How To Winterize a Trailer

[reace]

Winterizing Your Water System


WATER SYSTEM WINTERIZATION UPDATED OCTOBER 29, 2013


When storing your recreational vehicle through periods of freezing weather, in an unheated environment, it will be necessary to winterize the water system. Damage to water system components will result if the proper winterization steps are not taken.
NOTE: Before using the compressed air method, you will need a special adapter known as a blowout plug. This plug allows compressed air to be delivered through the city water fill. This small, inexpensive adapter is available at most RV supply stores.

WINTERIZING WITH COMPRESSED AIR

Purchase 2 gallons of RV non-toxic antifreeze.
1.) Drain the fresh water tank and empty the waste water holding tanks.
2.) Turn the 2 water heater bypass valves to the ‘bypass’ position. (The valves are located near the water heater incoming lines at the rear of the water heater.)
3.) Drain the water heater by removing the anode (1-1/16” Socket Wrench) and opening taps. Flush out sediment build-up in water heater if necessary. Reinstall hot water tank plug with new Teflon tape.
4.) Open all faucets, including shower head sprayer, (if applicable), toilet flushing device and any other water lines that are closed.
5.) Turn on the water pump for at least 30 seconds to clear any water from the lines.
7.) Connect an air hose with an adapter (blow out plug) to the city water fill connection.
8.) Set the pressure to no greater than 30# (pounds) and blow out the water lines until no water can be seen coming out of the fixtures and lines.
9.) Pour antifreeze down sink and shower drains to fill p-traps.
NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE WATER HEATER OR USE THE PLUMBING SYSTEM AFTER THE SYSTEM HAS BEEN WINTERIZED. DEWINTERIZE, FLUSH AND SANITIZE THE WATER SYSTEM PRIOR TO USE.


WINTERIZING WITH ANTIFREEZE ONLY

WARNING: NEVER USE AUTOMOTIVE ANITFREEZE IN YOUR FRESH WATER SYSTEM. AUTOMOTIVE ANITFREEZE IS TOXIC AND NOT FOR USE IN POTABLE (DRINKABLE) WATER SYSTEMS.
Purchase 4-6 gallons of RV approved, non-toxic antifreeze.
1.) Drain the fresh water tank and empty the waste water holding tanks.
2.) Turn water heater bypass valves to ‘bypass’ position.
3.) Drain the water heater by removing the anode (1-1/16” Socket Wrench) and opening taps. Flush out sediment build-up in water heater if necessary. Reinstall hot water tank plug with new Teflon tape.
4.) Fill the tank above minimum water pump operation level with the RV antifreeze. (Use of a long funnel may be helpful.)
5.) Turn the pump switch ‘ON’ and open the cold water side of all faucet fixtures. Leave the faucets open until the antifreeze, (generally pink in color), flows out of the faucets and shower heads. Repeat for the hot water side.
6.) Flush toilet until antifreeze is visible inside the bowl and pour one gallon of antifreeze down the toilet to winterize the black holding tank.
7.) Pour antifreeze down sink and shower drains to fill p-traps.

DEWINTERIZING YOUR RV

NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TURN ON THE WATER HEATER OR USE THE PLUMBING SYSTEM ONCE THE SYSTEM HAS BEEN WINTERIZED. DEWINTERIZE THE WATER SYSTEM, FLUSH AND SANITIZE PRIOR TO USE.
1.) Drain all holding tanks, (fresh water and sewage).
2.) Attach garden hose to fresh water fill and fill tank.
3.) Turn ‘ON’ pump switch and open cold water side of all faucet/shower fixtures. Leave open until the water runs clear, (no pink residue). Repeat for the hot water side.
4.) Flush toilet until clear water runs into bowl.
5.) Dump tanks again.
6.) Sanitize the water system.
7.) If a water filter has been installed, drain the lines, remove the assembly, clean and reinstall using a new filter.
8.) When ready to use the water heater, turn by-pass valve to open position to allow water to enter and fill the hot water heater tank.

 

[gbaglo]

Tammy,

Ok, I'll start the raft of questions. Where do I get the "air fitting" from and what provides the 50 p.s.i. ?

Is the winterizing demonstrated in the video we did still valid? If so, it might help if people reviewed that section ( at the end of the video ).

baglo

 

[Donna D.]

Schrader Valve? http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/brady-schrader-air-valve-air-inlet-for-water-systems-p-34763.html?ref=42. Pretty dang cheap.

