Greetings all.

[Wunfiddy]

I had posted before but it seems it never went through.

Not going to bother with a long into this time. Just here to see how the Escape brand holds up over time, build quality, manufacturer support etc.

Livin Lite does not make any layouts that work for us and Fiberglass campers are the only other ones that will last any length of time. Casita layouts do not excite us, nor does Scamp (and man are they ugly inside)
Hoping that Escape (17a or 19 preferably) will be worth the cost and give us over a decade of use without major structural issues.

Looking forward to talking to you.

 

[tractors1]

Having owned a couple of stick builts and a Casita (5 years there) when I decided to go larger than a 17ft Casita LD I looked at several brands and came close to buying a Lance - to the point of taking one out for a test tow and setup.

I bought an Escape 21 as there the glassed-in mounting blocks for securing the subassemblies/appliances are far superior to rivets used in Scamp and Casita. Wire routing and management are also better, although I am not a fan of crimp connectors. It's a good tradeoff for weight for our use - we don't need a 4 season rig like Oliver (heavy and expensive) for our camping year round in the Pacific Northwest.

Parkliner is another fiberglass option, although they seem to go in and out of business every few years.

Bottom line is a fiberglass top doesn't leak often - just where holes are made to attach things like vents. Bottoms don't leak often either - and Escape designed in french drains around the perimeter to deal with those leaks that might happen.

We expect our 21 to long outlast us; and we're in our mid 60s. Just the opinion of a retired mechanical engineer attuned to details.

 

[Bobbito]

The. beauty of molded fiberglass trailers like the Escape is that the stress points, where walls, floor and ceiling meet, can't leak. Our stick built, a Nash 19B, suffered two major leaks at these joints over its short 12 year lifespan. The first leak cost $6800 to repair. The second was the end of it. Despite occasional reports of leaks around windows or vents on this forum, I doubt they would be as hard to detect nor destroy the trailer like in our stick built. The Escape's build quality and the quality of appliances was markedly better than the Nash. The support and accessibility of the owners/designers at ETI is another amazing plus for us. It may be why so many go on to buy another Escape.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Marry-ESC]

Hi Jon. Maybe give ETI a call to find out who has an Escape in your area. ETI has a list of owners willing to show their trailer. To find out Escape trailers is something for you.
I bet, what you are going to see you are going to love!!! (at least I did)

 

[Steve Clark]

When we were looking, we assembled a list of the most highly rated light weight trailers. I then studied their ownership forums and talked to owners of each. We found No Comparison in customer satisfaction and factory support. It made our decision a simple one. After 18 months of ownership and over 15,000 miles, I couldn't be happier. Your question is a good one, and will lead you down the correct path. Good Luck!

 

[Bill and Earline]

Value over time

For someone trying to evaluate Escape trailers and how they holdup and hold their value, I'd recommend watching the asking prices for used ones on this forum. They usually sell for the asking price within hours or very few days, and most owners are getting 80% to 90% of what they paid, even after 5 to 10 years.
I doubt there could be a better gauge of quality.

 

[thoer]

Excellent point Bill. I think Paul B once calculated that Escapes lose about 3% a year in value based on sales of used ones. But I think that that number gets even less after the first few years.

 

[Wunfiddy]

Thank you guys so much for the enthusiastic responses! This is good to know. Ive read a few threads here and now have started making a list of specific questions and areas to look into further.
This is good to know. Stick builds locally in layouts we like (14-16 foot with rear tip out bunk) are 18-21k new, and small, light stuff tends to keep its value better locally ( i think because people can use the minivan or small suv they have to tow and get into trailering), so used 5 or so years old they are still 10k or higher. I've learned my lesson on OSB and glue trailers with my 2 different pop ups (a 2008 and 2010), and I know regardless of getting a brand new one Its going to be haggard by the time its paid off.
Obviously an Escape 19 with some options is pushing double a stick camper, so it is something we will have to save for and it is something I do not want to be burned on with major structural issues, or non repairable stuff.

