emers382
Senior Member
I like your cork floor Jim, how about I ship you my floor and you can do mine;D
I like your cork floor Jim, how about I ship you my floor and you can do mine;D
Dave Walter
Senior Member
Brian and Donna are on the right track. However, rather than one large cutout, another variation may be to drill a series of strategically placed holes on the inside of the door from which foam insulation would be installed. When done, the holes could be filled with white plastic caps, and would look almost factory in appearance. Maybe something like these.
Ron in BC
Senior Member
Gotta agree with you there. The R value of reflectix inside a confined space is about 1 as far as I can determine. Foam would be the way to go.
Ron
Ron in BC
Senior Member
My comment was based on a quote on the first page of the The World’s Largest Manufacturer of Reflective Insulation and Radiant Barrier Products
website. It appears that the R-value varies widely depending on the type of installation. It also only deals with radiant loss, not conductive loss which the foam would deal with much more effectively.
That being said, I still ordered the extra insulation on mine on the theory that more is better. Also I wanted the thermal windows. I know the frames will still sweat but two layers of glass are still better than one.
If I find cold weather causes issues I would fill the door with beads and/or apply a padded foam liner to the interior of the door. For the windows I would use a foam tape. It wouldn't be perfect but it'd likely greater reduce condensation.
Ron
website. It appears that the R-value varies widely depending on the type of installation. It also only deals with radiant loss, not conductive loss which the foam would deal with much more effectively.
That being said, I still ordered the extra insulation on mine on the theory that more is better. Also I wanted the thermal windows. I know the frames will still sweat but two layers of glass are still better than one.
If I find cold weather causes issues I would fill the door with beads and/or apply a padded foam liner to the interior of the door. For the windows I would use a foam tape. It wouldn't be perfect but it'd likely greater reduce condensation.
Ron
All,
If you consider cutting into your door to insulate first build a jig to maintain x-y-z diemensions (Cartesian Coordinates) ,concave and convex surface radius etc. Before you cut clamp it in the jig cut, insulate and then reglass the cut out piece back in place. If you use a carbide fine wood trim blade or router you will have min 3/32" to 1/4" kerf ensure the blade is SHARP . Freud makes some good blades and router bits mind you the router bit will be a larger kerf. You may wish to tape either side of your cut to reduce chipping, once you have the cut out you will need to add filler pieces around the edges attached to the interior so that when you place the cut out back in it sits even with the surface search Flush Patching Honey comb fiberglass in google you will find links to the basics of how it is accomplished. I have only glossed the surface on how to do this. I do not recommend anyone who has not done this type of work attempting this with out someone who knows what they are doing you stand a very good chance of ruining your door. If the dimensions and curves are not held it will not fit or close right again. I have done this work on aircraft bonded honeycomb panels with multiple radius's it would take over a week to do it right between building the jig, cutting , install insulation, install backers to support cut out, install cut out, reglass kerf then test fit if it works gel coat and refit. That is presuming you have a fully equipped shop for building the jig, heat room curing, vacuum pump and all the fiberglass materials. A compentent boat shop could do the work or if you live near an airport find out who does Air Craft Structural Repairs locally they could do it. The drill and fill method might work though yes what ever product you use might settle some atleast your only fixing small holes not risking the doors shape. IMHO
Has anyone approached ETI on ordering a door insulated for a swap out ( core charge type system though color match might be an issue), sending them the door for them to do it either way would be costly but just a thought. Perhaps ETI could take a picture of the door halves before they are joined so if someone wants to see where to drill and fill etc they know what is behind the panel.
Cypherian
If you consider cutting into your door to insulate first build a jig to maintain x-y-z diemensions (Cartesian Coordinates) ,concave and convex surface radius etc. Before you cut clamp it in the jig cut, insulate and then reglass the cut out piece back in place. If you use a carbide fine wood trim blade or router you will have min 3/32" to 1/4" kerf ensure the blade is SHARP . Freud makes some good blades and router bits mind you the router bit will be a larger kerf. You may wish to tape either side of your cut to reduce chipping, once you have the cut out you will need to add filler pieces around the edges attached to the interior so that when you place the cut out back in it sits even with the surface search Flush Patching Honey comb fiberglass in google you will find links to the basics of how it is accomplished. I have only glossed the surface on how to do this. I do not recommend anyone who has not done this type of work attempting this with out someone who knows what they are doing you stand a very good chance of ruining your door. If the dimensions and curves are not held it will not fit or close right again. I have done this work on aircraft bonded honeycomb panels with multiple radius's it would take over a week to do it right between building the jig, cutting , install insulation, install backers to support cut out, install cut out, reglass kerf then test fit if it works gel coat and refit. That is presuming you have a fully equipped shop for building the jig, heat room curing, vacuum pump and all the fiberglass materials. A compentent boat shop could do the work or if you live near an airport find out who does Air Craft Structural Repairs locally they could do it. The drill and fill method might work though yes what ever product you use might settle some atleast your only fixing small holes not risking the doors shape. IMHO
Has anyone approached ETI on ordering a door insulated for a swap out ( core charge type system though color match might be an issue), sending them the door for them to do it either way would be costly but just a thought. Perhaps ETI could take a picture of the door halves before they are joined so if someone wants to see where to drill and fill etc they know what is behind the panel.
Cypherian
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gbaglo
Senior Member
With that warning, I'm gonna pull the covers over my head.
thoer
Senior Member
It will be a cold day in **** when I cut open my door. However, on a recent camping trip dear one complained of her head being cold overnight, which puzzled me since we have the double panes. Heat loss at metal window frames does get my attention. Now, what to do?
cpaharley2008
Senior Member
Get yourself a 21', no windows near your head.
paulw
Senior Member
or, if everything else is warm, a lightweight wool beanie - about $32K cheaper 
.
.
cpaharley2008
Senior Member
True, it can match your jammies!!
gocamp-ESC
Senior Member
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