 

[GaryH]

Great advice, especially for us that have just bought one this year! Also, what about keeping some Dry-z-air crystals in the trailer (to keep moisture down to a dull roar). Thanks, Gary

 

[gbaglo]

Read the instructions with Dry-Z-Air. That liquid that is collected isn't water. Don't remember what it becomes, but you don't want to spill it like I did.

baglo

 

[gbaglo]

Great advice, especially for us that have just bought one this year! Also, what about keeping some Dry-z-air crystals in the trailer (to keep moisture down to a dull roar). Thanks, Gary

Thanks, but where do I get the air at 50 p.s.i. ? I'm a smoker.....

baglo

 

[Hokie Escape]

If you don't have enough lung power, use an air compressor : - )

 

[gbaglo]

I figure an air compressor, but I don't want to spend $300. Can't I buy it in a can for $7 at Canadian Tire? If I got a compressor, I'd have to buy air tools.

baglo

 

[52 chev]

I've got a compressor but it supplies 120psi. I guess I'll need some sort of reducing valve?
Al

 

[gbaglo]

C'mon Tammy, we're all blowing air here. What's the answer?
Last year I just emptied the tanks as best I could as per Tammy's instructions and added anti-freeze to the traps. I didn't blow the lines dry or pump anti-freeze into them, but I did keep a heater running in the trailer, keeping the temp up to 45 - 50 F.

I rather wonder how effective using compressed air to blow the lines dry would be. If they have already been drained there may be some water left in the lines, but there would also be plenty of room for expansion should they freeze. Compressed air might just disperse the water in droplets throughout the lines. Anybody care to set me straight?

I would love a nail gun though. Would that get me admission to the NRA?

baglo

 

[gbaglo]

Here's a thought. Probably not much of a thought, but I bought a Wagner spray painter about three years ago. Never been used. But might that be employed somehow to provide the compressed air?

baglo

 

[Jim Bennett]

I was wondering on the air thing too. Thanks for the link to that fitting Donna, I will have to look for one, though I would be an RV shop would have it. An air compressor can have the output pressure adjusted to whatever you would like. If you don't have one, I bet a neighbour or friend would have one you could borrow, or you could rent one for an hour or so.

If there is a disconnect switch for the batteries, would you still need to remove the leads. There should be no chance of a current draw. And if so, should the batteries be brought in so they could get a wee trickle charge every once in a while. I will be cold storing my trailer out at on some rec land we have.

 

[reace]

Hi Glenn,

Sorry to concern you...given your age an all. LOL

We use a air compressor, got a small one at Canadian tire on sale a few years ago to use around the house. (Not that we are ever there) LOL

The way you did it last year is also fine. Remember there are two methods. The one I posted is the one we use here at the shop.

Tammy

 

[Hokie Escape]

Glenn, don't blow your chance to get the nailer!
But, if you really don't need one, use method #2.
Drain all the tanks as best you can.
Bypass the hot water heater (valve inside the camper, under the seat)
Remove the hot water heater drain plug, and drain thoroughly. Replace with new teflon or replace if corroded. You can leave it out, but it might get damaged or lost over winter. (But leave the heater bypassed - you DO NOT want antifreeze in your heater)
Add a couple of gallons of RV antifreeze to your fresh water tank.
Turn on the water pump and run water out of EVERY faucet (hot/cold/shower/exterior shower) until pink runs out.
Add a cup or so of antifreeze to each "p" trap (sinks and shower). All this will be putting some antifreeze in your grey tank.
Add some antifreeze to the black tank (about a quart to be safe) and leave some in the toilet.

Frankly, that's a lot simplier to me than getting the compressor out (that I bought for my nailer's).
I too leave a little heater in Hokie, to keep down moisture mostly. Plus, when I just want to go out and sit a while and dream of spring, it doesn't take too much to get it up to a comfortable temp.
I'd love to do more winter camping, but everything closes up around here except KOA's (yuk).

 

[escape artist]

Hi: All... I think the best way to winterize a trailer is to simply hitch up and haul SOUTH!!! Somewhere south of Frostproof Florida maybe???
Sure wish I was retired :'( Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

 

[Hokie Escape]

Alf, I love your solution. Ever since we got Hokie, I've said many times "work just seems to be getting in the way"!
You get the award for the best "winterizing solution".

 

[Donna D.]

Complete with pictures: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/winter.html

 

[Hokie Escape]

And while you're there (Fiberglass RV site) read the good article on winter camping (http://www.fiberglassrv.com/winter_camping.html)
Sounds like fun!

 

[gbaglo]

So sing happy birthday to me. I bought a Porter Cable 6 gal. compressor with 2" nailer. ( I have molding to install after putting down new kitchen tile so it will multi-task ). Now I just have to find that Schrader valve in the Vancouver area and learn how to blow out the lines. I presume you open all the taps, but I'm wondering how the water heater fits into that scenario. Anyone able to steer me to the info?

baglo

 

[Jim Bennett]

You know Glenn, that brad nailer can be dangerous in the wrong hands. ;D