New Build Energy Questions

[Nelo]

We have an E19 and the Houghton 9.5 AC with an RV soft start. I run it just fine off a Renogy 2000 inverter connected to 860 amp hours of LifePo4 battery system. I can get 24 hours of cooling from battery’s but that will very depending on the outside temperature.
Also, we have the standard refrigerator and it works perfectly, I use a combination of shore power, DC when driving and propane when needed.

I think the 13.5 AC will draw a little more current and maybe a 3k inverter is appropriate but you need to determine your total load and go from there. I try to size for 75% load and I don’t run my microwave or other high current loads at the same time.
Energy management is importent and I had to realize that I’m driving around the country with a compact camper and not my house, so it’s a compromise on creature comforts. I see these big frigen rigs in the campgrounds and I am so happy we have our Escape 19 that allows us to go where they can never go and with so much less hassle.
Nelo
“Absolutely insist on enjoying life”

 

[jjdeluca]

Nelo -
Wow - 24 hours of cooling is great. We have a similar set up; Houghton 9.5k AC w/ RV soft start but I installed the 3000 watt Renogy inverter (probably overkill), 400 amp hrs LifePo4 battery bank and 500 watts of solar on roof with 120watt solar "suitcase". We also have the DC fridge.
Haven't really had a chance to test the AC out in hot weather yet but I was hoping to get 5-6 hrs of cooling off of the batteries. I realize you've got more than twice the battery storage, but you results are encouraging!
(YMMV of course)

 

[Nelo]

24 hours of air conditioning is all dependent on several factors.
First, is what the outside temperature is and then what you are trying to cool the inside of the trailer too. I have not had the really hot outside temps yet, 87 has been about the highest and the nights much cooler, so the night the requirements should be less If I keep the inside around 78-80 it is not cold but more comfortable. I find that once the inside reaches the set temperature the compressor will start cycling and running around 60-70% of the time. When the compressor is running the current (amps) are about 65 amps, when the compressor is off and only the fan is running it is drawing about 7 amps.
I’m still experimenting and finalizing my total current draw and what is being supplemented by the 240 watts of solar panels of which the best I have seen is around 195 watts. I should have included the solar in my last post!!
So I hope to get a little more but it may turn out to be a little less.
I’m just happy to be able to sleep at night inside a cooler climate than what it would be without shore power and air conditioning.

 

[Nelo]

I have a correction to my post about getting 24 hours of cooling from battery’s with about 80 amps from solar.
I did the test again I was getting around 18 hours of cooling with the door closed the whole time. I don’t know why I screwed up my first test duration numbers so bad!
Anyway, we will be cool all night long!

 

[GregWCIL]

If you are going to the trouble of a complete lithium install I would consider ordering the camper with no roof-top AC. Then install a mini split at much lower cost and much lower energy usage. Several on here have done it including me. Mine is a custom install not suitable for most but others on here have done it quite simply by mounting the condenser on the rear bumper and air handler in the rear overhead cabinet.
By clearing my roof I was able to install 3 - 400 watt high efficiency panels. I have a 400 ah battery and a Victron 3000 watt inverter. I can run the electric fridge, microwave and AC as much as I want. (Actually use it in heat pump mode more often.)
We’ve stayed comfortable even at Canyonlands NP when it was 104 outside. And in Yosemite where it was cool at night and much shade on the REC panels.
Do realize a project you are proposing may take weeks or more to complete to do it nicely.

 

[dstreight]

^ Greg, do you have a thread link to your mini-split information and install?