Jack Antenna

[75thRanger]

Probably for the same reasoning I bought A/C , living on the Canadian border with no intentions of going farther South than Iowa .

Got hot on the options and couldn't quit.

 

[TTMartin]

I really like the idea of the foam boards for the insulation. Would you provide more specifics on type/thickness and specifically what surface material will be facing out (facing the road) from the underside of the trailer? How will you secure the foam board to the trailer underside. I'm not envisioning how road debris won't tear up the foam board.

Thank you for your multiple and lengthy replies. That's what this Forum is all about. You've been a great help.

Here is thread on this forum where someone used Pink Foam Board Insulation.

Adding underfloor insulation

I will likely use the same, as the white Styrofoam cooler type insulation boards can absorb water.

Based on theses two YouTube videos:

What's the BEST Glue for XPS FOAM?

BEST GLUE FOR STYROFOAM! Spray Foam Adhesive For Polystyrene

My plan is to use Great Stuff to bond the boards to the bottom of the trailer, fill any voids, and insulate the drain pipes.

If Great Stuff fails to bond the foamboard to the gelcoat, my other choices would be Gorilla Glue Construction Adhesive, and Super 77. I have used Super 77 to hold up insulation to the walls in my Sprinter van conversion.

Someone else commented on using heat pads to keep the dump valves from freezing. They do make smaller heatpads, that can be attached to the pipes in close proximity to the dump valves.

Facon 3" x 13" RV Elbow Pipe Heater Pad, Work for 3" Elbow Pipe on RV, Camper, Travel Trailer and Motorhome, 12V DC

While this doesn't guarantee they won't freeze I'm hoping it would help.

 

[dlakeman]

Escape 21 Hitch Weight

no way a 21 has a 350 lb hitch weight, when its got a 5000 lb GWR. at its max load, the hitch weight /should/ be 10-15% of the GWR, or 500-750 lbs. you can affect this by how you load, more weight in the back of the trailer == lighter tongue, more weight in front == heavier tongue.

running around 4000-4200 lbs typical load on my 2014 21 classic, my hitch is anywhere from 400 to 500 lbs depending on load. if I have a 50 lbs and 25 lb bicycle on a 40 lb rack on the rear hitch of the escape, the tongue is often borderline too light.
.

So I'm not to believe what I read in Escape Trailer's 2020 Brochure on the 21C? I'm really struggling with that. If I can't put faith in their data then how can I put faith in anything else they say! Their advertised hitch weight is for a Standard 21C without options (or cargo) as I understand it. As I mentioned in my post, add the Storage Box (+100 lbs) and fill up the propane tanks, the result should be around 500 lbs. I do plan on putting weight in the back of the trailer to get the 400-500 lb tongue weight, which is critical for my tow capability. I don't know if there any differences between a 2014 21Classic and a 2020 21C so I have to believe what I read from Escape. My decision to purchase the trailer is based upon the data presented to me by Escape and my vehicle actual weights. Because of the very close margins I can't go wrong or the result will be I won't be able to tow the trailer. That's scary! Having 30% more power and torque than a stock 4Runner due to supercharging is giving me confidence I'll be OK, but I still want to stick with the 4Runner's weight limits. If I had a stock 4Runner I probably wouldn't be moving forward with the purchase. I'll be a 2-3 day camper so I won't have a lot of "junk" in the trailer to add weight.

 

[Ronn]

View attachment 49664
What appears to be an Escape 21NE, that was being towed by the white SUV.

YIKES!!!

 

[steve dunham]

Escape’s numbers are accurate based on the stated criteria
Escape does not know or control which options you will purchase , how much stuff you will carry , how you will load the trailer or the capabilities of your tow vehicle so their is no way for them to accurately state the tongue weight for every trailer
If you choose to run at or over your vehicles capacity , that is your decision
If It was my decision, I would get a different tow vehicle with a higher tow / payload rating and sufficient for the purpose and just eliminate the issue .

 

[dlakeman]

Escape’s numbers are accurate based on the stated criteria
Escape does not know or control which options you will purchase , how much stuff you will carry , how you will load the trailer or the capabilities of your tow vehicle so their is no way for them to accurately state the tongue weight for every trailer
If you choose to run at or over your vehicles capacity , that is your decision
If It was my decision, I would get a different tow vehicle with a higher tow / payload rating and sufficient for the purpose and just eliminate the issue .

Thanks Steve. I have no intention of running over my tow vehicle limits. It's not safe. I may be close to the limits, but not over. Getting another vehicle is not an option unfortunately or I would.

 

[dlakeman]

YIKES!!!

Yike is right! However here's what's not known.
Was he exceeding the weight limits of his tow vehicle or trailer?
Was he exceeding the speed limit for the turn?
Did he have a tire failure due to exceeding the speed limit of his tires? Many times I've seen motorists towing trailers doing 75-80 MPH. Nuts!
Was he weaving in and out of traffic and made too tight of a turn?
Was he trying to stop and his brakes failed, resulting in swerving to avoid hitting something?
Etc.?

 

[Ron in BC]

Here is thread on this forum where someone used Pink Foam Board Insulation.

Adding underfloor insulation

I will likely use the same, as the white Styrofoam cooler type insulation boards can absorb water.

That's my installation of foam. I've done it both on the 19 and my 21. It does make for a warmer floor to walk on and preserves the ability to access plumbing and wiring.

Definitely don't want to use Styrofoam. It would probably get shredded. One nice surprise is that even after cross Canada, Alaska and Baja roads, the foam has received only the most minor of cosmetic damage.

Ron

 

[TTMartin]

That's my installation of foam. I've done it both on the 19 and my 21. It does make for a warmer floor to walk on and preserves the ability to access plumbing and wiring.

