Electrical issue with new 21C - 12V not working on shore power, 120V working

vtadv

New Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2024
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6
Location
Pomfret
Hi all,

We took delivery of our 21C Thursday night. Very excited to have the trailer and we have at least a few months before we'll take it anywhere, so I'm using the time to familiarize myself, shake out any issues that we can now, and get it set up for travel.

We have the Zap Pack / Victron package. Trailer is connected to shore power and all AC loads seem to be working fine, but lights and 12V outlets are not. I can't find a previous thread that describes the same issue, so apologies if this has been discussed already.
  • The trailer arrived with the battery disconnect switch set to off, so I turned it to on.
  • If I understand correctly, there are a few 12V loads that are not impacted by the disconnect switch, such as the detector and power jack. Those are working.
  • On a visual inspection, the 12v fuses look OK.
  • I have a multi-meter, but I'm an electrical rookie, so I'm not sure what to check next.
I've attached a picture of the disconnect (before I switched to on) and panel, if helpful.

Appreciate any suggestions or direction to the most relevant thread!
 

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Wild guess here but shouldn't the battery disconnect be on? I know that in older trailers it was reversed but ETI changed that and on my trailer on means connected. Try switching the disconnect to on.
 
Thanks
Wild guess here but shouldn't the battery disconnect be on? I know that in older trailers it was reversed but ETI changed that and on my trailer on means connected. Try switching the disconnect to on.
Thanks! The battery disconnect is switched to on. I took the picture before switching it to on, and noted that in the text. But probably just should have taken a new picture, since I realize the photo could be confusing.
 
1st step could be to remove and check continuity of each fuse, or replace with a KNOWN good fuse. If you have a multimeter, look on U-tube for continuity test videos. Easy test to do.
After that, it's searching for the gremlins like a loose connection somewhere.
Do all this testing with ALL power OFF.
 
Thanks Habberdabber and SRS for the help.

Solution: Once I looked again, the answer was right in front of my nose. In this setup, there are additional disconnects for the solar panels and 12V systems. I just had to flip the 12V disconnect.

ETI has a good video on the Victron Power Pack / Zamp package, but he really breezes over this part and didn't show the correct position for the 12V DC system to be turned on. And I may have missed it somewhere, but would also be helpful to include this information in the new delivery instructions.

In case it's useful for others in the future, in this picture you can see "DC Disconnect" on the right. The yellow switch just needed to be pushed up. You can see what it looks like in the down position in the solar disconnect on the left.
 

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@vtadv ; Thanks for following up with the solution.

The "DC Disconnect" as labeled by ETI is a Gloso Thermal (reset-able) Breaker.
They have become more common in RV DCV systems in recent years.

Your trailer appears to have the model E93-50

There is a good device feature/operation overview on an Amazon seller page (of all places)
It may be worth your time to review for future reference.

Amazon Page E93-50
 
@vtadv ; Thanks for following up with the solution.

The "DC Disconnect" as labeled by ETI is a Gloso Thermal (reset-able) Breaker.
They have become more common in RV DCV systems in recent years.

Your trailer appears to have the model E93-50

There is a good device feature/operation overview on an Amazon seller page (of all places)
It may be worth your time to review for future reference.

Amazon Page E93-50
Super helpful - thanks!
 

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