Dometic refrigerator trouble while camping...

[rvnovice]

We have a 2018 Escape 5.0 TA. The Dometic refrigerator wouldn’t work once we set up at our campsite – we are currently camping.

Dometic Refrigerator Model: DM2663LBX

We tested at home and the refrigerator worked (and cooled) via both propane and DC. Once camping, nothing happens when we select the “GAS” button, only the "DC" light will come on (see photo below). The water heater, heater, and stove are all working fine with propane – only the refrigerator is misbehaving.

The manual was no current help (Take it to a service center...). We can do this when back home, but does anyone have any suggestions to try while camping. The trailer is level front to back and side to side. Our 200 AH battery is at 90% (campsite has no hookups, but we have solar to recharge).

Thanks…

 

[SRS]

You've probably tried this, but turning the frig off, wait a few seconds, then turn it back on, sometimes clears issues like this. Just a wild guess without going through diagnostics, you many need a new control board. I always carry spars of all my control boards just in case. And there's always the possibility it's the Eyebrow Board, the board behind the controls in you photo. There are videos that might help you diagnose the issue. FWIW, II find I have to turn DC off, and press gas/auto auto sometimes.

If you have to get a new control board or eyebrow board, I recommend those from Dinosaur Electronics. Good luck.

 

[alanmalk]

While on a long camping trip my Dometic RMD8555 stopped working. I could hear it going thru the ignition cycle but the main burner never lit. Not having a clue I gave the burner a couple of wacks with a hammer. (What could go wrong???). Amazingly enough, it ignited and never had that particular failure mode again. Guessing I dislodged a bit of crud in the burner orifice.

 

[Viajante]

RVnovice, I’m not clear on whether the DC came on by default after you pushed auto/gas, or did you manually turn it on?

Does the check light come on after you try gas? Generally, if you select gas and it doesn’t come on then the check light should come on. This tells you that the refrigerator went through the starting sequence and couldn’t find propane, spark, or sense a flame. The gas light should be on while it goes through the steps, then switch over to check if there is a problem. If no check light then I’d say you have a control board problem rather than a mechanical problem with the propane side.

If you have access to a power station (BLUETTI, Jackery, e.g.) you can try plugging the refrigerator or the whole trailer into that to see if the fridge will try to operate on AC. If it doesn’t light up then further evidence of a control board problem, or at least an auto/gas switch problem. If it does light up light then you might want to move to shore power site.

Regarding control boards I used this set for my rmd2354. Easy swap and good results. Dometic Refrigerator Power Control Module & Control Interface Display Kit - 3316996.900

 

[Ron in BC]

Not having a clue I gave the burner a couple of wacks with a hammer.

Guessing I dislodged a bit of crud in the burner orifice.

The old, if it doesn't work, hit it with a hammer. If it still doesn't work, hit it with a bigger hammer.

On my previous fridge I found whacking the gas valve often worked.

Ron

 

[HABBERDABBER]

Some times I use my head to figure it out, sometimes I use a bigger hammer.
It's amazing how many times a good whack or cold dead reboot of an electronic device work. Those electrons can get finicky.
I have an electric vehicle, a Chevy Bolt EUV. I carry a 10 mm wrench to disconnect the 12V battery that runs the computer/electronics. I haven't needed to cold dead reboot the car, but it is a computer on wheels. I'm ready, although, I won't be whacking much on that vehicle. 480V DC sounds a tad bit too powerful.
I whacked a battery powered salt grinder the other month visiting friends and it started to work again. Es un milagro!
Reminded now of a 1980's Renault Le Car I had that needed the carburetor whacked now and then to run right. Ahhh...the French kiss, done with a vice grip.

 

[iamunique127]

...
I have an electric vehicle, a Chevy Bolt EUV. I carry a 10 mm wrench ...

That’s where the 10mm wrench went.

 

[GinoandLinda]

The old, if it doesn't work, hit it with a hammer.

Linda uses this technique on me on occasion and I must say it’s quite effective.