Definitely don't want to use Styrofoam. It would probably get shredded. One nice surprise is that even after cross Canada, Alaska and Baja roads, the foam has received only the most minor of cosmetic damage.

Ron

Thanks for the update, on how it has held up.

After seeing your post, and then actually seeing a Escape 19, I decided I wanted to add my own insulation. Initially, I asked ETI about their adding the heat pads without the Spray Foam. They declined, but, offered to prewire for heat pads as a 'Heat Pad Ready' option. That's an ideal option for me. I can decide what heat pads I want and where. I can also do my own insulation, which like you I wanted to be able to access things that might need repair or maintenance. I plan on keeping the trailer long term, and that's important for me.

 

[dlakeman]

Escape just emailed me that if I purchase a 21C with all the Options my tongue weight will be approximately 400 pounds. Approximate is because the 400 pound calculation does not include 40 pounds of propane liquid. Calculation is empty trailer.

 

[tdf-texas]

Escape just emailed me that if I purchase a 21C with all the Options my tongue weight will be approximately 400 pounds. Approximate is because the 400 pound calculation does not include 40 pounds of propane liquid. Calculation is empty trailer.

Uh...

That might not be correct. I have a 21c and the measured tongue weight with the trailer loaded is more like 650 lbs. We did a survey weighing using a Sherline at Quartzite and the average 21c tongue weight was over 550 lbs.

Going from 400 to 550-650 lbs is a lot for going from empty to travel weight.

 

[TTMartin]

Going from 400 to 550-650 lbs is a lot for going from empty to travel weight.

Actually it's pretty easy to believe a couple hundred pounds added tongue weight on a 21C. Everything added to the under bed storage on a 21C adds to the tongue weight.

A 19 or 21NE where the under bed storage is to the rear, might be harder to believe.

 

[recray]

I’m thinking there might be a better antenna out there. Our Jack antenna has a water leak and drips on the bed when driving in rain. Working with Jack at the present time, but they are slow on response.
Ray
2020 E21

 

[padlin]

Ray
Can you add the 21 as the trailer in your profile as opposed to none?

 

[Ron in BC]

I’m thinking there might be a better antenna out there. Our Jack antenna has a water leak and drips on the bed when driving in rain. Working with Jack at the present time, but they are slow on response.
Ray
2020 E21

There is. The Antop that I make reference to in post #5 outperforms the King. I've had a King previously, used both in the same locations and the Antop receives more stations.

The photo in post #5, at an RV site by an airport in Tehachapi, was a good test. The RV park operator handed out an info sheet that listed 4 possible TV stations that could be picked up. The Antop picked up about 16. The vertical antenna component must actually work.

Ron

 

[recray]

There is. The Antop that I make reference to in post #5 outperforms the King. I've had a King previously, used both in the same locations and the Antop receives more stations.

The photo in post #5, at an RV site by an airport in Tehachapi, was a good test. The RV park operator handed out an info sheet that listed 4 possible TV stations that could be picked up. The Antop picked up about 16. The vertical antenna component must actually work.

Ron

Hi Ron,
Thanks for the good info.
Ray

 

[SecondWind]

Here's the final version of my build sheet. This is my first Escape, but, not my first RV trailer. Feel free to ask any question you have on why I chose or didn't chose certain options.

Escape 19

Maple wood, Mill Creek Axle #4182 flooring, Silver Shalestone #9307-58 Formica with Black trim, Chinchilla Ultra Leather #6009 fabric, Battleship Gray #870 graphics.

Fridge (6 Cubic Foot)
Foot Flush Toilet
Toilet Shut Off Valve
Exterior Shower Passenger Side
Dual 6V Batteries Escape Supplied
190W Solar Panel with Charge Controller
Surge Protector
Removable Power Cord
Air Conditioner with Digital Thermostat (Dometic 11,000 BTU)
Keyless Door Lock
TV/Cable Ready with 120V Outlet
Window in Bathroom (Opening, Framed, Thermal)
Window in Kitchen (Opening, Framed, Thermal)
High Lift Axle
Double Step Entry Step
Cabinet Door at End of Bench
Exterior Propane Quick Connect with 12' Propane Hose and Adapter
Storage Box
Springfield Marine Pedestal for Dinette Table Slider Installed
One additional 12 volt outlet on bed side of kitchen / bed wall
Two additional Exterior LED lights front and rear
AMBER lens on all four exterior lights
Drawer under Wardrobe Closet
One Wardrobe shelf centered, I will add more adjustable shelves
Two 8 1/2" x 18" counter top extensions one on each of the bedroom walls
Full Wrap on Cushions and 3 additional yards of fabric
DO NOT INSTALL Solar and EMS remote displays leave in cabinet
DO NOT INSTALL handles on doors beneath fridge, bed, and dinette (may use doors as drawer fronts)
Stainless Steel Backsplash
Heat Pads Ready - run wires to beneath trailer and coil, do toggles etc inside trailer like normal
12V Drop - inside DS OH cabinet beside fridge wired to stereo 12V dedicated line
Two 8' pieces of Maple outside corner trim
One 4'x4' sheet of Maple paneling
Additional 13"x15" counter extension - DO NOT INSTALL to be used as drop leaf at 'pointy end' of dinette table
REINFORCE W1 and W5 - W1 (kitchen / bed) required for bedside counter extension, W5 (bathroom wall facing door), to allow grab rail in the bathroom in the future.
MODIFY KITCHEN CABINET under cooktop to accommodate Cx provided Convection Oven.
Two Filled Propane Tanks
X - Chocks

Did you end up using the counter extension as a drop leaf for the table? Any pics? TY.