Electrical HELP!!!

parfsten

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2012
Messages
254
Location
Petaluma
I just arrived at my destination (Gardnerville, NV). Got all setup and went to settle in and no electricity - I am going off my batteries and solar. It was fine this morning at home and ok at a rest stop on the way and now nada! Any suggestions on where to start troubleshooting?? All suggestions greatly appreciated. I've checked fuses - all look okay. Glad I have my dog and lots of blankets - it's going to be a chilly night - brrrrr!
 
Ck to see if your battery disconnect switch got turned off accidentally
 
Are both the 120V AC and the 12V power off? And are you plugged into a power pedestal?

If you have no 120V AC, my first check would be the pedestal to make sure there is electricity at the connector. Also check your power cord connections. If there is power at the campground receptacle, and your connections are good, and you have the Progressive Industries EMS, check that it hasn't rejected your connection. Put the bypass switch in the bypass position (up). If power comes back on, the EMS will show a code that tells you what it finds wrong with the connection. In most cases, a fault that shuts down the EMS is enough of a problem that you should move to another site or have the campground electrician fix the fault.

Even with the battery disconnect off & the trailer plugged into a power pedestal, the converter would supply 12V. It does need to be on if you are not plugged into a power pedestal in order to get 12V to the appliances, lights, etc.

The fuses are 12V only - the circuit breakers are for the 120V circuits. Check that they are on by shutting each off then back on. If you have the all receptacle option & an inverter, check the breakers in the sub panel (usually under the seat near the panel for the fuses & breakers).

As to chilly night, your furnace runs on 12V & propane. If your batteries are full enough, you should be able to run the furnace overnight, at least at a low temperature setting.
 
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I used to hit that damn toggle switch all the time, when I rewired a bunch of stuff a couple years ago, I replaced it with a rotary marine style battery disconnect, so much better ��
 
My fridge is DC only, but only uses about 300 watt hours per day.... ��

I have the same refrigerator as John and I tested its power usage over a 24 hour period with only the refrigerator on. According to the Victron Smart Shunt, the State of Charge was 100% at the start, and 78% after 24 hours. I have 2-100 amp hour Battleborn lithium batteries. I could easily go 3 days without shore power and still have ice cold beer!
 
I have 2 x 206 AH batteries (5260 WH) and 360W of solar, I can go over a week with deep shade and all my normal power requirements. With even minimal sunshine, I'm pretty much unlimited.
 
Switch

I used to hit that damn toggle switch all the time, when I rewired a bunch of stuff a couple years ago, I replaced it with a rotary marine style battery disconnect, so much better ��

John, would you kindly share the specs for the replacement you used to replace your battery disconnect switch. I went looking for such a switch but found there are various specifications. I need to replace mine because the switch lever broke off. I'm only surprised it lasted this long since our trailer is a 2014 and the switch was mounted in a precarious place, likely to be broken. Thanks much.
 
Yes, those switches are very robust and unlikely to ever be accidentally turned off.

I've used them in my Scamp and two Escapes.

Mine is a two battery type because I have two isolated battery banks.

Ron
 

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