Dismount factory outside storage box

[bobwirtz]

Hello all,
I want to place wedges under the front of my factory outside storage box as others have done to straighten it a bit, providing a bit more room between the front of the box and the propane tank cover. I hope to use existing mounting holes and hardware while doing this, realizing that I may need longer bolts at the front of the box once it is shimmed up.
Does anyone have helpful hints on how best to loosen the box mounting bolts? It seems likely that I will need a second pair of hands because the mounting bolts are at the bottom of the box and I see no way for one person to grip the head and the nut on any bolt.
Thanks in advance,
Bob Wirtz
Baltimore
2021 E19

 

[Ron in BC]

Unfortunately for me I've worked on jobs where a second pair of hands would have been handy. First thing to try is use an impact wrench if you have. Spin that nut so quickly that the bolt doesn't know that its supposed to spin also. Works sometimes, especially if there's a little bit of friction from the hole being a tight fit on the bolt shaft.

If not, grab one or the other, either the nut or the bolt head anyway you can, with vicegrips and block them from turning.

And sometimes, when you just absolutely need a third hand, ask anyone around, even a stranger with a polite "Excuse me ...." My experience is that most folks are more than happy to lend a hand.

Ron, with the front storage box standing straight and level.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Sounds like someone needs to make some long plastic wedges and sell them.

Charles

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

if that front box is leaning much farther back than stock, at least on a 'classic' like my 2014 21, seems like the lid would hit the body when its open

 

[bobwirtz]

I tried using wedges to straighten the storage box and did indeed run into the problem of hitting the trailer body.
Today I implemented an alternative approach by raising the box 1 1/4" so that the edge of the lid is just above the propane tank cover. I did this by inserting two 13" x 3" x 1 1/4" pieces of pressure treated lumber between the box and the frame. I used the existing mounting holes in the box to mark the wood pieces, bored mounting holes, and inserted longer mounting bolts. The original bolts were 3/8" x 2" long; I replaced them with 5/16" x 3" ones. The reduction in diameter gave me a bit more wiggle room when positioning the box on the blocks.

I also put a couple of screws on fender washers through the bottom of the box into the blocks between the mounting bolts. I did this because the mounting holes were very near the edge of the block and I wanted a connection nearer to the center of the block. If I were doing this again I would make the blocks wider.

I plan to go out this spring, and will keep a sharp eye on the box to make sure the mounting is secure. I will take the original bolts with me so that in a worst case I can remove the blocks and go back to the original mount.

 

[brroberts]

While the trailer frame is painted, keep an eye on corrosion between the blocks and frame since pressure treated chemicals can corrode metals, including the fasteners. Choosing the materials the fasteners are made of is important. There are many adhesive barrier tapes you could put between the frame and wood as well as fasteners designed to be used with pressure treated lumber. Just fyi if someone is not aware of how to use pressure treated lumber.

 

[bobwirtz]

Thanks for the advice! I may well re-do the entire thing if the basic idea seems to work on the coming trip.

 

[bobwirtz]

Update: Once I did some reading to try and catch up with brroberts I decided not to go out with the problematic pressure treated lumber on the steel frame. I replaced those blocks with new ones made of PVC 1x4. I got an 8 ft piece from Lowes for $20 and cut 4 13" pieces. The actual thickness of the PVC board is 3/4" and I wanted blocks 1 1/4" deep, so I milled 2 of the PVC pieces down to 1/2" and joined one of those to one of the full depth pieces using PVC glue and screws. I was able to get the new material, create the new blocks, and swap the new blocks for the old ones in a few hours. I am quite happy with the result as the storage box, propane tank cover, and rotated lift jack now live on the frame with minimal conflicts.

 

[Ron in BC]

Well done.

Ron