General Questions About Escape

We considered that and I know you save money getting a portable. We, however, are usually out all day and would not be leaving a panel there.

We use a portable along with a good bicycle cable and lock when we are gone. No problems. Like a lot of things about our trailers a determined thief would have no trouble taking just about anything including what's inside. So, we do what is best for us, a portable, use deterrents, and make friends with our camp neighbors. So far, so good.
 
Here's a picture of my black tank, and.... It has straps. Beefy ones (for heavy loads).
 

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Does it have the side flanges plus the straps? Or just straps? (end view?)

I don't think so, all I have to go by are a couple pictures ETI took before the foam went on and you certainly can't tell afterwards. Maybe someone without foam on their 5.0TA can say for sure.
 
We use a portable along with a good bicycle cable and lock when we are gone. No problems. Like a lot of things about our trailers a determined thief would have no trouble taking just about anything including what's inside. So, we do what is best for us, a portable, use deterrents, and make friends with our camp neighbors. So far, so good.

Excellent idea just be friendly with your neighbor and you can get 15 heavy duty coated cable ,add a good lock . It will keep someone from just walking away . If someone has bad intentions not much you can do . Just don't make it easy for them .Pat
 
We use a portable along with a good bicycle cable and lock when we are gone. No problems. Like a lot of things about our trailers a determined thief would have no trouble taking just about anything including what's inside. So, we do what is best for us, a portable, use deterrents, and make friends with our camp neighbors. So far, so good.

It certainly does depend on where you are and what people are around you. I'd grab the awnings!
 
I have written a paper in the files section called Solar Made Easy. In that paper I describe how to wire a external solar panel to the front tow vehicle connector. The system I describe works very well on an Escape 19, but not as well with a 17 or 21. The reason the connector will not work as well on these two models is the distance the batteries are from the connector at the tongue of the trailer. Having batteries that could be 20 even 30 feet of wiring away from the connector at the tongue will render the solar panel very inefficient, simply too much electrical loss due to wire gauge and distance.

However, with the 17 battery on the rear bumper it is very easy to use a different connector at the battery and have a very efficient solar system. As Gbaglo pointed out you will need a solar controller and it should be connected within one meter of the battery. The 21 does require an opening through the shell and skiman shows one of a number of connectors to connect through the fiberglass.
 
Yes, it does appear that mounting (of the fresh water and grey waste) tanks depends on which tank, which model, and perhaps which year of production.

Here's a picture of my black tank, and.... It has straps.
I believe that's your grey waste tank, Myron. The black waste tank sits on top of the floor, under the toilet; only the fresh and grey tanks are under the floor (and I agree that's a waste tank, not fresh).
 
:facepalm: You're right! Had to go see for myself and take a better picture.
 

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We use a portable along with a good bicycle cable and lock when we are gone. No problems. Like a lot of things about our trailers a determined thief would have no trouble taking just about anything including what's inside. So, we do what is best for us, a portable, use deterrents, and make friends with our camp neighbors. So far, so good.

I worried about the unattended panel growing legs while I was away - so added this A-frame and anchored the assembly with a couple of ground screws plus lock and chain. As mentioned, a determined thief could get away with the whole thing but I don't put much effort into worrying about things like that.

--
Alan
 

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I worried about the unattended panel growing legs while I was away - so added this A-frame and anchored the assembly with a couple of ground screws plus lock and chain. As mentioned, a determined thief could get away with the whole thing but I don't put much effort into worrying about things like that.

--
Alan

Almost the same idea we have . The Go Power we have has a folding frame already attached . So we cable the folding panels to trailer A Frame . The cable we use will go out just about the wiring length that is attached to our panel .It's a 1/2 or 3/8 , I forgot which , braided vinyl coated cable . Have a shorter one 6 ft for Weber to attach to something , table etc. it is a shame we have to go to these lengths , but I can't really afford to keep replacing this time in my life . Pat
 
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Thinking about joining the RV community when I retire. I like the looks of the Escape. I know nothing much about trailers in general. I know from reading other posts in this forum that the shell thickness is about 1/8 inch. How is the shell insulated? If you order the extra insulation option what exactly are you getting above and beyond the standard build?

My understanding is that the basic insulation is the visible liner which has a small R Value. This liner does not cover 100% of the wall areas, mostly just what is visible.
The extra insulation is the reflective insulation that is added to all the wall areas along with the standard visible liner and the double pane windows.
So some areas have two layers of insulation and others only have one layer being the reflective insulation.
As others noted, the floor is not insulated unless you get the foam underneath.

Hope this makes sense?
 
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is the fresh water tack in the front of the trailer or back?
I believe that all models have the fresh water tank behind the axle(s), under the floor. Similarly, the grey tank is ahead of the axle(s), and the black tank is always on top the floor, under the toilet and generally extending into the bottom of an adjacent seat base or cabinet.
 
I went to a carpet outlet, paid 20 bucks and wall to walled my whole floor.
Have a decorative runner down the middle. Looks pretty nice
 
What Ron wad referring to is correct, Thr tanks are supported by the frame along two edged and secured with straps.
I strongly advise getting the foam as it encapsulates the entire under belly and frame. A lot less frame exposed to road salt with the foam option and definitely a lot warmer
 
What Ron wad referring to is correct, Thr tanks are supported by the frame along two edged and secured with straps.
Do you have a photo of this, Jim? I've seen tanks with stepped sides supported by framework under the step (such as Myron's fresh tank), and tanks supported by straps (such as Myron's grey tank), but I haven't seen the same tank supported by both methods yet.

In an earlier discussion - Water tank security - the freshwater tank of the 5.0TA (which is apparently the same as the 5.0) was shown supported by two straps, like Myron's grey waste tank.
 
I can not find the pictures, it was way back when ETI changed their frames and showed the tanks sitting inside the new frames. But with changes from 3-4" frames and new 21 and 5.0 TA models, I'm no longer that sure of what is now on the units. But either way I'm sure Reace is on top of any issues. Why not get then answer from the horse's mouth so to speak. He could explain better than anyone.
 

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