Removal of Lithium Batteries

TranquiLiza

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2022
Posts
11
Location
Twin Cities
Hi all!

I have looked on Facebook and searched forums but I am struggling to find a post that states details on step by step for removing lithium batteries from the trailer.

We live in MN and I called Escape and they told me I should remove them and bring them inside as the trailer is not stored in temperature controlled spot. This is our first winter with our 5.0 so everything is new! Full disclosure - I am not handy so I am very nervous removing batteries. I know it seems dumb to many as it is probably an easy process for most but is there anything I should know before doing this?

Any help would be greatly greatly appreciated!
 
Watching thread.. I’d be interested in answers. I’ve heard you either need to install a solar disconnect switch or cover your solar panels while disconnecting the battery.
 
I should add that the trailer is stored inside so solar panels are covered by roof. It is in a shed that is not heated or insulated at all.
 
I’d still put a heavy dark blanket over the panels, it
Doesn’t take much light To create current. I would take a picture of the cable setup before I started . Then I would get or make sure I had number stickers ( masking tape and a pen) and make notes on what went to what and the numbers I put on the connections. Take a picture of the hookup before you start removing bolts. You’ll need a couple flat wrenches, box end/ open end. Since I don’t know the bolt sizes I’d take 7/16, 1/2 and 9/16 along. And maybe heaven forbid, an 8 inch crescent wrench. Once the cable bolts are loose, carefully lift the batteries out and you should be good to go. A battery strap would help you carry them or a battery box to set them in.
Take your time and take notes and pictures.
Full disclosure : I’ve removed batteries for 60 years but
Not from an Escape 5.0. But I have stayed in a Holiday inn.
Iowa Dave
 
Last edited:
I’d still put a heavy dark blanket over the panels...
Perhaps an easier alternative - up there in the north country - Twin Cities - you have about 16 hours of night time this time of year. So, inside that shed, at night, I bet its as dark as a cave. No loose photons to knock electrons out of their orbits. Obviously take a flashlight, and perhaps a friend to hold it.

The other side of the disconnects story - turn everything off in the trailer that is reachable. Don't worry about little things like the USB charging ports, propane detector, etc. They are small potatoes. But use your battery disconnect switch at least to de-power most everything else.

Finally, be careful with your metal tools. To be ultra safe, put a towel over the battery terminals that you are not actively in the process of disconnecting. A short circuit might ruin your day (or in the case of Lithium batteries, your credit card).

Finally, write a note on your batteries describing where that safe place was that you stored those photos you took at the beginning.
 
Thank you all so much for the tips! I am off to try and do this today. I sure wish I didn't wait to do this until it was 18 degrees out but lesson learned not to procrastinate so much next year!!
 
After you remove the batteries now would be an ideal time to install a solar disconnect breaker. It’s cheap and really takes very little time. Explorist life YouTube channel will give you a step by step instruction. It took me less than an hour; I covered the panels, unhooked the battery positive connection, identified where I was mounting the disconnect breaker, cut the positive wire, added a couple of ferrules and inserted the breaker in line and mounted it on one of the support beams under the seat. The ferrules were not necessary but makes a neat connection. This was in a 21 c so it should be somewhat similar to your setup. I put the disconnect just before the feed into the solar controller so there would be no unloaded voltage into the device. Really diy or an hour for a competent electrician. The breaker was 50 or so if I remember and the mount box was maybe 15. I didn’t need the box where I mounted it.
The video is quite informative and step by step, especially with your batteries out, it’s a great time to add another electric safety disconnect
 
This is what I received from Dustin on this.

—————————————————————————————————————————-
If there is a chance of freezing the batteries should be removed from the trailer and stored where they will not freeze.

The solar panel can be covered, or you may also disconnect a wire at the rear of the solar controller to prevent any power from getting to the controller. See attached photo showing the rear of the controller.
—————————————————————————————————————————-

So many different ways to go, I suppose because there’s many different setups people have.
With my magic wand I’d get the top 5 people with the needed skills on here to come up with the best ways for the 5 or so most common setups.

But Catman David picks those 5-by far the most liked on here so all will be good…
 

Attachments

  • E872EA7D-3715-4254-9D5E-E721EF0D9B64.jpg
    E872EA7D-3715-4254-9D5E-E721EF0D9B64.jpg
    181.2 KB · Views: 54
This is what I received from Dustin on this.
...
Two observations on the above:
First, up north in the Twin Cities, it is likely to get below -20F, the absolute lower limit for most RV Lithium batteries.
Second, up north in the Twin Cities at -20F, you are not going to get 5 volunteers to come up in mid-winter.
 
