portable solar panel with no controller

Hmmm, are you sure about that? Two thoughts just for consideration ....
  1. All other things being equal, partial shading seems to have a much greater effect on panel current-output than panel voltage-output (see this article)
  2. All other things being equal, it seems that in a parallel-wired array a partially shaded panel does contribute to the current the string presents to the controller, albeit less current than the unshaded panels, with a net positive power result (source of diagrams here)
View attachment 1950012
Yes all parallel panels will contribute power but sub optimally. The shaded panels will drag down the optimal power.

Here’s how Grok explains it :-

————-

### Understanding Mismatch in Parallel Solar Panels with a Single MPPT

You're spot on that in a parallel connection—like your 190W rooftop and 200W mobile panels wired together into the Victron 100/30—the MPPT controller does see the panels as a single combined array. Their currents add up at the shared voltage, so under ideal conditions (both in full sun, same angle), you'd get roughly 390W total input, with the controller outputting ~25-30A to your batteries depending on voltage and efficiency.

But the "drag-down" effect from a lower-output panel (e.g., the rooftop one shaded by a tree or the mobile one flat on the ground) isn't about the MPPT ignoring the weaker panel—it's about how solar panels generate power via their I-V (current-voltage) curves. The MPPT can't perfectly optimize both panels at once because they're forced to operate at the same voltage. Let me break it down step by step.

#### 1. How a Single Panel's Power Works (Quick Refresher)
- Each panel has an "ideal" operating point called the Maximum Power Point (MPP), defined by its Vmp (voltage at max power, ~17-20V for 12V panels) and Imp (current at max power, ~10-12A for 190-200W panels).
- Power (W) = Voltage (V) × Current (A). The MPPT sweeps the voltage to find this sweet spot, extracting max watts.
- If conditions change (shade, heat, angle), the curve shifts: the panel might produce less current at its original Vmp, or its MPP voltage changes slightly.

#### 2. Parallel Connection: Shared Voltage, Added Currents
- In parallel, both panels connect with positives together and negatives together, so they must operate at the exact same voltage set by the MPPT.
- The total current is just the sum: I_total = I_rooftop + I_mobile.
- The MPPT treats this as one big panel (~390W array) and adjusts one voltage to maximize total power (V × I_total).
- The catch: It optimizes for the array's combined MPP, not each panel's individual one. If the panels' curves don't align perfectly, the chosen voltage might be a compromise.

#### 3. How the Weaker Panel "Drags Down" the Stronger One
- Imagine the rooftop panel is in full sun (optimal: 18V at 10.5A = 189W), but the mobile is partially shaded/wrong angle (now only 15V at 8A = 120W effective).
- Their I-V curves differ: The strong panel wants ~18V for max output; the weak one might "prefer" a lower voltage (e.g., 16V) where it still pulls decent current, but at 18V, its current drops further (say, to 7A).
- The MPPT scans and picks a voltage (e.g., 17V) that maximizes total power: Strong panel at 17V might give 10A (170W, a 10% loss from ideal), weak at 17V gives 7.5A (127W, close to its max). Total: ~297W.
- Without drag: If separate, strong panel hits 189W, weak hits 120W = 309W total (4% more).
- The weak panel forces the MPPT to "settle" at a voltage slightly off the strong panel's peak, clipping some potential watts from the good panel. In bad mismatches (e.g., 50% shade on one), losses can hit 20-30% overall because the weak panel acts like a "load" at higher voltages, reducing its current disproportionately.
 
BritCanuck and Centex both provided accurate information. The OP's roof panel has Vmp of 19.35V and the portable Vmp is 17.6V. Since it is the rooftop panel that is more likely to be affected by shade (the portable can be placed in the sun), it is the panel most likely to 'drag down' the MPPT. However, the rooftop panel has the higher Vmp, so its voltage can drop as much as 1.75V before it has any affect on the portable panel output. In fact, per BritCanuck's analysis, the portable panel output will increase as the rooftop panel voltage slightly decreases since the MPPT controller setting will better match the portable panel's ideal operating point.
The reverse situation, full sun roof, shaded portable, will cause a larger loss of power. The portable's lower Vmp will always 'drag down' the MPPT whenever the portable has equal or less sunlight than the roof panel, with the amount of shading determining how much loss occurs.
As others have stated, separate MPPT controllers for each panel will provide the most power. But considering the OP's panels are close in Vmp voltages, and the higher Vmp panel is the one more likely to be shaded, wiring these panels into one controller will probably be fine.
 
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I assume this one would do the trick. It's 200w, no controller and I just add the appropriate connector/adapter to plug into my Zamp after confirming polatiry?


Sorry if this question seems simple to many, I'm a solar dummy.

make sure your existing solar panel (if any) has similar voltage specs, specifically, around 19-20V open circuit voltage, 16-17V at max output.

I'm a little confused by Renogy's page on that 200W panel, they suggest it has USB output, which would require a controller.
 
make sure your existing solar panel (if any) has similar voltage specs, specifically, around 19-20V open circuit voltage, 16-17V at max output.

