Newbie Camping Gear List

[rbryan4]

I've always wondered why you need to lube your hitch. I know it's probably obvious, but can someone explain? I've pulled trailers for years and never done this. What was I risking?

Steel against steel will wear over time. The White Grease is supposed to help reduce wear. I know some people who use it and some who never have. This is one of those "depends on who you ask" questions. I'd say as long as you use a lubricant designed for the ball, it should help reduce wear. The ball cover (especially with a fixed ball) makes more sense to me. Exposed to the rain, a hitch ball will rust wherever the plating has been worn away. We always used to just pull it from the receiver and store it in the vehicle. No rust.

 

[rbryan4]

Robert what provisions are you planning to use to change a tire on the trailer? I just recently purchased the Trailer Aid. Trust me, the jack Ford supplies with the truck SUCKS. I'll use it if necessary on my truck, but I'm not going to use it on the trailer. I hope this was $41 I spent on an item, but never use!

I have a small 2 ton bottle jack with a v block. It would only need to raise the axle a couple of inches.

 

[Rossue2]

Might be there already hidden in the coffee klatch, however: You definitely need a Torque Wrench. Those wheel lugs are going to be loose after 500 miles or less. I forgot one but luckily I asked a 5th wheeler and he pulls out a nice Husky from Home Depot. Got one back at home. Made in USA and has a nice long handle. $75.

 

[Ron in BC]

That's what irked me, the first time I went into a Tim Horton's.
Apparently, they don't trust their customers to add sugar and cream according to preference.

I like it that way, no guilt about extra sugar and cream if I accidentally order "double double"

Donna, that looks a handy item for people who would rather not use a jack. It looks like it has an adequate amount of lift. And maybe from time to time in a difficult location it could be used for leveling.

Ron

 

[LarryandLiz]

???? What do my fellow Escapers think of buying a polisher ?
Makita 9227C 7" Electronic Polisher Sander | eBay

We picked up our 17b last year in August - had it out on a 11 day shakedown cruise and tucked it away for the winter (stored for us at Escape Industries).

I'm leaning towards getting the Makita for waxing the trailer. The owner's manual says to wax twice a year. Here in February as we plan for the upcoming camping season getting set up with the correct equipment seems like the thing to do.

I was at Lordco talking to the guy behind the counter and heard about buying three more buffer disks and learned that there is a whole world out there full of opinions about polishing fiberglass.

Is going all in with Makita and all the extras overkill?

 

[Rossue2]

Saw a simple approach to buffing at the car wash last week. They were using an AC buffer attached to an extension cord and then using shop towels over the disk rather than constantly changing out the pads.

 

[Ron in BC]

???? What do my fellow Escapers think of buying a polisher ?

Is going all in with Makita and all the extras overkill?

I used mine on my boat hull because it was a huge unbroken expanse of fiberglass. Great for that situation. It does great job and all the commercial people who maintain boats use them.

Topsides I did by hand, too many "things" in the way. I've never used in on the trailer for the same reason. By the time you do all the "around windows and other projections stuff" by hand I'm not sure how much time savings there would be. It would work but there would still be a requirement for hand work.

Ron

 

[rbryan4]

Might be there already hidden in the coffee klatch, however: You definitely need a Torque Wrench. Those wheel lugs are going to be loose after 500 miles or less. I forgot one but luckily I asked a 5th wheeler and he pulls out a nice Husky from Home Depot. Got one back at home. Made in USA and has a nice long handle. $75.

Many 'must have' items aren't on the list because I already have them. Like many Escape owners, I have a pretty extensive set of tools in the garage, and a couple "road kits" with various tools for the vehicles. I have a torque wrench for example that was made in 1968 and it still works perfectly.

 

[rbryan4]

???? What do my fellow Escapers think of buying a polisher ?
Makita 9227C 7" Electronic Polisher Sander | eBay

We picked up our 17b last year in August - had it out on a 11 day shakedown cruise and tucked it away for the winter (stored for us at Escape Industries).

I'm leaning towards getting the Makita for waxing the trailer. The owner's manual says to wax twice a year. Here in February as we plan for the upcoming camping season getting set up with the correct equipment seems like the thing to do.

I was at Lordco talking to the guy behind the counter and heard about buying three more buffer disks and learned that there is a whole world out there full of opinions about polishing fiberglass.

Is going all in with Makita and all the extras overkill?

Larry, I picked up a Porter Cable 7424XP Dual-Action Polisher several years ago and it is hands-down the best polisher I've used. I've used it to detail my cars and it's impossible to burn the clearcoat when buffing or waxing, although it has a huge amount of power. Makes novice polishers like me look like a pro. The ones that detail shops use can burn the finish if you don't know how to use them.

You will save a TON of time waxing/polishing your trailer with one of these.

PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher - Power Polishing Tools - Amazon.com

 

[Rossue2]

Many 'must have' items aren't on the list because I already have them. Like many Escape owners, I have a pretty extensive set of tools in the garage, and a couple "road kits" with various tools for the vehicles. I have a torque wrench for example that was made in 1968 and it still works perfectly.