I did mention this also, but perhaps it is worth mentioning again.

This will be the second winter that I will be pushing the envelope with respect to Lithium battery storage.

First, I am leaving them in the trailer stored outside, in Denver, all winter. Expected lowest winter temperature is around -15F.

Second, they are totally disconnected from charging power and any possible load (using switches).


Third, my solar is still connected to both the solar panel and to the trailer load (regular Escape provided disconnect switch is "On".) The load in this case is a bunch of LED lights left in the "On" position. I might be adding a solar cutoff this winter - or might not get around to it.

I got away with it last winter. Will report back in April...
 
This is what I received from Dustin on this.

—————————————————————————————————————————-
If there is a chance of freezing the batteries should be removed from the trailer and stored where they will not freeze.

The solar panel can be covered, or you may also disconnect a wire at the rear of the solar controller to prevent any power from getting to the controller. See attached photo showing the rear of the controller.

Thanks for the tip! I am not confident we will be able to cover panels with the way it is stored like tetris right now in a big shed. May be dumb question, but which wire would I disconnect from that picture? I am not with the trailer so maybe it is obvious when looking at it in person
 
The solar panel can be covered, or you may also disconnect a wire at the rear of the solar controller to prevent any power from getting to the controller. See attached photo showing the rear of the controller.
—————————————————————————————————————————-
Which solar wire? Does it matter?
 
Based on the following, I think it will be fine to leave our Lithium battery in the trailer over winter here in Vancouver. We get a couple of days of snow each winter.

https://support.gpelectric.com/kb/article/29-long-term-storage/

Long Term Storage
Jun 17, 2022

Storage Instructions

If your RV will be stored in extremely cold climates you may need to remove your batteries to prevent them from freezing. Please note if your solar panel(s) are covered by snow they will not produce power and can not be depended upon to keep the batteries topped up. In mild climate storage you can depend upon your solar system to top up your batteries when they are exposed to sunlight. Make sure that all parasitic draws are removed from the batteries i.e. Propane detector, clock radio, etc to make sure the solar panel(s) can keep the batteries topped up even with reduced sun exposure.
 
Which solar wire? Does it matter?

They didn’t say, but I’m sure Vermlye is correct.
I was checking out some old threads on here and this switch was recommended by some. It’s on its way.
 

Attachments

  • CFA980F5-F4CD-4AA0-AB58-1D3D5EAF5823.jpg
    CFA980F5-F4CD-4AA0-AB58-1D3D5EAF5823.jpg
    163.9 KB · Views: 79
After you remove the batteries now would be an ideal time to install a solar disconnect breaker. It’s cheap and really takes very little time. Explorist life YouTube channel will give you a step by step instruction. It took me less than an hour; I covered the panels, unhooked the battery positive connection, identified where I was mounting the disconnect breaker, cut the positive wire, added a couple of ferrules and inserted the breaker in line and mounted it on one of the support beams under the seat. The ferrules were not necessary but makes a neat connection. This was in a 21 c so it should be somewhat similar to your setup. I put the disconnect just before the feed into the solar controller so there would be no unloaded voltage into the device. Really diy or an hour for a competent electrician. The breaker was 50 or so if I remember and the mount box was maybe 15. I didn’t need the box where I mounted it.
The video is quite informative and step by step, especially with your batteries out, it’s a great time to add another electric safety disconnect
Explorist Life's "How To Wire A Solar Disconnect........".

If you want to wait until spring, like others here said, just disconnect one of the panel wires to your controller and put a wire nut on the exposed wire.

I'm up in the Cities all the time, but since I had a new pacemaker installed last week I won't be able to help with the actual install until next spring. Just remove one wire for the time being.

I'd prefer to talk on the phone, so if you're interested PM me your phone number or I'll PM you mine.

Enjoy,

Perry
 
Explorist Life's "How To Wire A Solar Disconnect........".

If you want to wait until spring, like others here said, just disconnect one of the panel wires to your controller and put a wire nut on the exposed wire.

I'm up in the Cities all the time, but since I had a new pacemaker installed last week I won't be able to help with the actual install until next spring. Just remove one wire for the time being.

I'd prefer to talk on the phone, so if you're interested PM me your phone number or I'll PM you mine.

Enjoy,

Perry

Best wishes on the electronic ticker regulator.
Always good advice from Perry by the way
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom