Installing Solar on a 2008 and lifespan on a 2008 3 way fridge?

[Ruck_and_Roll]

Hey all,
My wife and I are thinking about buying a used older 2008 Escape 17. It is in great shape and was well cared for. Unfortunately our camping styles would be very different than the current owners and we would want it “boondock ready.” I’ve done the upgrade to lithium, rigid solar, and DC fridge on my current truck camper so I’m comfortable with some DIY work. What has me balking somewhat is fiberglass!

1. What is the typical lifespan of a 2008 3 way fridge? Can we expect to look for an alternative soon?

2. For those who have gone this route, I see the first decision between rigid and flexible panels pros/cons? I’m worried about mounting rigid panels to the roof with a a fiberglass camper.

3. Where do folks run their wires? I anticipate the solar charge controller being placed in the front under the bed by the rest of the electronics. Are there “non drill” options?

Best,

Luke

 

[alanmalk]

I can address your #2 question since I own and use both a rigid panel and a flexible panel.
First - I am very happy to keep them off my roof since I like to park in shade. The movable
panels allow me to find a sunny spot and then position them at the best angle for max power.
Especially important in the low sun seasons.

My rigid panel is 150 watts, roughly the same size as the factory roof panel. I designed an
"A" frame hinge with legs and had a local welder attach it permanently to the panel. It is
super easy to set up and aim. But, it weighs too much, it just barely fits in my truck topper
and needs a helper to get in and out. Once in position it stays put in a hurricane.

My flexable panel is lighter, folds up into a smaller space, has a nice handle and the best
part - it is rated at 200 watts. On the other hand, it is cranky about being aimed at the
best angle and it catches the wind and flops over easily. Once or twice I have returned from
fishing at the end of the day and have found the flex panel face down. Very hard to
produce power in that direction!

My bottom line is I like them both - when I can live with the limitations.

 

[Ron in BC]

1. Some folks have the mis-fortune to have very new fridges and have issues. Some middle age and older are still going strong. It's a crap shoot. Personally I'd keep using it using it until it failed. But I'd also have done a little bit of research to know what I'd replace it with if it did fail. It's a comfort level thing.

2. I've 45 years of experience drilling and bolting things to f.g. It's a non-issue. I prefer bolting my rigid panels to the roof but have had flexible panels in the past. Now I use a flexible panel as a portable panel. Works for me.

3. Yes, there's usually a no drill option. Through a vent and down behind a corner batten.

Ron

 

[Ruck_and_Roll]

Awesome, thank you! That is somewhat reassuring. Is there a guide somewhere on drilling into fiberglass? I was reading through some old posts and looks like tape and drill. Do you you have a preferred bit type?

 

[Ron in BC]

I've read that too. Not that I've ever done it.

One trick some use is to run the drill in reverse to make a starting divot. Keeps the bit from skating off if you don't have a lot of experience. Running in reverse to start applies to hole saws also.

What you don't want is a drill with a high rake grind. They tend to grab and pull the bit in fast.

If you have any kind of f.g. shop nearby ask them them for a piece of scrap. It's the sort of thing that once you've done it a couple of times you'll see how easy it is. Some woods are much more problematic to drill.

Ron

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

for running wires, I'd considering using a 'gland', which is a sort of waterproof cable entry thing commonly used on boats.

For mounting the panel(s), I prefer rigid panels, and I mounted mine using a pair of aluminum 3/4x3" box moldings, like this...

now, my trailer came with a smaller 160W panel, so Escape had mouunted that much smaller silver molding as well as the gland on the right, I needed to raise my much larger 360W panel higher up.

some more views...

 

[John in Santa Cruz]

for drilling, use Brad Point drill bits... I've heard it suggested to start the bit backwards with very light pressure before switching to forward and drilling through. you want the type on the left of this picture.

 

[Ron in BC]

One thing about panel mounting is that you want the bolts to be hidden in the cupboard ceiling and not visible on the interior ceiling. I angled my brackets so that the bolts remain hidden and not visible.

Glands are fine but if there's a usable vertical chase then I use it.

Ron

 

[Galen]

Hey all,
My wife and I are thinking about buying a used older 2008 Escape 17. It is in great shape and was well cared for. Unfortunately our camping styles would be very different than the current owners and we would want it “boondock ready.” I’ve done the upgrade to lithium, rigid solar, and DC fridge on my current truck camper so I’m comfortable with some DIY work. What has me balking somewhat is fiberglass!

