E23 on order? What WDH weight will you use?

[bborzell]

10% of 6,000 is 600 lbs. 15% is 900 lbs. The WDH for our 5,000 lb. gross weight 21C was spec’ed at 550 because we never got a reading over 485 lbs. Then again, tongue weight scales are notoriously blind to any weight that is behind the rear axle of the tow vehicle.

But, the E23 has a gross rating of 6,000 which gives the 600-900 lb. range to consider. Blue Ox SwayPro, my hitch of choice, seems to jump from 750 to 1,000 lbs tongue weight.

Never thought I would be considering buying a WDH for an Escape that was rated at 1/2 ton of tongue weight.

 

[Centex]

No WDH suggestion but it prompts another of my "I'm just curious" questions about your lovely in-build E23 .... do you know the x-section dimensions of the trailer's aluminum A-frame members where you'll be installing WDH bar (or Andersen chain) brackets?

 

[bborzell]

No WDH suggestion but it prompts another of my "I'm just curious" questions about your lovely in-build E23 .... do you know the x-section dimensions of the trailer's aluminum A-frame members where you'll be installing WDH bar (or Andersen chain) brackets?

Well, kinda. It has been a while since I asked Linda for the height/width specs. I had in my mind the needs of the SwayPro and when she responded with the measurements, I ticked off the binary switch in my head that read: “It fits, move on to other stuff”. I might be able to track down the email.

 

[Centex]

..., I ticked off the binary switch in my head that read: “It fits, move on to other stuff”. I might be able to track down the email.

Gotta love good time / issue management , please don't bother tracking down for my curiosity.

 

[bborzell]

Well, ETI is recommending the 1,000 lb. tongue weight version of the Fastway E2 WDH.

So, tomorrow I order the Blue Ox SwayPro hitch in 1,000 lb. tongue weight.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Well, ETI is recommending the 1,000 lb. tongue weight version of the Fastway E2 WDH.

So, tomorrow I order the Blue Ox SwayPro hitch in 1,000 lb. tongue weight.

Good choice. Depending on how thick the frame is, you may wish to consider adding a piece of aluminum tack welded in place, on the inboard side of the tongue sections. I assume the frame is box tubing. My Bigfoot has 2x5 steel tubing tongue with 1/4 thick walls, so I just cranked the set screws into the metal, but if the metal is thinner, and being aluminum, a quarter inch thick plate possibly 2x2 tacked at the corners would go a long ways to keep the tongue tubing undamaged. My travel buddy did this with his Forest River Surveyor because the tongue was so thin, he tacked additional steel on the frame where the set screw went.

Blue Ox uses square headed, cup point set screws to hold the chain brackets in place. I actually bought shorter 1-1/2 inch set screws from Fastenal to get the screws short enough to clear my propane tanks (which sit inside the frame on a BF).

I also added a Reese PS58444 shim (0.042 in thick) between the head and the shank as there was too much play and tightening the bolts was going to bend the ears on the head. Blue Ox heads are cast steel.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Pro-Series/PS58444.html

Last pic is my extra short set screws (Fastenal p/n 0172047) with protective vinyl tubing over the heads to keep from denting the propane cylinders.

Charles

 

[bborzell]

Good choice. Depending on how thick the frame is, you may wish to consider adding a piece of aluminum tack welded in place, on the inboard side of the tongue sections. I assume the frame is box tubing. My Bigfoot has 2x5 steel tubing tongue with 1/4 thick walls, so I just cranked the set screws into the metal, but if the metal is thinner, and being aluminum, a quarter inch thick plate possibly 2x2 tacked at the corners would go a long ways to keep the tongue tubing undamaged. My travel buddy did this with his Forest River Surveyor because the tongue was so thin, he tacked additional steel on the frame where the set screw went.

Blue Ox uses square headed, cup point set screws to hold the chain brackets in place. I actually bought shorter 1-1/2 inch set screws from Fastenal to get the screws short enough to clear my propane tanks (which sit inside the frame on a BF).

I also added a Reese PS58444 shim (0.042 in thick) between the head and the shank as there was too much play and tightening the bolts was going to bend the ears on the head. Blue Ox heads are cast steel.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Pro-Series/PS58444.html

Last pic is my extra short set screws (Fastenal p/n 0172047) with protective vinyl tubing over the heads to keep from denting the propane cylinders.

Charles

Thanks for your suggestions. I will take a close look at the frame thickness as I am setting up the WDH. My experience with the SwayPro on the steel framed 21C leads me to believe that the pinch bolts don’t have to be very tight while in use given the significant downward force onto the frame. That said, aluminum and steel do present different characteristics so it makes sense to explore contact points and their interactions.

 

[Centex]

.... That said, aluminum and steel do present different characteristics so it makes sense to explore contact points and their interactions.

As you seem to recognize the two don't play-nice together when in long-term contact (risk of galvanic corrosion). Is ETI providing any info / documentation for owners about avoiding / mitigating that real-world risk?

Just FYI ...

• The B&W Turnoverball underbed hitch (powder-coated steel) includes a layer of robust synthetic isolating tape (film) at all points where the hitch may contact the painted surfaces of my F150's painted aluminum bed (consistent with Ford recommended procedures). The version of that hitch for steel-bodied vehicles does not include that material.
• Attached is Ford's document providing guidance for avoiding corrosion problems when attaching accessories to aluminum panels and structures.

