the controller at the controller. Insulate the wires from the panel with wire nuts or tape, and while the color code of the wires and the labeling at the controller are obvious, you might want to take a photo of the connections before disconnecting.

Just an update and some advice needed, so what I ended up doing was removing the positive wire from the solar panel to my charge controller. I was thinking how nice it would be in the future to just install an inline (single wire) switch with screw down lugs, i do not want to make any crimps. Screw in lugs preferred to hold the wire. I can only find a 12v rated circuit breaker in this kind of configuration. Will this be ok and what amp should I buy for a single solar panel that came on my 2017 E19? See eBay link… 20-150AMP Trip DC Car Solar Energy Inline Circuit Breaker 12V Fuse Holderâ | eBay

I am thinking correctly, 30 amp would be sufficient for this seeing it only has a single 170w solar panel, my math tells me a 15amp is ok but a 20 for any margin of spikes in the system. Any downfall to a 30 amp or is this overkill?

 

[Perry Butler]

Most of us insert a DC Miniature Circuit Breaker between the solar panels and the solar controller. I want to be breaking both wires.

Food for thought,

Perry

 

[Suregrip391]

How do most mount those in the Escape? I see these are din rail?

EDIT….i see now, it comes with a mini rail.

 

[SRS]

Here's my solution for my 17A:

 

[Ron in BC]

Neatly done.

Is the orange object a Wego connector?

Ron

 

[SRS]

Neatly done.

Is the orange object a Wego connector?

Ron

Yes. I was installed by ETI and it's a Wago Mounting Carrier with two 3 wire, 10AWG Lever Nuts. I really like how they work and I've used them on several other mods I've done.

 

[Suregrip391]

Most of us insert a DC Miniature Circuit Breaker between the solar panels and the solar controller. I want to be breaking both wires.

Food for thought,

Perry

Hi Perry,
I ordered one of those DZ disconnects and should have it in a few days. Were you able to tighten the wires down securely simply by stripping back the wires or do I also need to buy some of those wire ferrals and crimp them on first? Some sellers of the disconnects are stating “it’s recomended for a secure connection” but necessary? I don’t have those or the special crimper ….

 

[Perry Butler]

Hi Perry,
I ordered one of those DZ disconnects and should have it in a few days. Were you able to tighten the wires down securely simply by stripping back the wires or do I also need to buy some of those wire ferrals and crimp them on first? Some sellers of the disconnects are stating “it’s recomended for a secure connection” but necessary? I don’t have those or the special crimper ….

The disconnect has a decent bus, so I just striped the wires and tightened them down as much as possible.

I do have a ferrule set, but I only use them if the wires won't stay connected. People will argue pro/cons of ferrules ad nauseam. I like clamping bare wires if given a well-built bus. Others will disagree.

Food for thought,

Perry

 

[Suregrip391]

Cool, thanks man!