New Owner Comments and Questions

[Greatboatz3]

Hello all, I haven't been on the forum recently, we have been enjoying using and learning about our new E21C. Let me start off by thanking the many many members that have helped this past year in planning and understanding our new trailer. I know it was the right choice and I'm thankful for all of the advice in choosing the options.
Amongst the many options we have am very happy I got the 2 solar panels, all of the electronic options, the power tongue jack, the manual awing and the E2 hitch. We picked up in Sumas and trailered 4000 miles back NC. We had some pleasant surprises. The first being the tailgate on my older Silverado cleared the power jack.
One unfortunate surprise was I could immediately see that the hitch ball was way too low. I called ETI and discussed the receiver height I had provided. I took the measurement when the pickup was unloaded. traveling to Sumas we were pretty well loaded up with everything for the trailer, pots and pans etc., plus a small Honda generator. Fortunately a nearby NAPA garage that had the tools and torque wrench needed to raise the ball 1 hole on the shank. Second 2 surprises: Despite the many negatives about the ETI coupler, using hitch lube on the ball and coupler I had no problem hitching up. The other surprise, I had absolutely no sway on the journey home; at times travelling pretty quickly on some very long and curvy downhill runs.
1st Question: During my discussion with Dustin he stated the measurement to the belly band should be within 1" front and rear to be level. I am currently
1 1/2" low in the front, should I have the hitch head raised to the next hole, about 1 1/4" ? I've been hesitant as I have no sway.
Question #2: I ordered bug screens for the refrigerator and the furnace but I can't seem the find the correct screen for the Dometic DFSAD12131 furnace. The one I ordered doesn't fit. If I do a google search using the model number I get every bug screen ever made for every appliance. Could someone please tell me what I need to order? Thanks.

Again thanks to all, we couldn't be happier. Now I'm going to finish the install of by Furrion RV receiver, JBL speakers and Blueray DVD player.

 

[rubicon327]

I ordered bug screens for the refrigerator and the furnace but I can't seem the find the correct screen for the Dometic DFSAD12131 furnace. The one I ordered doesn't fit. If I do a google search using the model number I get every bug screen ever made for every appliance. Could someone please tell me what I need to order? Thanks.

I do not have this furnace but this may help
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9/bug-screens-20394-2.html#post380892

How to Install RV Bug Screens on Vents - 2 Ways | Full Time RV Living in an Escape Travel Trailer - YouTube

She used this screen for the newer Atwood AFSAD / Dometic DFSAD furnace:
Amazon.com: Camco 42144 Flying Insect Screen - FUR 500,3.6" Diameter X 1.3 : Automotive

 

[Brian B-P]

The other surprise, I had absolutely no sway on the journey home; at times travelling pretty quickly on some very long and curvy downhill runs.
1st Question: During my discussion with Dustin he stated the measurement to the belly band should be within 1" front and rear to be level. I am currently
1 1/2" low in the front, should I have the hitch head raised to the next hole, about 1 1/4" ? I've been hesitant as I have no sway.

If the E2 weight-distribution system is correctly adjusted (which is determined by the tug's front axle load), and the trailer is still nose-low like that, then yes - I suggest raising the ball that one step and re-adjusting the WD system (which needs re-adjustment with any ball height change).

"No sway" really means "no sway yet", but you have not encountered every situation on the road.

 

[Ron in BC]

I bought an "eazlift" WDH for my 21. The stinger was 2" solid stock which I thought was ridiculous overkill and heavy as sin. So I made a new one out of square tube and kept the same hole increments as the original, 1 1/2".

Right away I could tell it was a little nose down but I used it for 2 seasons. For that last trip of this season I upped the ball mount one hole. The trailer is now dead level. The WDH adjustment hardly changed.

There was absolutely no effect on towing but it looks better to the eye. I've had the trailer loaded every which way and never had any sway with either of the Escapes.

Ron

Ron

 

[DWM3]

I'm guessing that you have the high-lift axel on your 21C. When we received ours we had Escape install the E2 hitch. The trailer was also nose down, and required raising the ball by two holes in order to get it level. Seems that the hitch installer was not trained to raise the ball height if the trailer has the high-lift axel.

I think the main issue with a trailer that is not level is proper weighting of the two axels. Dexter says the trailer must ride level so there is not uneven weighting. Before I adjusted the ball upward I didn't have any sway either, so I don't think this influences sway - but who knows and I don't want to be the one to find out.

I should add that there was no need to adjust the system for weight distribution. It remained the same for ours before and after the ball height increase. But you should check anyway just to be sure. The adjustment is a bit tricky, and you want to maintain the bars so they have maximum contact with the brackets on the trailer in order to have the best antisway performance. If it requires more forward weight shift it will probably need one or more additional washers, and not an adjustment of the bracket height.

 

[Greatboatz3]

Don, Thank you for your response. I believed that is the way to go, I wasn't certain. May I ask if you did the adjustment yourself. The reason I ask is because I attempted it myself at Sumas. I had the the socket (1 1/16 I believe) and a box wrench( again 1 1/8 I think is required) and an 18" long 1/2 drive breaker bar. I was able to back off the nylock nuts about 1/8" but no more. I could shake the 2 bolts side to side 1/8" but using all of my strength I could not loosen the nuts any further. I even tried chocking all 4 wheels on my truck as it was shaking and bouncing all over the place due to the force I applied.
When I spoke with Dustin and Dave at ETI I was told me I had to loosen the the angle set bolt I believe it's called before attempting to loosen the head bolts which I did. On following call Dave told me about the NAPA store in Sumas. I went there and said "I need Help". The mechanic tried using a pneumatic impact wrench to remove the nuts without success. He then brought out a 2 1/2footlong breaker bar and with me holding the box wrench tight to the hitch head to keep it from slipping and using all his strength was able to remove the nuts and make the adjustment and then retorque the bolts to the 250 ft lbs I believe is required if memory servers me right. On a subsequent call to Dustin I told him I thought the bolts were stretched making them difficult to remove and also asked about the extra spacers that come with the hit as only 5 were used and the kit includes either 7 or 9 . I could see I was getting no where with Dustin so I said I will order a new kit from Fastway that includes new nuts bolts and spacers for $40. I haven't done that yet but will do so ASAP and look for a shop to remove the bolts.
Thanks again for your reply
Jim

 

[DWM3]

Yes, I did the adjustment myself. I used a cordless impact gun plus an open-end wrench to get the bolts off and didn't have any trouble. Jammed the open-end wrench against the body of the hitch to keep it stable. I don't think loosening the angle set bolt is necessary. I put them back on with a 250 lb. torque wrench I have.

If those bolts are stretched, and given the trouble you had removing them, I'm guessing that Escape used a pneumatic impact gun set way too high to put them on. Also, Escape didn't include any additional washers with mine either. I called Fastway and the tech guy said I can just go to the hardware store and buy a comparably sized washer. But in your case I think you are right to just buy a new set of everything from Fastway. Stretched bolts are prone to failure.