I'm a little confused by Renogy's page on that 200W panel, they suggest it has USB output, which would require a controller.
I was wondering the same thing. I read it to mean that if you wanted to connect it using solar connectors or power pole, you'd have to have the controller. Hope I'm misreading it.
 
make sure your existing solar panel (if any) has similar voltage specs, specifically, around 19-20V open circuit voltage, 16-17V at max output.

I'm a little confused by Renogy's page on that 200W panel, they suggest it has USB output, which would require a controller.
Thanks

I'm going to hold off until the spring when I can properly test everything in temps above -20
 
Hmmm, are you sure about that? Two thoughts just for consideration ....
  1. All other things being equal, partial shading seems to have a much greater effect on panel current-output than panel voltage-output (see this article)
  2. All other things being equal, it seems that in a parallel-wired array a partially shaded panel does contribute to the current the string presents to the controller, albeit less current than the unshaded panels, with a net positive power result (source of diagrams here)
View attachment 1950012
In General -

In the parallel situation shown above, the shaded panel can't put out 17.5 volts. Assuming it has bypass diodes and 2 strings of cells, it will only put out 8.75 volts if only one string of cells is shaded. How you combine 8.75 volts with 17.5 volts and 17.5 volts in parallel to the charge controller is the question. The voltage at the solar charge controller will be pulled to the lowest voltage of 8.75 volts. 8.75 volts x 5.8 amps = 50 watts. Not 255.5 watts.

In the series situation shown above, the half-shaded panel will bypass the 5.8 amps of current and add the voltages of the 3 panels (8.75+17.5+17.5) which gives 43.75 volts. 250 watts
 
I assume this one would do the trick. It's 200w, no controller and I just add the appropriate connector/adapter to plug into my Zamp after confirming polatiry?


Sorry if this question seems simple to many, I'm a solar dummy.
As others have pointed out, connecting a portable remote panel to the same controller that you're using for your rooftop panels, will not be optimal.

However you can realize some huge benefits from a portable remote panel like you've suggested, if you were to add a separate MPPT controller between the zamp port and battery bank.

Something like this Victron model should handle the 200watt remote panel:

 
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"The voltage at the solar charge controller will be pulled to the lowest voltage of 8.75 volts."

Not true if the solar panel with the lower voltage has a blocking diode.
What really happens is that the lower voltage panel just does not supply wattage.
Somehow this "pull down" myth keeps living on and on...

Good explanation here.
 
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I was wondering the same thing. I read it to mean that if you wanted to connect it using solar connectors or power pole, you'd have to have the controller. Hope I'm misreading it.

ok, i went over the manual, the 200W (but not the 400W) Renogy comes with a 'junction box' that has the USB regulators/controllers. Seems a little silly, as a 200W panel is way bigger than you need for a couple USB ports and if you have a proper solar controller, 12V to USB is easy on the side
 
"The voltage at the solar charge controller will be pulled to the lowest voltage of 8.75 volts."

Not true if the solar panel with the lower voltage has a blocking diode.
What really happens is that the lower voltage panel just does not supply wattage.
Somehow this "pull down" myth keeps living on and on...

Good explanation here.
Where in the article does it say the controller will use the voltage of the highest voltage panel when a blocking diode is used? I can't find it. I would sure like to see a test of this. I have been told that if an MPPT solar charge controller is used, then the voltage will not be the lower voltage panel, but it will also not be the higher voltage panel. The only tests I

If what you say is true and the low voltage panel is not used then the output would be 200 watts, not 255.5 watts as shown in the article. Again, in a partially (1/2) shaded panel connected in series will outperform if the panels have 2 strings of cells each.

I have done quite a few tests with my 6 panels using series connections. In a series array of panels, if a panel is partially shaded so that one of its strings of cells is affected, then only that string of cells is bypassed from contributing to the array output. The shaded string of cells (1/2 the panel voltage in 2 string panel) does not contribute voltage to the array. The remaining panels continue to supply rated voltage.
 
I don't want to try and draw a schematic on my tablet, but if you connect two different voltage sources to a load with diodes, the diode on the lower voltage source will be reversed biased, and pass no current.
 
I assume this one would do the trick. It's 200w, no controller and I just add the appropriate connector/adapter to plug into my Zamp after confirming polatiry?


Sorry if this question seems simple to many, I'm a solar dummy.
I'm in a similar situation to you: little knowledge, considering a portable panel.

I have a small portable connected right now as a maintainer. It came with a small 8.5A controller which I have attached directly to the batteries. The main, roof-mounted panel beneath the trailer cover is still contributing some juice through the ETI-supplied GoPower controller.

Just from what I've picked up on this forum, for camping season I could optimize the 160W on the roof by switching to a MPPT controller. I could then run a portable to the GoPower controller for some additional charging but ideally another MPPT controller would be best, meaning the purchase of two MPPT controllers along with the portable panel.

