OMG another GFCI thread

[ghosthunter]

Yep

Just when I was relishing the fact that all my projects were caught up my wife reminded me of the out side GFCI plug not working. An easy fix I said. That’s when fate raised its ugly head.

I have a 2013 15 B
I have two GGCI outlets. One outside( not working) one inside ( working)
I am plugged into shore power and everything else is working.

I have no power to outside outlet.

I have reset all breakers several times.
I have turned all switches and off.
I have reset inside GFCI several times.
All lights work
Ac works
Pumps work
Refer works
I have plugged a power too in every other outlet all work.

I looked for hidden breakers but found none.


Any ideas?


I have to go run some errands, be back this evening.

Thanks for any help.

 

[DanandDaphne]

Did you pull the outlet and test the power at the wires or just plug something in? If you did I don't have any ideas but if you just tested by plugging something in I would suggest pulling the receptacle and testing to see if you do have power to the receptacle and its a failed receptacle.

 

[JohnK-ESC]

Some GFCI problems can be traced to a burned out water heater electric element. Even with only one lead still connected on a burned out water hear element, doesn't matter which lead, a GFCI can detect it and read it as a ground fault. I learned this lesson the hard way.

John

 

[Ooshkaboo]

Yep

Just when I was relishing the fact that all my projects were caught up my wife reminded me of the out side GFCI plug not working. An easy fix I said. That’s when fate raised its ugly head.

I have a 2013 15 B
I have two GGCI outlets. One outside( not working) one inside ( working)
I am plugged into shore power and everything else is working.

I have no power to outside outlet.

I have reset all breakers several times.
I have turned all switches and off.
I have reset inside GFCI several times.
All lights work
Ac works
Pumps work
Refer works
I have plugged a power too in every other outlet all work.

I looked for hidden breakers but found none.


Any ideas?


I have to go run some errands, be back this evening.

Thanks for any help.

It’s 11years old, I’d begin the troubleshooting process by putting a new one in its place.

 

[Ron in BC]

Basically the GFCI is first inline. Other outlets are downstream.

Your trouble shooting has covered most possibilities.

I'd remove the black wire from the GFCI and test for power, which you may have already done. If no power I'd leave the meter or a test light to it and have someone watch it like a hawk while you manipulate and wiggle and jiggle (high level tech term) every inch of the supply wire that you can reach.

This is single strand wire and there's always a possibility that fatigue could have caused an internal break.

The other way of testing is to get both ends of the wires exposed and unattached and then use a meter to test for continuity.

Good luck,

Ron

 

[HABBERDABBER]

Maybe it's kaput!

I've read that GFI's can often go bad, and "commercial grade" ones (more expensive) are best to replace with. Replacing with a known good one may speed your troubleshooting process.

 

[ghosthunter]

Did you pull the outlet and test the power at the wires or just plug something in? If you did I don't have any ideas but if you just tested by plugging something in I would suggest pulling the receptacle and testing to see if you do have power to the receptacle and its a failed receptacle.

Pulled outlet thinking it was bad, no power to it.
Wired a new outlet to it no joy.
Wired a standard outlet to it no joy.

 

[ghosthunter]

I've read that GFI's can often go bad, and "commercial grade" ones (more expensive) are best to replace with. Replacing with a known good one may speed your troubleshooting process.

Confident there is no power to the box.

 

[ghosthunter]

My next idea is to trace back. It looks like it’s going around the passenger bench seat to the outlet near the floor. ( which is working)

I guess it could have a loose connection at that outlet if it’s Daisy changed through there.
Than it continues on around the bench into the wall under rear window to the drivers side where EMS is located.

 

[ghosthunter]

Another idea is to just run a new wire from the working outlet which is about three feet away.

Thinking about that option.

 

[JohnK-ESC]

Yes ghosthunter running a new wire is a thought. I’m not meaning to sound like a broken record, but tell me, have you checked your water heater electric element? It’s easier than running a parallel wire.