I plan to look into further, the design of the floor/base of the trailers, it sounds like it is different and better than other fiberglass ones, which is good. I also have questions on the new awnings and how they are mounted structurally since they dont seem to have the vertical support arms now.
And then the electrical system and location of some stuff related to it.
Annnd maybe how the propane piping/tubing is run because I don't care for the placement of the remote outside hook up on the 19. (or the 17a but my wife isn't keen on it like I am)

Finally, also wondering, since we are coming from a pop up where you do not need AC where we camp and have camped, if there is enough nighttime breeze with all the windows open in a 17a or a 19, or if the AC is mandatory. We dry camp many times, using propane for the fridge, and I've converted all our trailers lights to LED so you can go days using lights without issue. We do not want to be limited to power sites when we camp and explore the country.

 

[War Eagle]

... Finally, also wondering, since we are coming from a pop up where you do not need AC where we camp and have camped, if there is enough nighttime breeze with all the windows open in a 17a or a 19, or if the AC is mandatory. We dry camp many times, using propane for the fridge, and I've converted all our trailers lights to LED so you can go days using lights without issue. We do not want to be limited to power sites when we camp and explore the country.

Others on this forum have more experience with a wider variety of Escape models, but I'll go out on a limb and say that all Escapes are designed with ample cross-ventilation, and the standard MaxFan can move some serious air when needed. As for A/C, its a little more what you want out of life at whatever stage of life you're in and what your camping seasons are like where you camp. When my wife and I were young, we used to tent camp in oppressive southeastern Summer heat - high humidity, high 90's to low 100's during the day, mid-80's during the night, and we survived. But now that we're retirement age, we welcome (and are willing to pay for) the comfort and better night's sleep afforded by a cooler sleeping environment. We are a lot more likely to take summer camping trips just knowing the A/C is there if we want it. And you may find you'll extend your camping season and venture further South if you have it.
But as Donna D always reminds us, YMMV (your mileage may vary)!

 

[Wunfiddy]

Others on this forum have more experience with a wider variety of Escape models, but I'll go out on a limb and say that all Escapes are designed with ample cross-ventilation, and the standard MaxFan can move some serious air when needed. As for A/C, its a little more what you want out of life at whatever stage of life you're in and what your camping seasons are like where you camp. When my wife and I were young, we used to tent camp in oppressive southeastern Summer heat - high humidity, high 90's to low 100's during the day, mid-80's during the night, and we survived. But now that we're retirement age, we welcome (and are willing to pay for) the comfort and better night's sleep afforded by a cooler sleeping environment. We are a lot more likely to take summer camping trips just knowing the A/C is there if we want it. And you may find you'll extend your camping season and venture further South if you have it.
But as Donna D always reminds us, YMMV (your mileage may vary)!

Mid 80s over night is insanely warm! A scorcher here is 90 and humid. Most people are bitching about the heat during the day at 85 (not me tho, it makes up for the 40 below in winter) I would say AC is required then. Tho I suppose if you live in that kind of weather you acclimate. We did 5 days dry camping in our pop up with no issue last year with 90 ish day time highs and maybe low 70s over night.

 

[Marry-ESC]

Depending on WHERE you see yourself camping in the near AND far future, HOW you see yourself camping in the near AND far future, will help you building your build sheet.
Find out what type of camping you like, convenience important to you or more the style of boondocking. Once decided on that, you start with the option list.
We live in Alberta, love camping without hookups in the boonies. No need for AC, as that only runs with power. The solar nicely keeps the maxx fan running. At night a window open a crack, and the trailer is cool enough for us in no time.
Take note that an insulated fibreglass trailer stays way cooler in the daytime then a normal trailer.

 

[cpaharley2008]

Having owed 3 Escapes as well as 2 Lances and 3 other brands, you will not be sorry with an Escape. Escape also customizes their units. Many Canadians do not have a/c and with 8 opening windows in a 19' Escape and the MaxxFan over head, you will have plenty of air movement. They hold their value over time unlike the other brands so it is more like an investment. Your journey is about to begin.
I'm not sure what the issue is with the power cord location you mention?

 

[Wunfiddy]

Having owed 3 Escapes as well as 2 Lances and 3 other brands, you will not be sorry with an Escape. Escape also customizes their units. Many Canadians do not have a/c and with 8 opening windows in a 19' Escape and the MaxxFan over head, you will have plenty of air movement. They hold their value over time unlike the other brands so it is more like an investment. Your journey is about to begin.
I'm not sure what the issue is with the power cord location you mention?

