CharlesinGA
Senior Member
The devils in the details. A socket for the wheel lugs and a breaker bar are invaluable. I carry a torque wrench but don't consider it an absolute necessity unless you are not mechanically inclined and don't have a feel for such things. HOWEVER, many RV manufacturers fasten the spare to the rear bracket using regular 1/2-20 thread nuts, which are a DIFFERENT hex size than the same thread lugnuts are. If your trailer lugnuts are 13/16" and the spare wheel is attached with 3/4 inch hex nuts, just go to an autoparts or even a decent hardware store and get standard tapered lugnuts of the same thread and install them on your spare. If you need to, flip them over and use the flat top side of the lugnut to bear on the retaining plate on the spare. Doing this will standardize your socket size.
In the attachment below, note that #1 is a standard tapered lugnut installed properly on the wheel. #5 is a standard tapered lugnut flipped over backward with a lock washer and flat washer under it.

For a socket to run your stabilizers (which is 3/4 inch) get the one made to fit a cordless impact and then it can be used on the impact or a drill. I prefer the Camco one because it is cad plated and does not rust easily. More expensive however.
Someone mentioned fridge thermometer, and I use the electronic bluetooth model. I now have them on my house and shop fridges and sometimes, they cross signal and the trailer will be showing low temps with the fridge off. Gotta be sure they are receiving the right transmitters. Room temp is kinda handy too.
Someone mentioned folding shovel. I bought a Gerber version because of its quality and features, as it has a cutting edge on it, and it folds up very compactly. I keep it in the truck, under the drivers seat. There are many other brands that work just as well however. I did buy a heavy canvas cover to store it in folded.
Harbor Freight is the best deal on good rubber chocks. Get four, two for the tow vehicle and two for the trailer then you can use them where you need them. I keep two in the truck as it is a straight shift and a heavy diesel so I like to have some at hand.
Geno and Linda have it correct, not trying to copy them, just adding to what they say.
I have started using Gorilla tape from Home Depot, seems to work better and stronger than regular duct tape.
Water pressure regulators. DO NOT get the simple inline variety, rather get the model with a gauge and an adjustment screw. There are many on the market and all seem to be decent. I bought one with a glycerin filled gauge and it works nice (though I have only used it once, as I don't often hook up to water in campgrounds) Do not pay more than $25-$30 however.
While at Harbor Freight, pick up a 15 amp male to 30 amp RV female power adapter.
Also get a 50 amp down to 30 amp RV adapter. I think Walmart has one, not sure but this is the one I have, from Amazon.
Be sure and try out the adapters. Make sure they can be plugged into properly and are not too loose, nor tight when plugged together. I was given a brand new one when I bought my used Blue Ox hitch and discovered it was very loose when I plugged the shore cord into it. I ended up buying the one above. You will encounter burned up 30 amp shore pedestals but the 50 amp is usually in good condition and the adapter may save the day.
The air compressor is a good idea. I added a PacBrake diesel exhaust brake to my truck and it is operated by compressed air. So I now have a small hard mounted air compressor and ½ gallon air tank, and at the back end of each running board I installed air couplings to plug the hose into. I bought self coiling air hose from Northern Tool (in addition to the one that came with the exhaust brake) and added other air accessories that PacBrake didn't give me.
Charles
In the attachment below, note that #1 is a standard tapered lugnut installed properly on the wheel. #5 is a standard tapered lugnut flipped over backward with a lock washer and flat washer under it.

For a socket to run your stabilizers (which is 3/4 inch) get the one made to fit a cordless impact and then it can be used on the impact or a drill. I prefer the Camco one because it is cad plated and does not rust easily. More expensive however.


Someone mentioned fridge thermometer, and I use the electronic bluetooth model. I now have them on my house and shop fridges and sometimes, they cross signal and the trailer will be showing low temps with the fridge off. Gotta be sure they are receiving the right transmitters. Room temp is kinda handy too.
Someone mentioned folding shovel. I bought a Gerber version because of its quality and features, as it has a cutting edge on it, and it folds up very compactly. I keep it in the truck, under the drivers seat. There are many other brands that work just as well however. I did buy a heavy canvas cover to store it in folded.
Harbor Freight is the best deal on good rubber chocks. Get four, two for the tow vehicle and two for the trailer then you can use them where you need them. I keep two in the truck as it is a straight shift and a heavy diesel so I like to have some at hand.

Geno and Linda have it correct, not trying to copy them, just adding to what they say.
I have started using Gorilla tape from Home Depot, seems to work better and stronger than regular duct tape.
Water pressure regulators. DO NOT get the simple inline variety, rather get the model with a gauge and an adjustment screw. There are many on the market and all seem to be decent. I bought one with a glycerin filled gauge and it works nice (though I have only used it once, as I don't often hook up to water in campgrounds) Do not pay more than $25-$30 however.


While at Harbor Freight, pick up a 15 amp male to 30 amp RV female power adapter.
Also get a 50 amp down to 30 amp RV adapter. I think Walmart has one, not sure but this is the one I have, from Amazon.

Be sure and try out the adapters. Make sure they can be plugged into properly and are not too loose, nor tight when plugged together. I was given a brand new one when I bought my used Blue Ox hitch and discovered it was very loose when I plugged the shore cord into it. I ended up buying the one above. You will encounter burned up 30 amp shore pedestals but the 50 amp is usually in good condition and the adapter may save the day.
The air compressor is a good idea. I added a PacBrake diesel exhaust brake to my truck and it is operated by compressed air. So I now have a small hard mounted air compressor and ½ gallon air tank, and at the back end of each running board I installed air couplings to plug the hose into. I bought self coiling air hose from Northern Tool (in addition to the one that came with the exhaust brake) and added other air accessories that PacBrake didn't give me.
Charles
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