1. What is the typical lifespan of a 2008 3 way fridge? Can we expect to look for an alternative soon?

2. For those who have gone this route, I see the first decision between rigid and flexible panels pros/cons? I’m worried about mounting rigid panels to the roof with a a fiberglass camper.

3. Where do folks run their wires? I anticipate the solar charge controller being placed in the front under the bed by the rest of the electronics. Are there “non drill” options?

Best,

Luke

 

[Galen]

I had a 1978 Avion with the original Dometic 2way refrigerator. It worked fine all those years. I sold the trailer about 4 years ago. I did clean the gas orifice and flu. There are plenty of of recourses on line showing proper maintenance of these refrigerators. Pretty simple task if you have even the slightest DYI abilities.

 

[riverplace]

Our 2006 17B still has original domestic 3 way fridge. DC not working, but I think that’s a different issue. I switched the hinges when the door started sagging and now use child safety locks to keep it closed while traveling. Only had to clean the flue and orifice once. It still works well and we keep it on gas most of the time since we boondock mostly.

 

[W@nderer]

Hey all,
My wife and I are thinking about buying a used older 2008 Escape 17. It is in great shape and was well cared for. Unfortunately our camping styles would be very different than the current owners and we would want it “boondock ready.” I’ve done the upgrade to lithium, rigid solar, and DC fridge on my current truck camper so I’m comfortable with some DIY work. What has me balking somewhat is fiberglass!

1. What is the typical lifespan of a 2008 3 way fridge? Can we expect to look for an alternative soon?


Best,

Luke

Hi Luke, congrats on the trailer (if you get it). My way of thinking, and I think Ron said it also, just use the fridge and dont worry about it. We had a three way in a Casita and it was great. Keep the rig level and you likely will get years of use since it has already been proven to be reliable.

As far as drilling into the fibreglass, I have heard the tape method as well, also, you can use a piece of plexiglass as a drill guide "jig" to hold the bit in place when starting your drill hole, too. That would allow you to see where the hole needs to be. I know some folks use and swear by the 3M™ VHB™ Tape (Very High Bond). I have used it on occaisions and it is a great product. Not sure how much I would trust it for a large panel, though. I will see if I can find the posts on that to see how it has held up over the years.

Our Escape is the second fibreglass trailer for us. We like the construction much better than other trailer types.

 

[Enahs]

Look closely at 3M VHB #4950 Double-sided Acrylic Foam Adhesive Tape available on eBay. Works very well on my son's Escape solar installation — two large panels. Two years and many miles later. IMO better than drilling and sealing. IIRC, they are ZAMP panels and we attached a couple of extra mounting feet to each one.

 

[Ron in BC]

IMO better than drilling and sealing.

Better how? Easier but not better in terms of long term security. I remember the horror felt when the first bonded on panels ripped off and went flying. Even when I'm hit with violent crosswinds I never have any concern that my through bolted panel will be ripped off the roof.

We all have our comfort levels on various things. Mine's through bolting.

Ron

 

[Enahs]

IIRC, panels that ripped off were epoxied on. As for long-term security, that includes leaking and water damage. Yes, depends on comfort level.

 

[GregWCIL]

Better how? Easier but not better in terms of long term security. I remember the horror felt when the first bonded on panels ripped off and went flying. Even when I'm hit with violent crosswinds I never have any concern that my through bolted panel will be ripped off the roof.

We all have our comfort levels on various things. Mine's through bolting.

Ron

I’m with Ron on this issue. I thru-bolted a large aluminum frame for three, 400 watt panels. There are many places to bolt thru the roof of our 5.0 and keep the fasteners hidden inside the cabinets. I took the extra step of gluing 3/4 in plywood blocks (about 4 x 4 in.) inside the fiberglass to distribute the load.
Biggest issue was locating where to drill from the outside to hit the right spot inside - no square corners to measure from. In some places I drilled thru the wood strips just inside the cabinet fronts.

 

[Ron in BC]

Biggest issue was locating where to drill from the outside to hit the right spot inside - no square corners to measure from. In some places I drilled thru the wood strips just inside the cabinet fronts.

Welcome to the club. I used fender washers on the interior. I think that my attachment points are strong enough to lift the trailer. The panel flying off isn't something that I'll ever have to worry about. I used an EPDM compression gasket on the exterior, same as I do on boats. Very leak proof.

Ron