Refrigerator Replacement

DavidEwo

New Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2020
Posts
4
Location
Madison
Recently had to replace our original Dometic triple-fuel refrigerator in our 17B. After looking at options and pros/cons, we selected a Vitrofrigo dual (AC/DC) model of similar size. My question is what we should do with the exterior (high/low) vents, which I assume were there for LP operation? Not concerned with seeing vents outside, but can/should we cover them up from interior since new unit is not LP.
 
I would leave them be, as even a compressor fridge builds up heat and can fail from that buildup. I am a Chef, 40 years in kitchens, some as an owner, seen many refrigerators fail due to lack of ventilation.
 
Most 12V compressor refrigerators are vented from the front, thereby don't need rear venting. Also, 12V compressor refrigerators do not isolate the rear compartment from the front section, allowing outside air to come through the exterior vents into the living space. I had this problem, and simply taped plastic over the inside of the exterior vents. That eliminated surprisingly large drafts coming out from under the refrigerator. Since the plastic film is not airtight, there is still some ventilation in the refrigerator rear compartment.
 
Respectfully disagree, Manufacturers constantly underestimate (warranty period) the amount of ventilation(cooling) the compressor needs. I would worry more about this, and also remind you that you need to always have some fresh air in your rv to prevent condensation, and suffocation.
 
also remind you that you need to always have some fresh air in your rv to prevent condensation, and suffocation.
I think the most folks would rather control the amount of cold air coming in, especially in very cold conditions.

Ron
 
Recently had to replace our original Dometic triple-fuel refrigerator in our 17B. After looking at options and pros/cons, we selected a Vitrofrigo dual (AC/DC) model of similar size. My question is what we should do with the exterior (high/low) vents, which I assume were there for LP operation? Not concerned with seeing vents outside, but can/should we cover them up from interior since new unit is not LP.
Hi David,

I was (and still am, if that Dometic gives me just one more excuse) considering a Virtrifrigo model for a replacement in my 5.0, and I have considered how to install it.

First, it does need ventilation. Not necessarily to the outside air, but the heat from the compressor has to go somewhere for efficient operation. The Virtrifrigo AC/DC models I looked at, do not have any built in ventilation like some other brands (no front grill).

If it's vented inside, you could block of the existing grills. If you have the space, I would consider moisture sealing, and then rigid foam insulation to reduce outside temperature influence. The recommendation for side venting is an input and output opening, each of about 25 sq in.

Venting it outside is my preference, and the existing openings in my 5.0 exceed the requirements for back venting as shown in the attached Virtrifrigo installation diagram. The fridge can still be sealed around the perimeter, exactly as the original, to prevent drafts from the outside vents. I would still use insulation on non vented outside surfaces to prevent heating of the cavity from the outside.

This was/is my plan anyway. I would be interested in your experience with the new fridge when you've had a chance to try it out.

Cheers,
John
 

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Our Escape installed Dometic just failed in our 2022 21C. No longer under warranty. What replacements are people using in this type of situation? I know nothing about refridgerators. I see mention of compressor fridges, 3 way ( I get this, AC/DC/LP) and I would like to keep that flexibility. Any make or model recommendations out there? Or is the best option to just head up to Escape and have them swap it out for four a Norcold 7 ( just AC/DC, no LP)about $2600 Canadian? Wouldn't mind upgrading it either. Thank you.
 
I think LP power is essential if you're not camped where you have shore power. But we don't have near enough battery/solar power to run a fridge on 12V. Maybe you do.
 
I think LP power is essential if you're not camped where you have shore power. But we don't have near enough battery/solar power to run a fridge on 12V. Maybe you do.
Times have changed. Many folks are running compressor type fridges since the cost of lithium batteries and solar panels has come down so much.

Ron
 
Whether a LP or 12V compressor refrigerator is 'best' depends on your style of camping and your trailer equipment.

If you like boondocking, a 12V compressor refrigerator will run your batteries down very quickly without solar panels or a generator. A LP refrigerator will run a long time on one tank of propane.

If you generally camp with hookups, a 12V refrigerator may be your better choice. A 12V refrigerator gets cold faster, stays cold on the hottest days, generally has more interior space than a comparably sized LP refrigerator, and allows you to shut off the propane at the tanks while driving.

If you have solar panels and you have multiple batteries and you only dry camp for a day or two, or if you only camp with hookups, a 12V compressor refrigerator will work well. Otherwise, a LP refrigerator may be your better choice.

I have a 8 cu/ft 12V compressor refrigerator. I also boondock. I have 300 Ah of Lithium batteries and 200W of solar panels. Camping in sunny areas, my setup will run for over a week before the batteries need supplemental charging. Camping in a shady spot, my setup will run 2-3 days before needing supplemental charging. I am considering adding another solar panel but overall am very satisfied with the setup.
 
One more question - compressor vs gas absorption? Why or why not? Remember, I am the ignorant type.
Since you are asking serious questions, I have a hard time believing you are the "ignorant type".

My #1 reason for a compressor fridge: No more melted ice cream. Reasons #2 - #10 were mentioned above. :giggle:

But the price to pay included a major upgrade to the battery storage (600 AH) and an additional upgrade to my existing solar. The 500 watts of solar was able to recharge to 100% by 2 PM down in Big Bend in late Feburary. And since more was apparently better, I now have real toaster prepared toast instead of campfire singed whole wheat carbon. Gosh, will battery powered A/C be next? Its a slippery slope, this power curve.
 
My #1 reason for a compressor fridge: No more melted ice cream.
Can't agree on that. The fridge in my 19, yes, it was temperamental. The fridge in my 21 is perfect and I couldn't ask for it to be better. Does what its supposed to do. My ice cream never melts. :)

Ron
 
Had the Dometic RMD 10.5X had not been temporarily discontinued when we were looking, I would seriously have looked at that as a replacement.
 
Since you are asking serious questions, I have a hard time believing you are the "ignorant type".

My #1 reason for a compressor fridge: No more melted ice cream. Reasons #2 - #10 were mentioned above. :giggle:

But the price to pay included a major upgrade to the battery storage (600 AH) and an additional upgrade to my existing solar. The 500 watts of solar was able to recharge to 100% by 2 PM down in Big Bend in late Feburary. And since more was apparently better, I now have real toaster prepared toast instead of campfire singed whole wheat carbon. Gosh, will battery powered A/C be next? Its a slippery slope, this power curve.
Many of us are running solar/battery powered AC and heat pumps using mini split units. We’ve gone 5 weeks without plugging in to shore power doing both cooling and heating, as well as the fridge and other electric draws. 1200 watts of solar panels and 400 AH.
I don’t think I’ll buy a toaster however.
 
In our yet to be built 17B we were told they now have compressor fridges. they said it is a model NRX11305 which appears to be a dometic. I think it is 4.5 cuft. Couldn't find that exact model in a search. Seems likely that would drop in the space of your old absorption fridge.
 
On the exterior vents, I have the factory installed compressor fridge with exterior vents deleted. I seriously doubt ETI would sell a product configured in a way knowing that it would cause their fridge to fail without venting. So, if I was installing a compressor fridge that vented into the trailer I would seal the outside vents from the inside for reasons already stated. YMMV
 

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