Por-15

[Mike Lewis]

I have started painting my trailer frame with POR-15 rust killing paint. My procedure may be off so I need some advice here:

- Prep -- I didn't buy the three-item POR-15 kit because I didn't know about it; I just bought a couple of quarts of the paint from Amazon. Then I learned about the "prep". Can a generic spray degreaser substitute for the POR-15 item? I have been scraping my frame with a wire brush then rubbing it with steel wool, and finally washing it with mineral spirits before painting. Is this adequate prep?

- Cover paint for UV protection -- what are people using for this? Will a Rustoleum semi-gloss black spray do? The POR-15 items are hard to find around here, and I'd rather substitute something else if I can.

- Clean up -- Mineral spirits has no effect on this paint. POR-15 has its own solvent. Is there a more generic substitute for it that I can clean brushes with?

Thanks.

 

[Brian B-P]

- Clean up -- Mineral spirits has no effect on this paint. POR-15 has its own solvent. Is there a more generic substitute for it that I can clean brushes with?

The Material Safety Data Sheet for the POR-15 solvent says that it is light aromatic naphtha. My guess is that won't be easy to find for a consumer, either.

 

[rbryan4]

The Material Safety Data Sheet for the POR-15 solvent says that it is light aromatic naphtha. My guess is that won't be easy to find for a consumer, either.

Naphtha is available in just about every paint store I've ever seen ‐ at least in the US. But according to the FAQ on the POR-15 manufacturer's website, they say to just use lacquer thinner for cleanup.

 

[Donna D.]

Cheap foam rollers and brushes work fine. POR-15 is self-leveling. I wouldn't waste my time cleaning brushes. Get everything ready and put it on all at once. If you need to do it a second time, the second coat can be applied in 2-72 hours, depending on ambient temperature and humidity.

I can promise you, if you get it on your skin or in your hair it's there for WEEKS. Forget about getting it out of clothing and anything else it touches where you don't want it.

 

[Viajante]

Rustoleum is ok as a topcoat. It should be applied when por-15 is still slightly tacky. If you wait until por-15 has dried completely you are supposed to scuff it with 220 sandpaper. Some por-15 colors apparently have uv inhibitors, silver being one. But not black.

 

[Mike Lewis]

Yeah, I haven't read the FAQ yet; saw it but forgot about it. But I wanted to get some input from folks that have used POR-15 anyway.

 

[Viajante]

Lacquer thinner works as a solvent for por15. Coleman fuel is naptha plus a few additives.

 

[Donna D.]

Here's a pic of Larry getting ready to paint the inside roof of his 1955 Chev with POR-15. Notice the Tyvek suit. I strongly suggest one if you're laying on your back painting the frame on the underside of the trailer. The suits are cheap. <$8 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-TY122...tic-Coverall/dp/B01JOWAOEG?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

 

[StarvingHyena]

Hi Mike, I used POR-15 on a teardrop trailer chassis that I built in 2003. Long ago enough that I forget all the details but as the years rolled by, and the paint dulled due to UV and getting sand blasted from my truck tires, I wished that I had applied a clear coat and kept that surface up. Now its starting to show its age …. but it hasn't been touched for 16 years. You are on the right track!

Tom

 

[Brian B-P]

Naphtha is available in just about every paint store I've ever seen ‐ at least in the US.

Good to know. It's not in paint sections of hardware stores here that I have noticed, but it may be here too, or just labeled differently.

But according to the FAQ on the POR-15 manufacturer's website, they say to just use lacquer thinner for cleanup.

True, and the request was just for brush cleaning... but it did specifically refer to the POR-15 solvent, which is used for thinning, and that's apparently not lacquer thinner.

 

[padlin]

I tried Rustoleum in a couple spots over the POR-15, it dulled out compared to the original finish. Ended up getting a QT of the Top Coat.

FWIW, I could not get more then 2 uses out of the small cans of the POR-15 rust preventative. After closing the can the 1st night I had to pretty much tear the lid off the next day, rendering the lid useless after that. I went with the 6 pack of little cans after the fist one. Might work if you are very careful in cleaning the lid and can lip before closing. I also found the brushes only one use, buy the cheap ones.

I did not need a Tyvek suit, I did however toss out the T shirt when the job was done. Disposable gloves are a must, the stuff works like tar.

I did not work with my face under where I was working!

