Loud clicking noise using generator to power 9500

The gen has a floating ground so I made a bonding plug.

Same results. When a/c compressor kicked on, the sudden clattering noise. But this time the EMS shut down the power after 2-3 seconds.

E4 error--low voltage. Also the EMS display showed 26 amps. Not sure why it still displayed amps when it had shut down. Also how could the gen pump 26 amps? The gen didn't indicate overload.

Thanks for helping me sort through this issue!

The Amp meter on the EMS uses a circular coil around the wire to measure the current. The wire has to be straight to get an accurate reading. When Escape installed mine they had a bend in the wire, this caused high readings. I called GoPower and they sent me a new coil, but, in the mean time I trimmed and straightened the wire. That gave me much more accurate readings. I never installed the new coil.

As far as your generator be sure it is NOT set to ECO mode. That will require the generator to 'spin up' when the load increases, often not fast enough for the compressor load.
 
As Daryl (7Gentex) points out, there is a specific problem with that model Yamaha generator & the Progressive Industries EMS. I remember a posting on one of their web pages stating they were not compatible. If I remember correctly, there were enough small spikes when under heavy load that the EMS electronics switched the contractor (relay) off & on.
 
It appears there is a problem with this Yamaha gen and EMS. The gen never indicates an overload when A/C compressor kicks on. Just the loud clattering from the EMS for a few seconds and shuts off power.

As I mentioned earlier, I have two Yamaha EF 2000iS generators connected in parallel. I purchased in 2014 and they have very little use. I sure was hoping I could get by with just one.
 
Per Progressive Industries..............WOW!

https://www.progressiveindustries.net/disclaimer

"Yamaha Generator

Please be advised the Yamaha Generator Model EF2000iS does not generate enough start-up current which causes the unit to overload. The generator then puts out non-true Sine Wave power. Progressive Industries units are designed to operate only on True Sine Wave power.

For this reason, The Progressive Industries Warranty is hereby void if an EMS Unit is used in conjunction with a Yamaha Generator Model EF2000iS. Any damage sustained to the EMS unit are the sole responsibility of the customer."
 
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But.......?

My old noise maker Champion 46540 (non-inverter gen) works fine with the EMS - doubt it is "true" sine wave?
 
Wow! Amazing you found the Progressive Industry disclaimer concerning the Yamaha gen. Because of the loud clattering of the EMS, I see how it can cause damage. Now I know not to attempt running my A/C with one Yamaha gen!
 
I have an A-Ipower 2300 watt generator and soft start installed. Unfortunately, the Dometic AC in our 19 requires a bit more surge power at startup than the generator can handle.
When I try to run the A/C I get the same chattering you describe from my EMS so I quit trying.
One of these days I hope to camp with someone with the Honda 2000 or 2200 so I can try theirs, since those seem to handle start up surges better, from what I've been reading, maybe because they have more displacement and torque than my generator.
 
I have an A-Ipower 2300 watt generator and soft start installed. Unfortunately, the Dometic AC in our 19 requires a bit more surge power at startup than the generator can handle.
When I try to run the A/C I get the same chattering you describe from my EMS so I quit trying.
One of these days I hope to camp with someone with the Honda 2000 or 2200 so I can try theirs, since those seem to handle start up surges better, from what I've been reading, maybe because they have more displacement and torque than my generator.

What I do with my Dometic Penguin II 13.5K BTU air conditioner to run it off of both a WEN2350 or a Champion 2500 Dual Fuel on propane (separately not together) is:

Turn off all breakers except the 30 Amp main breaker and the Air Conditioner breaker.
Set the Fan on the thermostat to LOW, not Auto.
Make sure the generator is NOT in ECO mode.

This works for me without having a Soft Start on my air conditioner.
 
We bought this generator for this reason it also has a 30 amp outlet so you can use the regular trailer power cord
 

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We bought this generator for this reason it also has a 30 amp outlet so you can use the regular trailer power cord
Begging tolerance for an aside question about your Champion generator Model 100809 regarding the claimed NEMA 5-20R outlets

Does your generator have "T" slot 20 amp receptacles? I ask because a pic on the Amazon listing of the control panel shows no, but the manual shows yes, and I'd like to be sure (I have need for a true NEMA 5-20R outlet with "T" slots):
Pages from 100809-om-english.pdf.jpg


Thanks in advance!
 
Yes it does have the 20 amp recpticle. It’s also has a 12volt outlet
 

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(I have need for a true NEMA 5-20R outlet with "T" slots):

Who in the world has anything with a 20 amp 5-20P plug on it?

OK, I typed the stuff below before I read your statement above, so not wanting to waste what I typed, here is it.

The 20 amp outlet means nothing. If you break open an identical quality level of a 15 amp (or even just peer thru the slot) you will see that the insides of it are the exact same as the 20 amp version. We are not talking residential stuff here, but commercial or industrial. Find a Leviton 15 amp commercial grade on the shelf at Home Depot and look inside that wide slot. Then look at the 20 amp version. Same device, different plastic on the face of it.

1732165224539.jpeg


Here is a Hubbell, outside is straight slot neutral 15 amp face, inside is 20 amp T slot innards. And Yes, I pieced the pic together years ago from a image on a PDF document and that is the reason for the lines, but it was one image to begin with, no hanky panky here.

Charles
 
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I have several tools that require a 20 amp receptacle along with my 2 air compressors. Yes the inside are similar but the metal contacts on a 20 amp receptacle are thicker than a 15 amp. All the receptacles in my workshop/barns are 20 amp receptacles along with all my outside ones on my house including the GFCI ones
 
Who in the world has anything with a 20 amp 5-20P plug on it?
Well, I do, for one.
I have several tools that require a 20 amp receptacle along with my 2 air compressors.
And, apparently, I'm not alone.
The 20 amp outlet means nothing. If you break open an identical quality level of a 15 amp (or even just peer thru the slot) you will see that the insides of it are the exact same as the 20 amp version.
Whatever the receptacle internals, the "T" slot on the receptacle face is needed to allow direct plug-in of the of the 5-20P on those devices.

Yes, a 5-20P>5-15R adaptor can be used, but it's nice to not have to do that (with risk of attendant circuit overload). Presumably when the receptacle is a 5-20R, the wiring and circuit protection behind that is assuredly rated for the full potential 20A load per NEC/NFPA.

NEC/NFPA requires 15A maximum circuit protection and 14AWG minimum wiring for a dedicated (single duplex) 15A receptacle circuit, 20A maximum circuit protection and 12AWG minimum wiring for a dedicated (single duplex) 20A receptacle circuit (yes, NEC/NFPA allows, but does not require, 20A circuit protection w/12AWG minimum wiring for circuits having multiple and only 15A receptacles; if wired with 12AWG those circuits must have 15A maximum circuit protection).
 
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