John

 

[Ron in BC]

My next idea is to trace back. It looks like it’s going around the passenger bench seat to the outlet near the floor. ( which is working)

I think that you might be going in the wrong direction. Power goes to a GFCI first and then on to other outlets, providing them with the same protection.

The only way that you could have power at an outlet on a GFCI protected circuit is if it's installed ahead of the GFCI, which would be unusual.

Ron

 

[ghosthunter]

I think that you might be going in the wrong direction. Power goes to a GFCI first and then on to other outlets, providing them with the same protection.

The only way that you could have power at an outlet on a GFCI protected circuit is if it's installed ahead of the GFCI, which would be unusual.

Ron

I agree based on my reading.

But I can clearly see the wire come from EMS and go into a working outlet box then come out and go to the ground fault.

I have no idea if this is factory or not since I am 3 rd owner. So maybe someone re wired it.

 

[ghosthunter]

Yes ghosthunter running a new wire is a thought. I’m not meaning to sound like a broken record, but tell me, have you checked your water heater electric element? It’s easier than running a parallel wire.

John

I have not checked element because I have never used electric hot water always use gas.
I guess I could switch to electric and see if I get hot water?

 

[ghosthunter]

Another wrinkle.

Turned off all the breakers, nothing working, checking connections on working out let and fell a tingle. What?

Put my tester on wires and got audible alert there was power.
Plug an engraver tool into outlet no go.

???

Plug my surge protector circuit checker into my garage and get an open ground light.
Single yellow.

Not sure what’s going on? Can there be residual power?

 

[Chamberman]

Another wrinkle.

Turned off all the breakers, nothing working, checking connections on working out let and fell a tingle. What?

Put my tester on wires and got audible alert there was power.
Plug an engraver tool into outlet no go.

???

Plug my surge protector circuit checker into my garage and get an open ground light.
Single yellow.

Not sure what’s going on? Can there be residual power?

In your prior post you mentioned the wire for this GFCI outlet comes from the EMS (Progressive EMS?). If that's the case then this outlet is not wired correctly, all power to outlets should come from the breaker panel.

 

[Ooshkaboo]

Another wrinkle.

Turned off all the breakers, nothing working, checking connections on working out let and fell a tingle. What?

Put my tester on wires and got audible alert there was power.
Plug an engraver tool into outlet no go.

???

Plug my surge protector circuit checker into my garage and get an open ground light.
Single yellow.

Not sure what’s going on? Can there be residual power?

I just this week had this same problem with a residential outlet, black wire testing hot but plugging in a small fan, and no power to the fan. I replaced the outlet and same results.
By tracing the wires back I found the white wire from the outlet that was connecting with a few other wires had come loose-at the wire nut connector. Double check all spots where the white wire has any kind of connection necessary.

 

[ghosthunter]

In your prior post you mentioned the wire for this GFCI outlet comes from the EMS (Progressive EMS?). If that's the case then this outlet is not wired correctly, all power to outlets should come from the breaker panel.

My bad it is coming from the breaker side.

 

[ghosthunter]

I just this week had this same problem with a residential outlet, black wire testing hot but plugging in a small fan, and no power to the fan. I replaced the outlet and same results.
By tracing the wires back I found the white wire from the outlet that was connecting with a few other wires had come loose-at the wire nut connector. Double check all spots where the white wire has any kind of connection necessary.

It doesn’t seem like it should be down stream from an outlet at the end of the line. But that’s where it is. I am guessing Escape in 2013 was just looking for the shortest route.

Now that I am fresh this am , I am going to concentrate on the working outlet and why there isn’t power to GF. That’s a puzzlement for me. Got to be a loose connection.

 

[Jim Bennett]

I know it's been mentioned on how the cables are run, but in both my Escapes the outside GFI was fed directly from the panel, and from there a protected cable was run to the kitchen plug. Nothing else was on that circuit. If you are not getting 120V at the outside plug then there must be an issue between that and the panel. Hard to believe but the cable is damaged but a slight possibility. The only other option is at the panel which could be the hot, neutral or ground is not bonded properly or there is a fault with the breaker. Breakers should last a long time, but do fail occasionally.