 

[elongest]

As you know Por 15 is a three step process. The first step is cleaning and degreasing. The second step is the metal treatment which is one of the most important steps. This step kills the rust and preps the metal. Other products that do this step is Ospho , Prep and Etch or phosphoric acid. Then you use the Por 15. I then used Por 15 top coat paint on the exposed tongue and bumper of my trailer.
Just my opinion. If you go with POR 15, go with the complete system. You will get a hard surface shiny paint. I you go with Rustoleum top coat just use it with the Rustoleum heavy rust primer which is a lot cheaper. I would still use an acid treatment. The Rustoleum is a softer paint and not hold the shine as long as the POR 15. Good advice on the paint suit if you get POR 15 on your skin it going to be there for quite a while.
Eddie

 

[Tford]

Another way to work out of the can for a few days is to just nail punch a couple of hole on either side of the lid (one to pour, one to let in air) and pour into tupperware or glass jars then quick wipe the top holes clean and slap a piece of duct tape over the hole. Keeps air out enough for a few days repetition. But everyone is right, try to get it ALL done in one shot, cover yourself and everything under it (it is runnier than you think it is) and when your brush over a hole, the squeegee effect makes a drip every time. Well ventilated area!!!

 

[grump]

If you're going to use the product in a few days, use a single layer of a sandwich baggy between the lid and can, it will keep the lid from "welding" itself to the can.

 

[Viajante]

If you're going to use the product in a few days, use a single layer of a sandwich baggy between the lid and can, it will keep the lid from "welding" itself to the can.

Yes, this works. I place some plastic wrap over the top of the open can then put the lid on.

I like the idea of punching a hole in the lid to pour the paint, too.

 

[gbaglo]

How do you stir the paint through a hole in the lid? Spray cans have a ball bearing or such inside.

 

[Lanark Camper]

I think its a great idea to coat the outside of the frame to prevent rust. Por is an excellent choice.

What about the inside of the frame ? It's probably bare metal, never been painted !
I'm not familiar enough with Escape frames to know if they can get any water, salt, mouse nests etc in them.

I intend to spray the inside of the box frame members on my trailer with rust proofing product, probably will use Krown. I've been very pleased with it on my trucks and cars over the years. I live in a very high salt use area.

Many years ago I welded a new frame for my 1968 Landrover from 1/8"thick, 4'x8' steel plates. The frame members were all welded closed and I added a pint of gear oil into each through a threaded hole. The outside was coated with an epoxy paint garage floor paint after sand blasting. It's still rust free and on the road as far as I know.

After purchase I removed the front storage box and propane support on my new 17B trailer after picking it up. I treated the rust under them and coated the frame with a rubberized rocker guard product. I like the look. I used the same rubberized paint to seal the bare electrical terminals on the trailers tanks. I was going to use liquid tape but once I started with the rubber paint I decided to try it.

Bob

 

[Patandlinda]

I think its a great idea to coat the outside of the frame to prevent rust. Por is an excellent choice.

What about the inside of the frame ? It's probably bare metal, never been painted !
I'm not familiar enough with Escape frames to know if they can get any water, salt, mouse nests etc in them.

I intend to spray the inside of the box frame members on my trailer with rust proofing product, probably will use Krown. I've been very pleased with it on my trucks and cars over the years. I live in a very high salt use area.

Many years ago I welded a new frame for my 1968 Landrover from 1/8"thick, 4'x8' steel plates. The frame members were all welded closed and I added a pint of gear oil into each through a threaded hole. The outside was coated with an epoxy paint garage floor paint after sand blasting. It's still rust free and on the road as far as I know.

After purchase I removed the front storage box and propane support on my new 17B trailer after picking it up. I treated the rust under them and coated the frame with a rubberized rocker guard product. I like the look. I used the same rubberized paint to seal the bare electrical terminals on the trailers tanks. I was going to use liquid tape but once I started with the rubber paint I decided to try it.

Bob

Nice job ! Pat

 

[Brian B-P]

What about the inside of the frame ? It's probably bare metal, never been painted !
I'm not familiar enough with Escape frames to know if they can get any water, salt, mouse nests etc in them.

I intend to spray the inside of the box frame members on my trailer with rust proofing product

Yes, there are typically open ends on the main frame tubes, although any detail of any model can change at any time. Not all of them will be practical to access for treatment; for instance, the rear tubes are sealed at the bumper connection but usually open at the front where they face the step in the fiberglass body and so are not readily accessible.

 

[rubicon327]

Is POR-15 worth all the hassle? I have used this water based industrial rust converter primer with success. Amazing stuff.
Corroseal Rust Converter | Metal Primer | Rust Paint