The pictures on the website are not the best. How much do the new style windows open? Does the front open, i thought it was a non opening one, which is fine by me.
It is the remote propane hook up location I do not like. It is to the right of the door looking at the trailer, which is not really under the awning. We generally cook outside. Our pop up has a rail for a small shelf and lp gas stove by the axle, so I have lots of room to cook when its raining. Which is typical when we have a 3 day trip.

We like to do 3 to 4 3-4 day weekends a year, twice at rushing river Provincial park in ontario minimum, plus like to do an 8 to 16 day longer trip each year.
So far just in Canada, but don't want to rule out going to the east coast the fast way through the norther US states.
Id be happier spending the extra $ on the upgraded themal windows and insulation vs an AC and another leak point in the roof

 

[Donna D.]

Id be happier spending the extra $ on the upgraded themal windows and insulation vs an AC and another leak point in the roof

The A/C is installed in a vent hole. You lose the vent and gain the A/C. It's not another hole.

 

[cpaharley2008]

The front does not open on a 19, the awning windows open approximately 6", without a/c you have another vent, the propane connection issue can be overcome with a longer hose.

 

[War Eagle]

Mid 80s over night is insanely warm! A scorcher here is 90 and humid. Most people are bitching about the heat during the day at 85 (not me tho, it makes up for the 40 below in winter) I would say AC is required then. Tho I suppose if you live in that kind of weather you acclimate. We did 5 days dry camping in our pop up with no issue last year with 90 ish day time highs and maybe low 70s over night.

I used to work with dairy cows, and they are fine with hot days as long as they can dissipate body heat over night. But when nights remain hot and humid, such that they can't cool off over night, they are not happy campers, so to speak, and their milk production takes a real dive. Ag engineers have devised all kinds of clever ways to help keep dairy cows cool and happy during the Summer, at the feed bunk eating, to keep make lots of milk.

 

[ReagentGrade]

I beloved that all the Escapes are now A/C ready. If you later decide to install an A/C, it can be done. You have to do it without climbing on top of the trailer which complicates the install, but it can be done. Or you can take a vacation to BC and ETI can do it.

 

[Brian B-P]

It is the remote propane hook up location I do not like. It is to the right of the door looking at the trailer, which is not really under the awning. We generally cook outside. Our pop up has a rail for a small shelf and lp gas stove by the axle, so I have lots of room to cook when its raining. Which is typical when we have a 3 day trip.

You're not alone in this opinion. While customization is an Escape advantage, I don't think they will relocate the propane outlet; fortunately, this isn't a problem because you can just add an outlet where you want it after you get the trailer. At least two current owners have installed their own outlets:

• BBQ quick-connect after the fact? (general discussion with Myron's installation in post #24)
• Low Pressure Quick Connect Install

 

[Wunfiddy]

You're not alone in this opinion. While customization is an Escape advantage, I don't think they will relocate the propane outlet; fortunately, this isn't a problem because you can just add an outlet where you want it after you get the trailer. At least two current owners have installed their own outlets:

• BBQ quick-connect after the fact? (general discussion with Myron's installation in post #24)
• Low Pressure Quick Connect Install

I havent had the chance to look at one or under one yet, but I've considered just running my own tubing or piping to a better spot. I am a gas fitter, though these days I seldom actually pipe fit. On my stick pop up its just thick walled copper tubing and flare fittings.

 

[Brian B-P]

On my stick pop up its just thick walled copper tubing and flare fittings.

Escape uses copper tubing (protected by a sleeve) and flare fittings as well, for all propane piping. The alternative is threaded iron pipe (including tees and elbows) under the floor, with transitions to flare fitting for tubing going up to appliances. I believe that all Escape propane tubing behind the axle is inside the shell, meaning that a rear low-pressure outlet would have a separate branch under the floor (which I would rather see in iron) or taking the copper tubing back out through the shell at the rear... but for details a look in person is obviously in order. In any case, even without the details an alternative outlet location is certainly feasible.