Yes, Glen, I would love to see a good tutorial (maybe video) on this. After our first major damage to our 2002 Nash from 2 leaks and resulting in a $6800 repair bill in 2007, I expected that with new caulking applied by professionals it should be good for a few years. However, in 2012 I proactively removed the old caulking as best I could, cleaned up the seam areas and applied a good bead of the appropriate caulking (Proflex for sides; self leveling caulking on roof) The repair shop cautioned against using silicone. I applied a very thick bead, opting for safety rather than looks.
Despite this effort, in 2014 I was again faced with a major leak that was going to cost $5000 to repair. I could not believe it after all my efforts! Even the Google maps street view of our home showed me maintaining the trailer seams. Well, the owner of Adventure RV Repair (in Chilliwack) told me that looking at a joint was NOT adequate. He said that very inch of sealant or caulking needs to be pulled back with your fingers to ensure it is still adhering to the siding or rubber roof material.
My brother-in-law, with a similar stick trailer major leak damage experience, was told that he should have checked every seam every 6 months. Now checking my Escape’s roof seams without putting my weight on the roof is really going to be a challenge. I would appreciate advice on this.
Of course this is what drove me to look for a molded fiberglass trailer. Still, even though the seams on the Escape aren’t subjected to stress like on the stick trailers, there is potential for leaking if not properly maintained.
I would like to hear ETI’s and other molded fiberglass trailer manufacturers’ advice on this, including the recommended caulking/sealant. I want my Escape to go the distance.
Bob K