If I understand correctly, having the two panels on two controllers results in a simple solution and would mean neither panel interferes with the other and both contribute to charging optimally.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
 
I use a Renogy (E.flex) 200w panel w/o a controller. I do run it through a Victron controller on-board and it works well. I did the controller install on my 19 and 21c but ETI did the pre-wire. I don't have an additional panel to worry about however. This is for my SAE port.
 
I have a small portable connected right now as a maintainer. It came with a small 8.5A controller which I have attached directly to the batteries.
I do something similar. My portable is a 130watt GoPower with a controller which I connect to a pigtail on my battery bank. Easy Peasy.
 
I don't want to try and draw a schematic on my tablet, but if you connect two different voltage sources to a load with diodes, the diode on the lower voltage source will be reversed biased, and pass no current.
Glad you said something. I just cited a common myth(?) that combining different voltages in parallel results in the system operating at the lowest voltage. I did this because the sketch was so misleading that I decided to be outrageous too.

I do understand how shaded panels operate in series because I have experimented with shading of panels connected in series connected to an MPPT SCC.
 
Ok, now down to the dirty details...

I don't want to try and draw a schematic on my tablet, but if you connect two different voltage sources to a load with diodes, the diode on the lower voltage source will be reversed biased, and pass no current.

Unfortunately, trying to model a solar charging system in real life is very messy.

Start with the solar panel: It generates power using what is essentially a photo-sensitive diode(s) which have a nominal "ideal" voltage and an internal resistance in series. Then the load: A range of ideal voltages, in, and out, plus an internal resistance of its own. Then throw in a variable amount of sun, changing perhaps minute by minute, plus a variable load as the batteries go from discharged to charged. And finally, if a MPPT controller is used, add in a computer with a load optimization algorithm that is only known to the manufacturer. There is very little that can be said about this messy mix that is true all the time.

But some simple assumptions can be made. For example, John's diode example is quite true - up to the point that the load (our discharged battery with controller) pulls more current from the higher voltage panel than optimum. Once the voltage on the "in" side of the controller drops below the open circuit voltage of the lower voltage panel then current will flow out of its diode and will contribute to the total wattage. The point being that both panels will provide power under some circumstances. An MPPT controller will muddy the analysis to the point that only measuring with amp meters will find out the full picture.

So I will state my position again: A second, but mismatched panel with a blocking diode, in parallel, can only help - under the right circumstances, but will not hurt the system. But not necessarily the best use of your $$.
 
I'm in a similar situation to you: little knowledge, considering a portable panel.

I have a small portable connected right now as a maintainer. It came with a small 8.5A controller which I have attached directly to the batteries. The main, roof-mounted panel beneath the trailer cover is still contributing some juice through the ETI-supplied GoPower controller.

Just from what I've picked up on this forum, for camping season I could optimize the 160W on the roof by switching to a MPPT controller. I could then run a portable to the GoPower controller for some additional charging but ideally another MPPT controller would be best, meaning the purchase of two MPPT controllers along with the portable panel.

If I understand correctly, having the two panels on two controllers results in a simple solution and would mean neither panel interferes with the other and both contribute to charging optimally.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
You are correct. Two solar panels, two MPPT controllers = maximum power delivery from each panel.
You can have one MPPT controller and one PWM controller, but the panel connected to the PWM controller will be less efficient. It will not affect the panel with the MPPT controller.
 
I'm in a similar situation to you: little knowledge, considering a portable panel.

I have a small portable connected right now as a maintainer. It came with a small 8.5A controller which I have attached directly to the batteries. The main, roof-mounted panel beneath the trailer cover is still contributing some juice through the ETI-supplied GoPower controller.

Just from what I've picked up on this forum, for camping season I could optimize the 160W on the roof by switching to a MPPT controller. I could then run a portable to the GoPower controller for some additional charging but ideally another MPPT controller would be best, meaning the purchase of two MPPT controllers along with the portable panel.

If I understand correctly, having the two panels on two controllers results in a simple solution and would mean neither panel interferes with the other and both contribute to charging optimally.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
I may do something similar as it looks to be a simple swap, doesn't break the bank and will fix the Wi-Fi issue with Escape installed GoPower which never seems to work. Plus it sounds like the Victron is much more efficient with the existing roof mounted solar panel.

My plan would be to start with just removing the GoPower and installing the Victron in its place and see how that goes. I won't worry about the Zamp port for now as it isn't really needed in our camping style at the moment, it was just something I was looking to do as a learning project....which I am still learning.

Am I safe in assuming the 100/30 controller will be suitable for my setup (currently 2x6v batteries, 190 roof panel and zamp port currently wired to the controller?

My trailer isn't with me right now, but if I remove the GoPower, which has an external display, under the dining room bench, what are people using to patch it cosmetically? The Victron doesn't have a display and would mount in the storage area under the bench seat, leaving a hole.

It will be a spring project, along with replacing my Maxxfan board. So I have time to confirm everything.
 
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