Right-like the bottle jack? I have a lot of tools too, just thought it would be useful reminder as I had forgotten to get one. Sometimes when thinking of toothbrush holders, etc. one forgets some really important item- like one to keep a wheel from falling off

 

[Jim Bennett]

Lube with a traditional ball hitch is very helpful. It reduces wear, which you may not see over a short period of time, but definitely will over the long haul. It also eliminates some noises otherwise heard. It is recommended by the hitch and trailer manufacturers, and is super easy to do, there is no reason not to do it.

 

[gbaglo]

There is one reason not to do it, at least in my case.
I think about it a lot, but I still pick up the WDH by the ball and the shank, getting grease all over me.

 

[padlin]

???? What do my fellow Escapers think of buying a polisher ?
Makita 9227C 7" Electronic Polisher Sander | eBay


Is going all in with Makita and all the extras overkill?

No, mine is overkill. http://www.amazon.com/Flex-XC3401VRG-Orbital-Action-Polisher/dp/B001DB0NVG

Used to do auto body work in a previous life, finally burned up my old rotary one from that time period and went for the dual action (orbital). I use them a lot. I have an older model of the PC, it's just personal preference but I like the handling on a longer bodied unit.

Unless I'm mistaken, the Makita is a rotary, unless you know what you are doing you might want to look for an orbital. You can burn the finish if you catch an edge. Keep it as light as you can too.

 

[Jim Bennett]

There is one reason not to do it, at least in my case.
I think about it a lot, but I still pick up the WDH by the ball and the shank, getting grease all over me.

Most people would learn after doing that once.....just sayin'.

But, people are always free to do as they wish, and aren't bound to go my manufacturer guidelines.

 

[Brian B-P]

I have a small 2 ton bottle jack with a v block. It would only need to raise the axle a couple of inches.

That's fine for the rear axle of the truck, or even an axle of an Escape 5.0TA, but for the front of the truck or for the Torflex-suspended trailers, you're lifting the frame and it will likely take more than a couple of inches. Fortunately, hydraulic bottle jacks have lots of travel... but it might need to sit on a block to start high enough. A 2-ton bottle jack might only be 12" tall extended.

 

[Brian B-P]

Trust me, the jack Ford supplies with the truck SUCKS. I'll use it if necessary on my truck, but I'm not going to use it on the trailer.

What type is this (vertical screw, scissors...), and what's wrong with it? Do you know if the 2015 has the same jack?

 

[Brian B-P]

The ball cover (especially with a fixed ball) makes more sense to me. Exposed to the rain, a hitch ball will rust wherever the plating has been worn away. We always used to just pull it from the receiver and store it in the vehicle. No rust.

I agree - our ball mount is taken out between towing trips, and a simple cover goes on the ball for short stops during the trip if the trailer is unhitched... more to avoid the grease than to protect from rain. Ideally, for me a ball cover should be bright orange to reduce accidental shin contact.

 

[rbryan4]

That's fine for the rear axle of the truck, or even an axle of an Escape 5.0TA, but for the front of the truck or for the Torflex-suspended trailers, you're lifting the frame and it will likely take more than a couple of inches. Fortunately, hydraulic bottle jacks have lots of travel... but it might need to sit on a block to start high enough. A 2-ton bottle jack might only be 12" tall extended.

It's just for the trailer. An old one, but it will work well for the 19's axle height. I always put a wider block under them anyway, not just for height but stability.

What type is this (vertical screw, scissors...), and what's wrong with it? Do you know if the 2015 has the same jack?

The 2015 comes with a scissor jack, and I've never had a problem with them, although it does take some effort to turn under load. At home though I use a hydraulic floor jack. Just easier.

 

[Brian B-P]

It's just for the trailer. An old one, but it will work well for the 19's axle height. I always put a wider block under them anyway, not just for height but stability.

Sounds like a plan, but...
My only concern is the references to the axle: with a Torflex - as with any other independent suspension - you lift the frame, not the axle. That means the required lift difference is the whole droop travel of the suspension, plus tire sidewall compression.

The 2015 comes with a scissor jack, and I've never had a problem with them. At home though I use a hydraulic floor jack. Just easier.

Same here: every car I've owned has had a scissors jack, and they all work fine when used properly... but I usually use a floor jack at home. I never even tried the screw jack that came with our Chevy pickup; it needed lots of work, but I just didn't have to do a roadside jacking.

 

[LeonW]

There is one reason not to do it, at least in my case.
I think about it a lot, but I still pick up the WDH by the ball and the shank, getting grease all over me.

When I asked the RV Tech guy about lubing the hitch he was noncommittal. But said that if I decide to lube the hitch I should be sure to use white lithium grease. I asked him why, and he explained that white lithium grease is easier to get out of your pants after you get the grease on them.

I lubed the ball and the bars (where they rotated) on my weight distribution hitch. I doubt it saved much wear and tear, but it did make it quieter when going around corners.