I'm confident (hopefully not unfounded) that ETI is addressing this in the manufacture of the trailer where there are inevitable steel / aluminum interfaces. They might be a source of an isolating film they use, for example where the steel hitch-coupler assembly is bolted to the aluminum frame.

 

[MrLynn]

Good choice. Depending on how thick the frame is, you may wish to consider adding a piece of aluminum tack welded in place, on the inboard side of the tongue sections. I assume the frame is box tubing. My Bigfoot has 2x5 steel tubing tongue with 1/4 thick walls, so I just cranked the set screws into the metal, but if the metal is thinner, and being aluminum, a quarter inch thick plate possibly 2x2 tacked at the corners would go a long ways to keep the tongue tubing undamaged. My travel buddy did this with his Forest River Surveyor because the tongue was so thin, he tacked additional steel on the frame where the set screw went. . .
Charles

As I recollect, inTel owners often tack on a piece of aluminum onto their aluminum tongue frames, if mounting WD hitches.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Blue Ox pinch bolt torque is 40 lb/ft. I was never able to achieve 40 lb/ft. It just kept tightening and tightening and I quit at about 36 lb/ft.

Charles

 

[smeagol]

I'm considering the B&W Continuum hitch for my E23.

I am waiting to hear back from Escape to verify that it will work with the E23.

 

[MrLynn]

Well, ETI is recommending the 1,000 lb. tongue weight version of the Fastway E2 WDH.

So, tomorrow I order the Blue Ox SwayPro hitch in 1,000 lb. tongue weight.

We have the Fastway E2 on our E21C; works well. Easy to put the bars on if you crank up the tongue to maximum height.

I have seen one guy have a terrible time trying to get the Blue Ox chains on.

 

[bborzell]

We have the Fastway E2 on our E21C; works well. Easy to put the bars on if you crank up the tongue to maximum height.

I have seen one guy have a terrible time trying to get the Blue Ox chains on.

I used the Blue Ox SwayPro on our 21C for 18 months. Never had a hint of trouble hooking up.

 

[bborzell]

I'm considering the B&W Continuum hitch for my E23.

I am waiting to hear back from Escape to verify that it will work with the E23.

My view is that trailers in the Escape weight range are not likely to exceed the weight distribution or anti sway capabilities of any of the currently available offerings from well known manufacturers. Perhaps the easiest way to make sure your choice makes the cut is to look at the list of WDHs sold by eTrailer. They do not sell much of anything that they have not tried and approved.

Though a $500 WDH is likely to work fine with any of the Escapes, I opted for a nearly $900 Blue Ox. They have been around for many years and the 18 months experience I had with our 21C solidified my sense that the design, construction quality, ease of use and on the road performance are top notch.

 

[Perry Butler]

We have the Fastway E2 on our E21C; works well. Easy to put the bars on if you crank up the tongue to maximum height.

I have seen one guy have a terrible time trying to get the Blue Ox chains on.

We're currently using a E2 hitch that came with the trailer and so far, so good.

We've had two previous Blue Ox hitches and if I had to replace our E2 it would be another Blue Ox.

People struggle with wrenches and/or u-shaped levers to hook up their hitches. We just replaced our 18" electric trailer jack with a 24" electric trailer jack. We just raise the jack high enough so our bars go on easily with no u-shaped levers for the E2 or heavy wrenching with the Blue Ox is needed.

Food for thought,

Perry

 

[gklott]

Hensley Cub

Never thought I would be considering buying a WDH for an Escape that was rated at 1/2 ton of tongue weight.

Recommend considering the Hensley Cub or Arrow WDH. We have the Cub on our E19. Our daughter has the Cub on her E21NE. Since 2003, we’ve have had a Hensley Arrow hitch on our 30 ft. Airstream Classic.

73/gus

 

[bborzell]

Recommend considering the Hensley Cub or Arrow WDH. We have the Cub on our E19. Our daughter has the Cub on her E21NE. Since 2003, we’ve have had a Hensley Arrow hitch on our 30 ft. Airstream Classic.

73/gus

Already bought the Swaypro, but I have heard good things about the Hensley

 

[mr.stang]

In the lightning protection business we use stainless steel fasteners when coupling either aluminum or copper. The U.L. considers stainless to be an universal device.

 

[gklott]

Already bought the Swaypro, but I have heard good things about the Hensley

Great purchase. Happy trailering. See y’all down the road.

 

[oldwave]

As you seem to recognize the two don't play-nice together when in long-term contact (risk of galvanic corrosion). Is ETI providing any info / documentation for owners about avoiding / mitigating that real-world risk?

Just FYI ...

• The B&W Turnoverball underbed hitch (powder-coated steel) includes a layer of robust synthetic isolating tape (film) at all points where the hitch may contact the painted surfaces of my F150's painted aluminum bed (consistent with Ford recommended procedures). The version of that hitch for steel-bodied vehicles does not include that material.
• Attached is Ford's document providing guidance for avoiding corrosion problems when attaching accessories to aluminum panels and structures.

I'm confident (hopefully not unfounded) that ETI is addressing this in the manufacture of the trailer where there are inevitable steel / aluminum interfaces. They might be a source of an isolating film they use, for example where the steel hitch-coupler assembly is bolted to the aluminum frame.

Oliver uses sacrificial anodes to address this issue.