Draining my fresh water tank

SH

shlm2umac

Advanced Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2023
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92
Location
Nooksack
Hi, I’m not able to turn the knob or pull to get my fresh water tank drained. Here’s a picture of what it looks like. This is a 2014 5.0
IMG_0540.jpeg
IMG_0539.jpeg
 
Probably an all or nothing situation. You could use a wrench of vice grips but you'd have to be prepared for it to snap. Plastic doesn't get stronger with age. Many folks have replaced this valve, sometimes with other types. Maybe some searching will find those threads.

Ron
 
The replacement is: Peterson Molding 18-966AW 1/2" Male Pipe Thread Drain Cock, White. Buy two, and you'll have the spare if you need it. An adjustable wrench applied on the 6 sided base can be used to remove the dead one. Using teflon plumbing tape to wrap the threads of the replacement will make subsequent removal easier.
 
wackyburggeezer said:
The replacement is: Peterson Molding 18-966AW 1/2" Male Pipe Thread Drain Cock, White. Buy two, and you'll have the spare if you need it. An adjustable wrench applied on the 6 sided base can be used to remove the dead one. Using teflon plumbing tape to wrap the threads of the replacement will make subsequent removal easier.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the part number. mine the lever broke in half when I was putting it away for winter storage.
 
wackyburggeezer said:
The replacement is: Peterson Molding 18-966AW 1/2" Male Pipe Thread Drain Cock, White. Buy two, and you'll have the spare if you need it. An adjustable wrench applied on the 6 sided base can be used to remove the dead one. Using teflon plumbing tape to wrap the threads of the replacement will make subsequent removal easier.
Click to expand...
The Amazon (US) link: Water tank drain valve.
 
shlm2umac said:
Hi, I’m not able to turn the knob or pull to get my fresh water tank drained. Here’s a picture of what it looks like. This is a 2014 5.0View attachment 2409434View attachment 2409435
Click to expand...
Thanks for the picture, that valve looks aged out and in need of replacement. I don’t understand your comment about not being able to pull. If you decide to unscrew the valve from the tank be sure to remove and replace the washer.
 
I replaced the one in the 19 twice and the one on the 21 twice and have a spare in the tool kit. Also a spare T handle for the black and grey tanks. Whenever something gives out and is replaceable for about $15 or less I get a spare. The light little things like a water valve I haul with us. Propane hoses, extra water filter etc, I keep in the Escape garage.
It’s about 20 miles for me to go to town and back so I keep components out here to save time and a trip.
Though some don’t think much of adjustable wrenches (crescent wrench) I carry two sixes and a ten along with some
standard flats. And always gas tape (PTFE), Teflon tape and
Black electrical tape. Always a selection of zip ties.
Iowa Dave
 
I bought a brass on like this one along with a screw on cap. Easy to install. Works great and much tougher than the original. It is 1/2" pipe thread to garden hose.

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If you go the route of using a brass fitting, there are some things to consider.

1. Brass is much harder than the PE or PP used on the fresh water tank. Over tightening the fitting to “make sure it doesn’t leak” will most certainly crack that part of the tank.

2. Brass threads are hard and unforgiving. The slightest cross threading will render the plastic female threads of the tank unrepairable.

If you choose to go with a brass valve, a 1/2” male to 1/2” female coupler should be used between the fitting and the tank to protect the tank. Just my thoughts.
 
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I'm feeling the same worries. The original plastic drain valve is weak and in my opinion a sacrificial part. I would much rather have it break off and leave the tank intact. Cheap enough and easy to replace. Having an "indestructible" valve means that something in the tank will break first if there is excessive force applied to the valve.
 
GinoandLinda said:
If you go the route of using a brass fitting, there are some things to consider.

1. Brass is much harder than the PE or PP used on the fresh water tank. Over tightening the fitting to “make sure it doesn’t leak” will most certainly crack that part of the tank.

2. Brass threads are hard and unforgiving. The slightest cross threading will render the plastic female threads of the tank unrepairable.

If you choose to go with a brass valve, a 1/2” male to 1/2” female coupler should be used between the fitting and the tank to protect the tank. Just my thoughts.
Click to expand...
Methinks you are worrying way too much.

Installing a brass fitting vs a plastic one is exactly the same. Threaded fittings are always tightened "just enough". Overtightening either will cause damage.

What would you be cross threading? A garden hose or the cap?

There is no need to use a coupler. The valve I showed has the same 1/2" pipe threads the stock one had. Replacement is easy peasy. I have done a few of these for myself and other Escape owners.

I have literally made many thousands of plumbing connections and this is an easy one. As well, the brass valve is way nicer and smoother to operate than the plastic one.

But, one must do what they know and are happy with. :)
 
Jim Bennett said:
Methinks you are worrying way too much.

Installing a brass fitting vs a plastic one is exactly the same. Threaded fittings are always tightened "just enough". Overtightening either will cause damage.

What would you be cross threading? A garden hose or the cap?

There is no need to use a coupler. The valve I showed has the same 1/2" pipe threads the stock one had. Replacement is easy peasy. I have done a few of these for myself and other Escape owners.

I have literally made many thousands of plumbing connections and this is an easy one. As well, the brass valve is way nicer and smoother to operate than the plastic one.

But, one must do what they know and are happy with. :)
Click to expand...
I agree 100%, Jim.

Although I didn't use brass I replaced mine with a 1/2" ball valve from Home Depot hoping for faster draining from the larger outlet. It turned out the constriction is in the tank fitting but oh well. The material I used will not deteriorate like the original and the valve is easy to turn. The threads are a common size, coarse and are easily threaded. It is a common plumbing thread size.

The photo looks like it extends below the spray foam on the tank but that effect is from camera angle. I can cut off the bottom, nut-looking part but haven't found it necessary.

https://flic.kr/p/2oB8ihB
 
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