Electronically ignorant question

[nealmccarter]

We are planning to move up from a pop up trailer so I'm kinda ignorant about the electronics. Besides the AC, what else is at risk with no EMS?

 

[vermilye]

That is about it. While there are those of us that just want to know what is going on with the power to the trailer, a simple plug in meter or multimeter will give you most of the information you need. If you are concerned about reverse polarity connections, (I've only found 2 of them in 2 1/2 years with the trailer) the EMS is easier than other methods of checking.

In my case I do like to see the current (amps) draw on the trailer when connected. I have the electric water heater option, and on a 15 amp campground service it is useful to know when the water heater kicks off before adding additional draw with other appliances. If you do have AC, it is useful if you leave the AC on while away from the trailer & the voltage drops below save levels. It will shut down the trailer, preventing under voltage damage to the AC.

 

[Jmn n]

It is a surge and incorrect (campground) wiring protector.

It can save the fridge circuit board. Anything lugged into an AC outlet. The converter power module.

Lethal shocks to people.

 

[bvansnell]

We have been camping for four years, don't have an air conditioner, and don't have an EMS, and have had no problems. Our simple fridge doesn't have a circuit board (as far as I know), and our hot water heater runs on propane only.

I can understand that people who have a lot of electronic equipment running might feel an EMS is needed.

We do most of our cooking right outside the trailer using a toaster oven, electric kettle, electric frying pan. Most of the campsites we have been to have a 15 or 20 amp outlet as well as a 30 amp outlet. I connect the trailer to the 30 amp outlet and run a heavy extension cord to the outside cooking area. The benefits are:

• we can run an electric heater inside the trailer in cool weather while still being able to cook outside
• cooking outside eliminates the humidity and fumes from cooking inside the trailer, hence less condensation

The power supply for my computer and camera battery charger have a wide tolerance for voltage, so I don't see this as a risk.

In any campsite we have visited many other people will have used the same power plugs before us. I think the chances are fairly low that we would be the first ones to experience a problem with the electrical hookup.

I have not ruled out adding an EMS, just think the risk is fairly low for us. As Donna D. says, YMMV.

 

[thoer]

We use a portable surge protector that also checks the circuit: 30-Amp RV Surge Protector & Circuit Analyzer - TRC AECM10086-001-012 - Surge Protectors - Camping World It sometimes is hard to fit into some boxes, but then I use my 30A extension cord and plug this into the cord.

 

[gbaglo]

What is the cost of EMS relative to the value of the item (s) that may be protected, if you don't have air?
Like Brian, I'm not too concerned, but, I also camp without hookups most of the time.

 

[cpaharley2008]

For $250 it will save you that much for one appliance fix in the event of a fault. Also anything you have plugged in inside your camper, computer, television, phone is potentially at risk. Personal choice with taking risks, not everyone uses their seat belt.

 

[thoer]

What is the cost of EMS relative to the value of the item (s) that may be protected, if you don't have air?
Like Brian, I'm not too concerned, but, I also camp without hookups most of the time.

I've wondered how easily the built in AC to DC power converter/battery chargers could be damaged by surges? I'd guess that and the refrig's electronics might be the most easily damaged?

 

[Jmn n]

I lost the fridge control circuit board in my Casita to a power surge - I think it was about $100 but I am not sure.

 

[gbaglo]

For $250 it will save you that much for one appliance fix in the event of a fault. Also anything you have plugged in inside your camper, computer, television, phone is potentially at risk. Personal choice with taking risks, not everyone uses their seat belt.

OK. So why not pick up a $20 surge protector for computer, TV, phone chargers? I have one that plugs into the AC outlet and has three places to plug in chargers.
Why do I need to spend $250?

 

[cpaharley2008]

The plug in surge protector will not protect your wiring and plugs inside your trailer and your insurance may have a deductible, that electrical surge will fry everything in it's path, not just items plugged in. I'm not sure if occupants are at risk during a voltage spike but like I said, personal choice. Ideally it should be mounted at the pedestal to protect your 30 amp cord also, but then the risk of theft is present. They do have portable ones.

 

[escape artist]

OK. So why not pick up a $20 surge protector for computer, TV, phone chargers? I have one that plugs into the AC outlet and has three places to plug in chargers.
Why do I need to spend $250?

Hi: gbaglo... Why do some people buy more insurance? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

 

[gbaglo]

Or, I can just avoid those parking lots for RVs.

 

[thoer]

Or, I can just avoid those parking lots for RVs.

LOL - ever been in the one "RV" lot in Yellowstone? The rangers call it the parking lot with hookups. I think we had about 6 feet between us and the ones on each side of us for the one night we were there - never again!

 

[gbaglo]

In my ignorance, I have another question. If I don't have air conditioning, and since all of my appliances are low draw ( after all they are all 12V and able to run off of the battery ), why couldn't I use a cheap surge protector at the electric tree and plug the trailer into it?

 

[cpaharley2008]

You could do that, you would need an exterior 15 amp model.

 

[vermilye]

Surge protectors are rated in joules; the higher the figure the more surge it can absorb before failing. Some plugging strips have such a low rating that they offer little or no protection. Most of those designed for an RV provide higher levels of protection. If you want to depend on a plugging strip to provide surge protection, be sure it is a good one. Ratings of 100 joules or more are what you are looking for to protect a trailer.

That said, what RVers call surge protectors usually include additional components and circuitry so that they detect under and over voltage, reverse polarity, and missing ground. These additions are not built into all surge protectors, so one must check the specifications. I would not purchase a surge only device.

As to surge protection only, I suspect it may be worth it, particularly if you camp in areas that have frequent thunderstorms, however I've never had a problem with surges. Low & high voltage, reverse polarity and missing ground, yes.

The Progressive Industries model supplied by Escape is an example of a "surge protector" that is actually an EMS. By the way, you even have to be careful with the term EMS. In the larger RV world there are devices called EMS that shed circuits so the input amperage of a 50 amp RV is limited to 15 or 30 amps when connected to a lower amperage source.

 

[Kountrykamper]

We have lost 2 converters and a microwave to power problems over the years. It's not just the cost of the appliance but the hassle it causes for that trip. Seems to always happen on the first day of vacation for those of us not yet retired and still on a schedule. The $250 Escape charges for the EMS is a very cheap price for that unit and total trailer protection also saving you some headaches.

 

[gbaglo]

Searching, I found Shockshield GFCI with surge protection, but it doesn't say if it can be used outdoors. Most of the others I found said 'indoor use only'.
I also learned that the Shockshield is $12.95 at Amazon.com and $43.43 at Amazon.ca.
I already have the device for checking polarity etc.
Have never camped with hookups and lightening at the same time.

 

[gbaglo]

I guess I should return my empties and save up the deposit until I can afford the Progressive.