Propane Tank area very tight - how about this?

breeves2245

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2016
Messages
118
Location
Bella Vista, AR
Based on another thread idea, I took out the side panels in my new 5.0 to get better access to the propane tanks. Worked great. The propane storage is a very tight space and it's a bear to get channel locks on the tank valve to snug it tighter than I can get by hand. Can't rotate the tanks due to the short connecting hose.

Didn't like the idea of removing the panels that look like they also block any possible gases to the inside cavity.

I know propane is heavier than air and not likely to float up but still.

How about this solution? Put the panels back and get slightly longer propane hoses from the diverter to the tank valve? If I can rotate the tanks around just 90 degrees that would solve the no room to get the wrench on the tank valve issue.

I have no use for more storage, solo traveler and travel very light on the camping related items.
 
Thats exactly what the panels do, stop the possiblity of propane getting into ther trailer. Yes replace them for your saftey.
I agree removing and replacing the tanks is difficult and every year gets worse.
Didn't like the idea of removing the panels that look like they also block any possible gases to the inside cavity.
 
Plus 3 on not using tools to tighten the valve.

The usual situation for enclosed propane tanks on boats is to have a drain in the bottom of the enclosure. Out of curiosity, does the 5.0 have drains in the propane enclosure?

Ron
 
Plus 3 on not using tools to tighten the valve.

The usual situation for enclosed propane tanks on boats is to have a drain in the bottom of the enclosure. Out of curiosity, does the 5.0 have drains in the propane enclosure?

Ron
Wasn't sure myself so I took a look. Yes there is a hole in the bottom bracket area and underneath is about a 4" flex hose leading straight down.
 
Yes there is a hole in the bottom bracket area and underneath is about a 4" flex hose leading straight down.
(y)

Drain tube and propane heavier than air notwithstanding, I urge that you maintain the sealed isolating panels between the propane compartment and the adjacent jack compartments. The jack motors themselves (brushes on armature) are a potential spark-ignition source. The isolation can be restored / maintained even if the panels are relocated farther outboard (BTDT).

Have Fun, Be Safe! :)
 
When I replaced my pigtails with longer braided hoses, it was not my intention to be able to tighten the connections on the tank to the point of damaging O-rings. Even though it provides easier access to the acme connections, I did it primarily to provide space to use GasStop leak preventers when running the refrigerator on propane while towing. The GasStop devices would not fit in the back and they require depressing the button 5 or 6 times to prime it after the tank has been shut off or an empty has been replaced with a full tank. With the failure of my Dametic absorption refrigerator (replaced with a 12 vdc Compressor model) and the fact that we not a cold weather campers so the furnace is almost never used, I have removed one of the two propane tanks and now use its space for additional storage.
 

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