 

[oldwave]

2018 could have some dirt in the burner orifice. Any insects evidence ? It’s really an easy fix to remove the burner assemble and soak the burner orifice in alcohol , dry it and reassemble. Should be done every few years, plenty of resources on YouTube to expllain it. Only a few screws holding it. The usual caution propane and power off. The igniter should sound crackle if it’s working also . The worst case is the board is bad and dinosaur electronics makes a surperior replacement. I have seen some where the burner assembly has corroded. All these parts are available. But I suspect it’s a dirty burner orifice all it takes is a microscopic piece of dirt, hence the hammer whack sometimes works. Also the gas valve has solenoids that sometimes fail… frankly I’d start with the simplest a good clean of the burner assembly

 

[GinoandLinda]

In addition to all of the good advice, make sure you are level front to back, side to side. The Dometic in our 5.0 is sensitive to state of level.

 

[Johnspierce]

On the side of your trailer, pull off the panel where the burner is. There's a little sight window behind a small metal plate that you can move with your hand to check the burner. But don't do anything yet

Then, turn fridge completely off, wait a few seconds and then turn on and manually select propane. Run around to the side of your Escape and you should "hear" the pilot trying to ignite the burner. If it won't ignite, that indicates a propane fuel-flow problem to the burner. Could be the gas valve, could be a leak in the propane line, could be the orifice needs cleaning.

If it does ignite, but the fridge still switches to DC, then it might be flame quality. Look through the sight window and see if you have nice *blue* flames coming from the burner. Yellow flames mean too much oxygen is being mixed and not sufficient to run your fridge.

My new Escape doesn't have a DC mode, but I DID once have a camper with a 3-way Dometic fridge and sometimes the Gas mode would just not "stick". I would cycle it off and on several times and eventually it would work.

 

[rvnovice]

FWIW, II find I have to turn DC off, and press gas/auto auto sometimes.

Sorry for the delay, we had very marginal connectivity so I wasn't able to reply earlier. Thanks to the tip from
SRS, we got it working on propane. In all my efforts, I would only push "GAS" and "AUTO", I never tried pushing the lighted "DC" button to turn it off. One push on "DC" and it went off and "GAS" came on and everything worked from that point! Thanks for all the tips -- we are happy to not have any spoiled food!

This was our maiden trip (3 nights with no hookups) and it was a lot of fun. We also learned that "3" was the best "cold" setting for our refrigerator - keep it 36-37 degrees. Setting "4" and "5" were too cold. So much to learn but we are grateful for all the help and advice from this forum.

 

[HABBERDABBER]

Your frig. temp settings are also dependent on ambient temperatures. You may have to bump the scale UP in hot, hot weather, or sun exposure to the vents or frig. side.

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

the RMD8555 alan has is notorious for all kinda electronics failures, and at least 3 years ago, the controllers and eyebrow board and stuff were all unobtanium. I tossed mine when it failed, and replaced it with a Norcold N2175 DC compressor fridge that works at any angle, gets damn cold in the hottest weather and has been absolutely zero trouble for the 3 years I've had it, and its been on pretty much 24/7.. Its also an exact fit replacement for the RMD8555

 

[alanmalk]

the RMD8555 alan has ...

Just an update, the correct word here is "had"...

Been using my new Norecold N2175 now for 9 months and loving it.

But an FYI - drove on some Colorado 4 lane divided interstates - kiss of death - and the door bounced off. Fortunately no damage but I'm going to have to add a door strap if I stay in this pothole-loving state.

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

mine has survived 4 months and 10000 miles of Mexico potholes and topes, as well as all the other abuse I give it...

 

[Iowa Dave]

In our 19, the Dometic refrigerator was a single door. The latch was plastic and not very heavy duty. Broke once.
I went to a specialty hardware store in my home town and bought two small brushed nickel cleats. Put one on each side of the door on the wood frame. Got a heavy duty leather boot lace out of my hunting equipment stock. Lashed that baby down and it was solid. Got an inspection by a US border guard coming back from Osoyoos. He saw the cleat.
“What is that, he asked
“A cleat” I answered . He meant that he had never seen a cleat used like I was using it.
It seemed obvious to me that it was holding the door closed.
“I’ve never seen that before” he said
I’d had enough of his BS.
I said “The Greeks had them on sailing ships a couple thousand years ago. They have been around a long time.”
I thought that would p ss him off. Instead he just said “Interesting, you’re free to go.”Never did look in the refrigerator.
Go figure.
Iowa Dave